Using an extractor or suction device

oldguy

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Any experience and or opinions on whether this is kosher as opposed to a conventional oil change?
Thanks.
Jack
 

WrongLane

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I tried sucking some oil out of the fill hole with a hand pump type thing and could not get the hose deep enough in the hole to get to the oil. Might work with a thinner hose, mine was about 1/2 inch diameter.
 

~TABASCO~

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No experience with your original question. But if your goal is to get out as much as possible I can suggest doing what I do below.


I have found that if you want to get as much oil out as possible, lean the bike over as far as you can to the left. The oil pan is designed to drain "as much as it can". I will normally put a 1" board under the right side leg of the center stand. Once it stops dripping I will pull the bike over even more and more oil will come out. Then back to center and more oil comes out. I do all this several times until no more comes out.
When I fill it back up with oil its almost always 1 gallon + 1/4 or 1/2 quart.

(If you do all this nonsense I do with the oil draining, DO NOT fallow the owners manuals suggestion on the amount of oil added back into the engine. I won't be be enough)
 

WJBertrand

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I don't know if you can reach the pseudo oil tank/reservoir (with our dry sump engine design) from the filler opening or not?
 

Boris

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IIRC, when I had the clutch cover off, which includes the oil filler hole, the oil doesn't drain directly down, it sort of has to turn a corner before heading towards the crank and sump area. A suction device wouldn't work here.

As suggested in the posts above, the oil drain process with two drain plugs is so accessible and easy, it makes far more sense to go the traditional method.
 

Sierra1

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I'm not saying that the extra work, to get the extra oil out, isn't worth it. But, changing oil "the old fashioned way" on all of my vehicles....has never led to a failure of any parts, and nearly 200k miles on the motor(s) that I still have. Just my opinion.
 

GearheadGrrrl

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Just did my 15th "topside" oil and filter change on my '03 Golf TDI with a suction pump. Works great on that vehicle because the filter is on top of the engine and there's a big under engine cover that needs to come off to get at the drain plug. But on an S10? No way! The drain plugs are out there in plain sight and gravity drain is way faster than a suction pump.
 

Sierra1

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Just did my 15th "topside" oil and filter change on my '03 Golf TDI with a suction pump.....
"I've heard" that's how VW recommends the oil be removed. Something about needing a special tool to "drain" the oil from the bottom. Is that true? I also agree about the ease of access and draining on the Tenere.
 

GearheadGrrrl

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No special tool needed, and most VW dealers drain from the plug on the bottom because it's faster. But there is a suction pump with a VW parts number shown in the factory manual, so VW approves of the "topside" oil changes.
 

bigbob

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When I fill it back up with oil its almost always 1 gallon + 1/4 or 1/2 quart.

(If you do all this nonsense I do with the oil draining, DO NOT follow the owners manuals suggestion on the amount of oil added back into the engine. I won't be be enough)
So you do not put an exact amount back in. So you use the sight glass to figure out the 1/4 to 1/2 quart extra?
 

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So you do not put an exact amount back in. So you use the sight glass to figure out the 1/4 to 1/2 quart extra?
Short answer, yes.
But it’s a longer process of starting the bike, letting it sit, adding more, etc.
The dry sump is a bit fickle, but I’m pretty particular about getting it ‘right’.
 

2daMax

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I never trust the suck method. Gravity method works better. The last time I had a mechanic did a suck job on my car, it left 1L of oil in the sump. He was confident that this is the best method.
 

Boris

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The official line is -

Oil change - 3.1L
Oil & Filter - 3.4L

Note though that the engine actually holds 4.2L of oil, so excessive draining may need more than the recommended amount.
 

Checkswrecks

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Not arguing with Boris, but with so many non-metric types the following is copied and pasted from page 3-26 of the Service Manual:

Engine oil quantityTotal amount
4.20 L (4.44 US qt, 3.70 Imp.qt)
Without oil filter cartridge re-placement
3.10 L (3.28 US qt, 2.73 Imp.qt)
With oil filter cartridge replace-ment
3.40 L (3.59 US qt, 2.99 Imp.qt)

And I'll add that a number of members have written about putting in a whole US gallon (maybe not draining the bottle to the last drop) with no ill effects.

Let's not start another how to change the oil thread, as there are already several. Thx
 

Sierra1

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….And I'll add that a number of members have written about putting in a whole US gallon (maybe not draining the bottle to the last drop) with no ill effects.
You beat me to it. I had put in the "recommended amount", but my oil light would not go out. Draining, as recommended, required me to put in about half a cup less than the full gallon. But, the last cup I put in made the oil in the window go from 1/3 to full/over full. It's the only bike that I've had that is this finicky. It is what it is.
 
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