What you did to your Tenere today??!!

limey

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oregon-rider

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digitalmoto said:


I went out for an 'equipment test.' First, I played on a couple one-lane gravel roads in the Gorge. My larger plan was to continue my gravel/fire road practice, but I hit the snowline before I reached my target road. That's when I stopped to take this pic. What you can't see in this photo is how hard the rain was coming down. After being denied access, I headed back into the Gorge to get on I-84 east where I found standing water on the freeway followed by hail after crossing the Columbia at the Bridge of the Gods. At one point, it was raining hard enough that water was flowing down the inside of my visor. I couldn't keep it fog-free when it was closed and a single click up allowed water to pour in from the top. It really was raining that hard. <shrug> I live a couple hundred miles south of a temperate rain forest (Hoh Rain Forest on the Olympia Penn). It's Oregon. It's spring. Rain happens. I did get a couple glimpses of blue sky but I never found a place that didn't have rain during my 4 hour ride.
Everything that was supposed to be waterproof worked as advertised. The leather gloves I was wearing were soaked. My Sena helmet comm, GPS, and MP3 players worked without a hitch. (Even when my wife called to check to see if I was alive.) The TKC80s handle great in the slime/mud/loose gravel and I'm learning their limits on tarmc. I still need to fiddle with things before the summer road trip/gathering, but I have time for that.
I lucked out in eastern Oregon and just had to deal with a few snow flurries but they only lasted about ten minutes at a time. I like yourself hit the snow covered road four miles out of Imnaha on the way to hat point. I didn't feel like dumping my bike on the ice ::26::
 

EricV

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Digi- You need to go buy a Pin-Lock visor. It works. Glad you got out for a ride, but I'm not missing the PacNorWet right now. :D

Best thing is to install the Pin-Lock on a second visor. Keeps it from getting scratched up and it's usually faster to swap shields than fuss with installing the insert. Bonus, no chance of losing the pins that retain the insert. Up there, I just left the Pin-Lock visor on all winter and spring. The extra layer of plastic isn't horrible, though it's nice to go back to the regular visor when things warm up and dry out.
 

MurphCO

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took off the dumb silver canister guard dealio and painted it black




then went for a 250 mile ride



got home and ordered too much $$ in various Farkles
risers
twisted throttle drybag system
grip puppies
Corbin Seat
K&N Filter
Headlight guard
ABS Sensor guards
Rear brake fluid guard
sidestand foot attachment
led turn signals
22" windshield
swanky brackets for the shield
 

MurphCO

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avc8130 said:
MurphCO,

What did you use to paint it? Any special prep?

ac
just roughed it up with some fine grit sandpaper, and spray painted it. Took it on a nice ride after, and washed the bike that afternoon, its holding up fine.
 

dcstrom

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I have a Cee Baileys screen on my Strom. It's just a tad higher than the stock S10 screen but no turbulance. The difference may be in the "letterbox slot" that's cut into the lower part of the Cee Baileys. I figured I have nothing to lose by trying a similar slot on the stock S10 screen, since if I can't fix the turbulance it's getting replaced anyway.

Checkswrecks kindly offered to help me with it, since he's done a bit of work making screens before. The tidy part in the pics is his work, the ugly stuff is mine. When we'd finished with his part, we agreed it "passes the 10-foot test". Well now, it just about passes the 20-foot test! :D

It's hard to say if there is an improvement from a short ride around the beltway, but I get the sense that it's a bit smoother. I think most of the buffeting is coming off the sides rather than the top, and if that's the case this won't do much.

But if it does I have some ideas for cleaning this up and keeping the screen. It may be that I made the hole too big - I'm no expert but I get the feeling that velocity is more important than volume for the layer of air coming up the inside of the screen. So I'll ride for a while like this, play with the size of the hole, and report back. If it turns out to be a good mod I'm sure others can do a much neater job than me...





 

EricV

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Played around with a front fender raise today since I had my fender off to repair it. What do you guys think? 2" lift.





Also added 4 more rack bumpers since I don't use the pass seat.
 

Mike Sisson

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Paul, just be aware when (if) you buy them they do NOT come with the Yamaha factory wiring harness. Not a big deal to wire, just FYI. When I ordered them through a Yamaha dealer (as a Yamaha accessory) I assumed they would.
 

dcstrom

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Pretty ugly, but should do the job and a lot easier than doing the high mudgard thing.

