What you did to your Tenere today??!!

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ballisticexchris

Guest
I just finished up yesterday with a full service on mine. Because of being injured it took almost a week and close to 20 hours to do in 30-60 minute increments. Any kind of activity other than rest has my body screaming in pain after 30 minutes or so.

Full 6,000 mile service at 5578 miles

Rear brakes disassemble, measure, inspect, clean, lube sliders
Outside pad upper 4.53mm
Inside pad 4.45mm
Rear pad wear limit .8mm
Rotor thickness 4.97mm
Rear rotor wear limit 4.5mm
Rear rotor runout limit .15mm

Front brakes disassemble, measure, inspect, clean, smooth out pin
RF outside pad 4.43mm
RF inside pad 4.30mm
LF outside pad 4.47mm
LF inside pad 4.30mm
RF outside pad 4.43mm
RF inside pad 4.30mm
Front pad wear limit .5mm
Left rotor 4.46mm
Right rotor 4.43mm
Front rotor wear limit 4mm
Front rotor runout limit .10mm
All pad measurements taken from middle of pad

Spark plug replacement
Air filter replacement
Check coils ohm rating
#1 primary 1.5-1.6, secondary 9.94
#2 primary 1.5-1.6, secondary 9.90
#3 primary 1.5-1.6, secondary 9.98
#4 primary 1.5-1.6, secondary 9.76
Primary range spec: 1.19-1.61 ohms
Secondary range spec 8.5-11.5 ohms


Mount/balance/check spokes new Michelin Road 5 tires
Check rear wheel runout aprox 1.5mm, front wheel runout less than 1mm (2mm limit)
Rotor runout front/rear almost zero
Put a torque wrench on all the spokes. First time all were tight. Finally bedded in!!

Inspect wheel bearings, grease under seal lip and axle
Inspect, clean/lubricate hub sleeves and rear gear
Pull pumpkin, clean/lube splines and gears
Replace diff oil
Inspect steering head bearings
Inspect fork bushings (right one has a small amount of play)
Install wheels front and rear

Synchronize throttle bodies (open right reference to 3/4 turn)
Check throttle free play (no free play per my preference)
Lubricate, kick/center stands, shifter/rear brake shafts, clutch/brake lever pivot pins

My only slight concern is the right fork bushing. I beat up the bike off road pretty hard in October. So I imagine that's what contributed to the accelerated wear. I'm going to get a full suspension service at around 10,000 miles as per suspension shop's recommendation.

19321B70-C2AA-4530-825B-8B24FEDF0F13.jpeg213D1075-DDFD-40EF-AFBB-B375B7DBD5DC.jpeg327F4BE9-A169-45B5-AA16-588768BF4878.jpeg59E4AE2A-A321-4793-B946-3FB287E62CF8.jpeg
 
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moto.monk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2019
Messages
1,090
Location
los angeles
Change air pressure to 33 to 36 on my front tire after riding it on 33 since I bought it. Well what it difference it made and the bike felt more stable, better flick and suspension was more responsive. I know its recommend that you use the factory settings. But after looking at YouTube videos and one good Dave moss video on psi that's a ride pressure base a few factors then just the bike alone. If anyone get shed light on this that would be great. The tire atm is a road smart 2 and I'm running a road attack 3 rear. I know its miss matched and I get my new front in 2 days.
 
B

ballisticexchris

Guest
Change air pressure to 33 to 36 on my front tire after riding it on 33 since I bought it. Well what it difference it made and the bike felt more stable, better flick and suspension was more responsive. I know its recommend that you use the factory settings. But after looking at YouTube videos and one good Dave moss video on psi that's a ride pressure base a few factors then just the bike alone. If anyone get shed light on this that would be great. The tire atm is a road smart 2 and I'm running a road attack 3 rear. I know its miss matched and I get my new front in 2 days.
If the new tire pressure works and feels better it's a win. I have been running 32F and 36R for so long on my street bikes I'm used to it. With the modern tires nowadays we can play with pressures a lot more without the fear of tire failure. Sounds like you have a fantastic combination of tires on your bike.

I polished my bike up with Honda Original today and wanted to cry for not being able to ride it!!

BE0A7981-BDF8-4CF9-B880-12B1F8D1792F.jpeg
 

bimota

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2017
Messages
6,521
Location
bridgend, Wales, UK
Put in a new air filter and after a year and a half with the front turn signals zip tied on i put new ones on. Now the rest of the bike looks like crap. Haha.
hi,
can i ask what crash bar bag that is, i,m swopping my sw motech bars for altriders like yours and looking for bags

rob
 
B

ballisticexchris

Guest
Spark plugs and air filter at 6k? Seems a bit early.

I wish some zealous mechanic lived around the corner from me, I could learn to do much more than I can....or pay him :)
I was a little early. OTOH, the plugs need to be pulled to check gap at 6,000 miles so I figured why not change the air filter at the same time. I might as well take some pride in my machine and keep it in the best shape as possible. At the same time I am learning about it so I can do roadside repairs instead of calling a flatbed.

The big bummer is my off roading of the bike has already started to wear out the right fork bushing (aprox 1.5mm or 1/16" of play at the fork lug). I will be keeping an eye on it and hope it lasts until 10,000 mile suspension service. Normally on a street bike the fork bushings last right around 10,000 miles before showing signs of wear. If my left fork begins to have play I'll take it in right away.
 

Cycledude

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2016
Messages
3,997
Location
Rib lake wi
Did I miss it or did you just ignore all the wheel bearings ? I spent a week in a motel in Montana because of a simple failed rear wheel bearing, now days I carry spare bearings just in case it ever happens again.

