What the f#$% did I do? Rear wheel install

BuellOnYamaha

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May 10, 2020
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HI:
Couldn't find a thread that addressed this issue. I just changed my rear tire and reinstalled the wheel, then torqued the axel nut to 90 lb/ft, with the pinch bolt loose and a 19 mm hex tool to counter the torque wrench.

I'm left with about a 1/4 inch gap between the right swing arm and the brake caliper. I hoped when I torqued the axel nut it would pull the swing arms together and snug up. Not so.

Any idea where I went wrong and how to correct?
 

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gunslinger_006

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Also be sure you align the hub and sensor. “a” and “b” must line up when you put final torque on the axle.

Also do NOT use the pinch bolt to hold the axle while you torque. Use a 19mm hex on the opposite end.

 

BuellOnYamaha

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spacer is there -- it's grease-stuck against the brake caliper in my photo.
Also, hub and sensor are aligned -- took me a little while to figure that out but confirmed.
seems like I must be missing another spacer somewhere... I keep a pretty tidy garage and don't see any stray parts. But guess I'll keep looking.
 

gunslinger_006

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spacer is there -- it's grease-stuck against the brake caliper in my photo.
Also, hub and sensor are aligned -- took me a little while to figure that out but confirmed.
seems like I must be missing another spacer somewhere... I keep a pretty tidy garage and don't see any stray parts. But guess I'll keep looking.
Oh good. It really looked like it was missing!

There is a gap there where the spacer shows. My rear end is apart at the moment while i wait for a tire to arrive or i would share a pic
 

Boris

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OP, that gap looks right to me. So much so I just nipped down to the bike and looked. It’s fine, that gap should be there.

Have you definitely located the speed sensor lug into the back of the caliper carrier though? It looks too high to me, but could just be the camera angle. As per Gunslingers post further up.
 
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BuellOnYamaha

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Just parked it-wheel hasn’t been off for 5000 miles. Pretty sure that is how it is supposed to be.
OK, thanks. I should have taken a photo before I turned the first wrench. Rookie mistake. I guess it allows for a little lateral slippage by design? Seems wierd but picture worth a thousand words.
 

jrusell

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Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
HI:
Couldn't find a thread that addressed this issue. I just changed my rear tire and reinstalled the wheel, then torqued the axel nut to 90 lb/ft, with the pinch bolt loose and a 19 mm hex tool to counter the torque wrench.

I'm left with about a 1/4 inch gap between the right swing arm and the brake caliper. I hoped when I torqued the axel nut it would pull the swing arms together and snug up. Not so.

Any idea where I went wrong and how to correct?
You didn't do anything wrong.

When finished the axle will sit just inside the outside of the swingarm.
Torque axle first, snug up pinch bolt last.

That is how it should look, keep on riding.
 

WJBertrand

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Yup, looks correct to me. There’s a shoulder on the axle that butts up against that washer on the outside of the caliper bracket. No spacer missing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
R

RonH

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Like others have said, you're fine and the job is done correctly.
 

BuellOnYamaha

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OP, that gap looks right to me. So much so I just nipped down to the bike and looked. It’s fine, that gap should be there.

Have you definitely located the speed sensor lug into the back of the caliper carrier though? It looks too high to me, but could just be the camera angle. As per Gunslingers post further up.
I think so but I've since pulled the rear wheel off again and will 2X when I reinstall.
 

Bikedude987

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it's been said a few times, but yes, the right hand side is 'floating' and should be loosened after torquing the axle nut so that it can self center, then re tightened.
 

Eville Rich

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Is there any value in doing the final torquing of the brake torque rod or axle nut (followed by pinch bolt) with the rear wheel on the ground vs up in the air on the center stand? I do that for the front axle and associated bits.

Eville Rich
2016 S10
 

gunslinger_006

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Is there any value in doing the final torquing of the brake torque rod or axle nut (followed by pinch bolt) with the rear wheel on the ground vs up in the air on the center stand? I do that for the front axle and associated bits.

Eville Rich
2016 S10
I think it makes sense to put final torque on with an unloaded wheel. This is consistent with the factory service manual.
 

Eville Rich

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I think it makes sense to put final torque on with an unloaded wheel. This is consistent with the factory service manual.
That's how I've done it. The FSM doesn't appear to directly state it for the rear. For the front they talk about pushing down on the handlebars, implying that it needs to be on the ground.

Eville Rich
2016 S10
 

gunslinger_006

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That's how I've done it. The FSM doesn't appear to directly state it for the rear. For the front they talk about pushing down on the handlebars, implying that it needs to be on the ground.

Eville Rich
2016 S10
I think they rely entirely on the idea that you would be crazy to pull the rear wheel loaded, it’s always up on a jack or the center stand, so assembly being the reverse of disassembly, its just implied.

Which is a poor manual design imho.
 

Eville Rich

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I think they rely entirely on the idea that you would be crazy to pull the rear wheel loaded, it’s always up on a jack or the center stand, so assembly being the reverse of disassembly, its just implied.

Which is a poor manual design imho.
Exactly. I really think that a FSM should explicitly stated the entire process to avoid any assumptions.

Eville Rich
2016 S10
 
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