Presumably you can only do this because you have 2 individual brake lines and don't have to worry about the crossover?

1" lift would probably look better - would it be enough? and be able to keep the stock hoses? (I think not).

EricV said:
Played around with a front fender raise today since I had my fender off to repair it. What do you guys think? 2" lift.
 

creggur

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Ordered my first farkles today! Calsci shorty tinted screen and the smaller rubber bobs to do the flat seat mod... Hopefully all will arrive before the weekend... ::012::
 

EricV

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dcstrom said:
Pretty ugly, but should do the job and a lot easier than doing the high mudgard thing.

Presumably you can only do this because you have 2 individual brake lines and don't have to worry about the crossover?

1" lift would probably look better - would it be enough? and be able to keep the stock hoses? (I think not).
Ugly=Functional :D And Yes, this can only be done with a 2 brake line kit. The cross over line prevents any fender raise at all, there just isn't slack in that line and you really, really don't want the brake line under the fender or flopping around in range of the tire, especially knobbies.

You may be right about a 1" lift looking better. In this set up the lower front bolt is attached at the upper stock location. It's the simple way to raise the fender and uses the most minimalist brackets. The rear brackets would be easy to shorten. On the front it gets more complicated. You don't really want to offset the fender forward or backward, so the oe fork bracket gets in the way of where the bolts would go.

For a 1" lift, I could fabricate a bracket that bolts to the oe one with shorter bolts, and has an offset pattern for the fender. It would need to be thicker, to allow the fender bolts to thread into it, and the bolts would have to be short enough to avoid going thru the new bracket, because the holes would effectively be 'blind' with the oe bracket blocking the back side.

I used steel for these, but could make some out of aluminum for the 1" lift.

Thanks for the input guys. ::008::
 

Don in Lodi

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EricV said:
Played around with a front fender raise today since I had my fender off to repair it. What do you guys think? 2" lift.





First blush, nope, too tall... but it might grow on me, give me a couple days, LOL. Now the Extenda would fit better!
Instead of blind holes and bolts just the right length, couldn't you drill thru and thru, new bracket through old bracket?
 

EricV

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Don in Lodi said:
Instead of blind holes and bolts just the right length, couldn't you drill thru and thru, new bracket through old bracket?
Well, that is possible, simply drill & tap a new hole for the lower bolt and add a short bracket for the upper. Two problems, if you're going to sell this to peeps, most will not want to drill and tap a new hole, and there's many ways to mess that up. Also, the new bracket will need to have some bends to be at the same level as the existing one. That makes the parts more expensive.
 

Checkswrecks

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EricV said:
Played around with a front fender raise today since I had my fender off to repair it. What do you guys think? 2" lift.




Also added 4 more rack bumpers since I don't use the pass seat.

I think it's a bit ugly but just what is needed for mud. As in heading north this summer!
 

Checkswrecks

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dcstrom said:
I have a Cee Baileys screen on my Strom. It's just a tad higher than the stock S10 screen but no turbulance. The difference may be in the "letterbox slot" that's cut into the lower part of the Cee Baileys. I figured I have nothing to lose by trying a similar slot on the stock S10 screen, since if I can't fix the turbulance it's getting replaced anyway.

Checkswrecks kindly offered to help me with it, since he's done a bit of work making screens before. The tidy part in the pics is his work, the ugly stuff is mine. When we'd finished with his part, we agreed it "passes the 10-foot test". Well now, it just about passes the 20-foot test! :D

It's hard to say if there is an improvement from a short ride around the beltway, but I get the sense that it's a bit smoother. I think most of the buffeting is coming off the sides rather than the top, and if that's the case this won't do much.

But if it does I have some ideas for cleaning this up and keeping the screen. It may be that I made the hole too big - I'm no expert but I get the feeling that velocity is more important than volume for the layer of air coming up the inside of the screen. So I'll ride for a while like this, play with the size of the hole, and report back. If it turns out to be a good mod I'm sure others can do a much neater job than me...






Wow Trevor, you really opened it up some more! What happened with your tuft testing?
It'll be interesting to see what you think over time. You could try taping over the hole and the remove the tape to see if there's a perceptible difference.
 
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