I just finished up yesterday with a full service on mine. Because of being injured it took almost a week and close to 20 hours to do in 30-60 minute increments. Any kind of activity other than rest has my body screaming in pain after 30 minutes or so.

Full 6,000 mile service at 5578 miles

Rear brakes disassemble, measure, inspect, clean, lube sliders
Outside pad upper 4.53mm
Inside pad 4.45mm
Rear pad wear limit .8mm
Rotor thickness 4.97mm
Rear rotor wear limit 4.5mm
Rear rotor runout limit .15mm

Front brakes disassemble, measure, inspect, clean, smooth out pin
RF outside pad 4.43mm
RF inside pad 4.30mm
LF outside pad 4.47mm
LF inside pad 4.30mm
RF outside pad 4.43mm
RF inside pad 4.30mm
Front pad wear limit .5mm
Left rotor 4.46mm
Right rotor 4.43mm
Front rotor wear limit 4mm
Front rotor runout limit .10mm
All pad measurements taken from middle of pad

Spark plug replacement
Air filter replacement
Check coils ohm rating
#1 primary 1.5-1.6, secondary 9.94
#2 primary 1.5-1.6, secondary 9.90
#3 primary 1.5-1.6, secondary 9.98
#4 primary 1.5-1.6, secondary 9.76
Primary range spec: 1.19-1.61 ohms
Secondary range spec 8.5-11.5 ohms


Mount/balance/check spokes new Michelin Road 5 tires
Check rear wheel runout aprox 1.5mm, front wheel runout less than 1mm (2mm limit)
Rotor runout front/rear almost zero
Put a torque wrench on all the spokes. First time all were tight. Finally bedded in!!

Inspect, clean/lubricate hub sleeves and rear gear
Pull pumpkin, clean/lube splines and gears
Replace diff oil
Inspect steering head bearings
Inspect fork bushings (right one has a small amount of play)
Install wheels front and rear

Synchronize throttle bodies (open right reference to 3/4 turn)
Check throttle free play (no free play per my preference)
Lubricate, kick/center stands, shifter/rear brake shafts, clutch/brake lever pivot pins

My only slight concern is the right fork bushing. I beat up the bike off road pretty hard in October. So I imagine that's what contributed to the accelerated wear. I'm going to get a full suspension service at around 10,000 miles as per suspension shop's recommendation.

View attachment 68615View attachment 68616View attachment 68617View attachment 68618
 
B

ballisticexchris

Guest
Did I miss it or did you just ignore all the wheel bearings ? I spent a week in a motel in Montana because of a simple failed rear wheel bearing, now days I carry spare bearings just in case it ever happens again.
I inspected all the wheel bearings. I was going to use my needle attachment to lube the "sealed unit". Decided to just grease the crap underneath the seal lip and axles. That is good advice on keeping a set of wheel bearings on hand. The bearings were still very tight with no play and rolled freely.
 

Boris

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2013
Messages
2,051
Location
midlands. UK
Did I miss it or did you just ignore all the wheel bearings ? I spent a week in a motel in Montana because of a simple failed rear wheel bearing, now days I carry spare bearings just in case it ever happens again.
Hi, what sort of mileage was that bearing failure at?

Ta
 

Cycledude

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2016
Messages
3,997
Location
Rib lake wi
Happened at 45,000 miles, it was the smallest bearing on the right side, the other 2 bearings seemed fine but I had all 3 replaced, the local Yamaha dealer said he had been waiting about a month for those bearings to arrive so luckily I found a set on eBay and ordered 2 sets of those So now I have spare set which I hopefully will never need. If I ever make another trip to Alaska I will most likely order a spare set for the front .

Hi, what sort of mileage was that bearing failure at?

Ta
 

cyclemike4

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2016
Messages
815
Location
ky
hi,
can i ask what crash bar bag that is, i,m swopping my sw motech bars for altriders like yours and looking for bags

rob
Hello Bimota. those are not crash bar bags. I am cheap i get cheap fanny packs and back packs to put on my bike. they hold up well and i have very little invested in them.
 
B

ballisticexchris

Guest
I moved some bags around and lightened up my tool pack. It's going to be a pavement queen. So tire irons, spare tubes and winch are removed unless going cross country. I still carry my HD carabiners, climbing rope, pulleys, and prussic line for recovery though.
 

elricfate

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2019
Messages
380
Location
Ohio
I moved some bags around and lightened up my tool pack. It's going to be a pavement queen. So tire irons, spare tubes and winch are removed unless going cross country. I still carry my HD carabiners, climbing rope, pulleys, and prussic line for recovery though.
Oh that's a solid idea. I never thought about heavy duty carabiners, pulleys and synthetic winch line (not climbing rope in my mind).
 

VRODE

Easy Does It
Joined
Aug 7, 2014
Messages
940
Location
Northern Vermont
Was thinking I was feeling a bit of a clunk in the front end at times. Usually when braking to a stop. Not all the time, but enough to make me doubt I was imagining it. Set about re-torquing the steering head bearings again.
All seemed good. A 30 min test ride and smooth steering and no clunks.Yay!
 

Jlq1969

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 5, 2018
Messages
1,749
Location
Argentina
It is published for sale. But ... its owner apparently is one of those who like the red zone of the tachometer and go with your knees to the floor, putting upward gears with the inverted shiftlever:)66165637-5910-4E99-B8FB-140174255C5A.jpeg728121FC-5BE1-48D6-A2FE-D156BD2B7820.jpeg
 
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