Which wire?

Mikeybikey57

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Oct 21, 2012
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Chesterfield, Derbyshire UK
I've just ordered myself an LED light bar for my S10 and am looking to wire it up so that it comes on with the main beam only. After looking at a lighting circuit wiring diagram, It looks like I need to tap into the L/B (Light Blue?) wire between the headlight relay and the headlight shutter mechanism, to trigger the relay that I plan to use. I've also looked at the threads relating to this particular mod but came away more confused, as some folk seem to have different ideas about to which wire to tap into.

I'd really appreciate some advice and opinions from folk who have actually done the mod and any perceived benefits/drawbacks of having the light coming on with main beam, rather than separately switched. :-\
 

TheHelios

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Dallas, TX
For clarification, what do you mean by "so that it comes on with the main beam only"? Do you mean the lights would only be active when not just the key is turned to ON but the engine is running as well?
 

Mikeybikey57

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Yep. I'm looking at the wiring it up so that light comes on when the engine is running and the headlights are switched onto high beam/flash only. I was looking at the option of having it switched but I already have enough clutter on my bars and i'd need the left thumb of an orangutan to reach any more buttons. ::)
 

SilverBullet

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Harmaston, TX
Mikeybikey57 said:
...
I'd really appreciate some advice and opinions from folk who have actually done the mod and any perceived benefits/drawbacks of having the light coming on with main beam, rather than separately switched. :-\
I thought long and hard about this as well. My decision was to separately switch it. This $20 handlebar switch from Eastern Beaver fits perfectly on existing bar space next to handgrip without having to move anything and looks OEM.


Pros:
  • You can reach it with your thumb to use as a flash to pass warning.
    Works with either low or high beams.
    Light can operate without engine running but key power to ignition switch so it can never be left on.
    LED is a low current draw so can be safely used as aux light, i.e. camp setup at night, map light, repairs, etc.
    No splicing into existing headlight wiring thus no relay is required (one thing less to fail).

Cons:
  • Separate switch but that can be a Pro also
 

djm_ct

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Mar 23, 2012
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New Milford, Connecticut
Most people just tap into the pink wire that feeds the high beams to trigger your relay.

I used the pink wire routed through the Eastern Beaver switch that SilverBullet mentioned to the relay for the light bar.
That way the light bar can only come on when the high beams are on AND you have the option of switching them on or off as well.
 

djm_ct

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I think i recall reading on this forum somewhere that the wiring diagram lists it as Red, even though it's pink. i could be wrong.
You can find it in the headlight wiring harness.
 

BaldKnob

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I just recently installed my Rigid 6" LED bar and wired it to the high beam switch. You'll find the pink wire behind the right-side fairing cover (above the battery/fuse panel cover) nestled in the bundle of wires that are exiting the headlight assembly. This seems to be the easiest way to wire up accessory lights. Pink wire activates the Radio Shack relay, which will energize the lights. I mounted the relay in the area where the pink wire is found. Good luck.
 

Mikeybikey57

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A really big THANK YOU to all of you that took the trouble to respond. I think i'll fit the light and switch it to begin with, as it would be better to have the option. I'll post up the results as soon as i'm done. ::008:: ::008:: ::008::
 

Niterunnr

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Irvine, CA
I just recently installed my Rigid 6" LED bar and wired it to the high beam switch. You'll find the pink wire behind the right-side fairing cover (above the battery/fuse panel cover) nestled in the bundle of wires that are exiting the headlight assembly. This seems to be the easiest way to wire up accessory lights. Pink wire activates the Radio Shack relay, which will energize the lights. I mounted the relay in the area where the pink wire is found. Good luck.
Super tenere high beam trigger wire on 2018ES is pink coming out of the forward facing side of connector.
EECEF967-A05B-4C49-96B0-367DBE6B9BBE.jpeg
 
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BadNews

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Central Ohio, USA
OK, good to know. I'm trying to take note of these wires because extra lights is on my farkle "To Do" list. Thanks.
 

Niterunnr

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Fixed photo.
Deleted my post after reviewing JJTJ2 photo; checked the relays in the shot. I tapped the upper connector where the loom goes into the cockpit behind the fake intake as BaldKnob suggested. So pink wire is on top and blue option is lower down as JJTJ2 showed.
Wired my aux lights to relay with hi beam trigger. So much light!!!
 
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JJTJ2

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Aug 14, 2018
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Lake of the Ozarks, Missouri
Can you tell me more about activating the GDO with the Highbeams? I want to do something integrated like that
Sounds complicated but it really is very simple. I don't have any pics of the remote that I did but I did find the pics that I used from the NC700 forum.

First thing I did was find the smallest garage door opener that would work on my door. They are pretty cheap on Ebay. Make sure that it is 12v since that is what the motorcycle will be using. When you get it, put the battery in and program it to operate your door. Make sure you test it.

Then take the opener apart and use a soldering iron to remove the door opener button and the terminals where the battery goes. I used a Sharpie to mark positive and negative on the circuitboard where the battery connected. (My opener only had one button) Then solder a jumper wire between any two diagonal contacts of where the button was. Use a digital multimeter to verify that it is the diagonals on the button that are activating the door. Then solder a red lead to the positive terminal and a black lead to the negative terminals of the garage door opener. I used a little bit of heat shrink around where the leads come out of the garage door opener to hold the leads together. remote2.jpgremote3.jpg
I then put the garage door opener back together and caulked the seams, where the leads come out, and around the button to make it weather proof. I then tapped the positive lead to the blue high beam wire and the negative lead to the black lead in the same wire loom.Remote1.JPGI used Gorilla tape to hold it in place as shown in the last pic.
 

max.arioli

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Mar 22, 2020
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Location
North West Arkansas
Sounds complicated but it really is very simple. I don't have any pics of the remote that I did but I did find the pics that I used from the NC700 forum.

First thing I did was find the smallest garage door opener that would work on my door. They are pretty cheap on Ebay. Make sure that it is 12v since that is what the motorcycle will be using. When you get it, put the battery in and program it to operate your door. Make sure you test it.

Then take the opener apart and use a soldering iron to remove the door opener button and the terminals where the battery goes. I used a Sharpie to mark positive and negative on the circuitboard where the battery connected. (My opener only had one button) Then solder a jumper wire between any two diagonal contacts of where the button was. Use a digital multimeter to verify that it is the diagonals on the button that are activating the door. Then solder a red lead to the positive terminal and a black lead to the negative terminals of the garage door opener. I used a little bit of heat shrink around where the leads come out of the garage door opener to hold the leads together. View attachment 67109View attachment 67110
I then put the garage door opener back together and caulked the seams, where the leads come out, and around the button to make it weather proof. I then tapped the positive lead to the blue high beam wire and the negative lead to the black lead in the same wire loom.View attachment 67111I used Gorilla tape to hold it in place as shown in the last pic.
Okay, that all makes sense and sounds easy, but how do you trigger it with the high beams?
 
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