Tried changing oil today........

[semmyroundel]

Hi all, I bought my Castrol 10-40W Racing oil, and the liquimoly 75-90 for diff and the KN 204-1 filter and ran into a couple of problems-here's hoping someone can help me out.
First off, DO NOT buy a K&N 204-1 filter if you run a Givi skid plate (the nut on the front hits the skid plate preventing the fitting of the latter), see photo.

When I took off the diff filler and drain nuts, I couldn't make out clearly if there are washers there, if there are, they are defo not copper washers.

I've also included some photos so you can have a look and tell me if there are steel washers.

I've bought copper washers anyway, so if you suggest fitting them on top of existing bolts I will.

I'm surprised that Sportsbikeshop.co.uk (for those of us who order from this excellent supplier in the UK) didn't mention the ill-fitting filter if one has a Givi skid plate (there should at least be an advisory note to that effect).
I will email them and ask if there is anything they can do for me, in the meantime guys, what filter do you suggest?

On another note, I've found that some of the used engine oil made a lovely tonic for the plastic fairings-I hope you can see the difference between the before and after pics.

 

[semmyroundel]

Sorry about photo duplication, dunno how that happened.
Anyway I found this filter at £5.25 plus shipping, anyone know if they're any good?

Yamaha XT1200Z Super Tenere Hiflo Oil Filter - HF204-yamaha-xt1200z-tenere - MSA-Direct

Yamaha XT1200Z Super Tenere (2010 to 2013) Hiflo Oil Filter. Hiflofiltro has been manufacturing filters for the OEM motor industry since 1963. The worlds first TUV approved oil filter. Manufactured by Hiflofiltro using the best available materials.

www.msa-direct.co.uk

 

[Boris]

OEM filter does the job perfectly.

There are definitely washers on the shaft drain and filler bolts, both crush washers, both not copper. Here’s the part number. Both torqued to 23nm.

 

[sheikyerbooty]

I use Hi-Flo HF204 if OEM not available. Either copper or ally crush washers are fine for engine (M12) and FD (M14).

 

[semmyroundel]

Thanks guys, should I add the copper washers to what I photographed, or try and remove the steel washers? I couldn't seem to separate the steel washers from their bolts, they were so tight on.

 

[sheikyerbooty]

remove the old ones

 

[Bill_C]

Thanks guys, should I add the copper washers to what I photographed, or try and remove the steel washers? I couldn't seem to separate the steel washers from their bolts, they were so tight on.

You may need to soak it in WD40 and then run a pick along the edge of the washer to scrape off the gunk. If you can get a razor blade in the gap they should separate.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[Cycledude]

Or you could just keep using the original crush washers, my Goldwing has nearly 600,000 miles and I only changed the crush washer 1 time because it was cracked.

 

[fac191]

If you buy OEM parts they fit and other stuff fits because it's designed to. To be honest i don't get using fully synth oil when you don't need it and then trying to save money on a filter.

 

[semmyroundel]

You may need to soak it in WD40 and then run a pick along the edge of the washer to scrape off the gunk. If you can get a razor blade in the gap they should separate.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Thanks, I was waiting for a tip on how to remove them and didn't want to damage the bolts themselves.

 

[semmyroundel]

If you buy OEM parts they fit and other stuff fits because it's designed to. To be honest i don't get using fully synth oil when you don't need it and then trying to save money on a filter.

fac191, cheers, I know where you're coming from which is why I questioned buying those at £5.25, but cost wasn't my objective, the K&N filters aren't cheap, but are great quality but because of the fit, I wanted to source an alternative that did fit.
Anyway, I'm of the "change oil often" camp and the Hiflo filter won't be there too long as I'm going from mineral that the garage put in, to full synth and want to cycle the first oile change reasonably quickly.
Do you put in Super Unleaded too? Just wondering...

 

[Vanny]

My bike came with a K&N filter fitted , which went in ok behind my skid plate , I don’t know the brand of my plate but I can do all the jobs so far without removing it. When I changed the oil filter I bought a Yamaha one off eBay with Yamalube.

 

[holligl]

I recently bought the K&N from a local auto supply store when the Fram 6017A filters I ordered were delayed. It only fit after torquing it to spec with a Jaxon Plate. He has a flat aluminum cover over the filter, which I could have drilled a nut hole in, but did not have to. I like Mahle OC-575 filters, but they have gotten more expensive. I use a box cutter when removing the steel crush washer on the pumpkin plugs.

 

[fac191]

fac191, cheers, I know where you're coming from which is why I questioned buying those at £5.25, but cost wasn't my objective, the K&N filters aren't cheap, but are great quality but because of the fit, I wanted to source an alternative that did fit.
Anyway, I'm of the "change oil often" camp and the Hiflo filter won't be there too long as I'm going from mineral that the garage put in, to full synth and want to cycle the first oile change reasonably quickly.
Do you put in Super Unleaded too? Just wondering...

Personally i think fully synth is a waste of money. Especially if you change it often enough it's not a race engine as it has an oil filter. I always use the best petrol i would not put that E10 shite in my bike.

 

[yen_powell]

At my first oil change I put the rear dif drain plugs into a vice (using the hex head) then used a small thin flat bladed screw driver and hammer between the bolt and the washer to lift up the washers. I have used copper washers for them after that, I buy lots at a time.

 

[Longdog Cymru]

Do you put in Super Unleaded too? Just wondering...

I always use Super Unleaded in my S10. The only time I have ever put in that E10 monkey piss is if I have no other choice.

 

[pooh and xtine]

I use Mahle OC575 filters (£11.80 Opie Oils), and any cheap 10w40 motorcycle oil. The washers on drain plugs are just steel, they’re not crush washers, so they can be used over and over. I tried 98 super unleaded, but couldn’t tell any difference between that and e10 either how it drives nor fuel consumption.

 

[holligl]

I use Mahle OC575 filters (£11.80 Opie Oils), and any cheap 10w40 motorcycle oil. The washers on drain plugs are just steel, they’re not crush washers, so they can be used over and over. I tried 98 super unleaded, but couldn’t tell any difference between that and e10 either how it drives nor fuel consumption.

They ARE crush washers, just put a new one on and see how different it torques. While the Service Manual calls out replacement every time, I reuse them frequently, but also try to keep some on hand. I will generally add the plug washers to another parts order to get free shipping.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[fac191]

When i did an oil change ( last one done by dealer ) there were none on mine. Surprisingly it never leaked.

 

[pooh and xtine]

They ARE crush washers, just put a new one on and see how different it torques. While the Service Manual calls out replacement every time, I reuse them frequently, but also try to keep some on hand. I will generally add the plug washers to another parts order to get free shipping.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Ah, I stand corrected! For some reason I thought that the washers were just to help reduce the likelihood of over tightening the steel drain bolt and stripping the threads in the alloy sump, but the one in the picture looks like a proper rolled single-use type crush washer designed to provide a seal. I had not noticed that when changing the oil in the past.