Touratech failure

[robsonthejob]

Hi - Anyone else had this - My touratech topbox rack has cracked clean across both rear mountings on my Gen1.

Looked at Touratech site and latest version has mounts that look way stronger/improved.

The luggage was fitted by previous owner (whos ignoring my phone calls sadly) and Touratech wont help without the original invoice.

Annoying that top quality luggage like this has failed so early in its life.

Anyone else had this issue ?

 

[Squibb]

Seems unusual, unless it's been overloaded at some stage; or stressed with high speed riding. You have a Gen1 bike, so how old is this TT rack?

I can recall a few cases where Altrider racks cracked, which IIRC was due to over-torquing countersunk mountings, but this seems unlikely with TT.

A proficient welder should be able to undertake a repair

 

[Cycledude]

Sounds like Touratech is hoping to weasel out on you

 

[Sierra1]

I'm with Squibb, find a buddy that can weld. Not a difficult job, and not a very noticeable location; doesn't have to be real pretty.

 

[Longdog Cymru]

I have a Touratech rack that is surplus to my needs, but it doesn’t look like rob’s. Mine is aluminium and stainless steel. I’ll try and get a picture of it uploaded to here.

 

[Ape]

Same thing happened with my moose top box mounting plate. Pulled it off and bought a yamaha top box to match the side ones. Easy enough to make a few new mounting tabs for mine.

 

[robsonthejob]

I have a welder lined up but i still think TT should replace it. They obviously know its an issue as they have changed the design.

 

[robsonthejob]

I managed to trace teh original owner tried email and phone but no answer - seems he doesnt want to help......

 

[fac191]

I managed to trace teh original owner tried email and phone but no answer - seems he doesnt want to help......

You could probably araldite it with a plate.

 

[Squibb]

I have a welder lined up but i still think TT should replace it. They obviously know its an issue as they have changed the design.

Pray tell us - how old is this rack? (you have no invoice/receipt I believe) Was it cracked when you purchased the bike?

I suspect the answers are ... N/K & No. Just live a little, get it welded, strengthened if you see fit, & move on with life.

In the future, make sure you observe the speed & load ratings - they are lower than you might expect.

 

[robsonthejob]

Pray tell us - how old is this rack? (you have no invoice/receipt I believe) Was it cracked when you purchased the bike?

I suspect the answers are ... N/K & No. Just live a little, get it welded, strengthened if you see fit, & move on with life.

In the future, make sure you observe the speed & load ratings - they are lower than you might expect.

Hi - How old - no idea. Bike is a 2012. so some time between then and now. The top box is small so would be had to put anything really heavy in it. Im going to go see the welder Saturday. still annoyed with previous owner, he could have answered me if he didn't have it thats fine, I would have answered the question if the roles reversed hey ho.
Glad it went now not later when on a trip fully loaded.

 

[robsonthejob]

I have a Touratech rack that is surplus to my needs, but it doesn’t look like rob’s. Mine is aluminium and stainless steel. I’ll try and get a picture of it uploaded to here.

Hi - would be interested to see this - thanks !

 

[Longdog Cymru]

OK, will post a pic ASAP

 

[Longdog Cymru]

Here you go, views from above and below. Hope this helps.

 

[Kurgan]

One aspect I haven't seen mentioned which to me is interesting.. Look at the type of fastener used by Touratech, a domed hex bolt made from stainless.



They're not uncommon at all since they are aesthetically more pleasing than a standard cap socket hex bolt like this example:



A disadvantage of that domed design is that the hex key inserted in to that fastener has less contact area to act upon compared to the standard cap socket variety. Add to that it's stainless which is softer than regular carbon steel and that dome head fastener would strip out before any excessive amount of pressure were applied to it for tightening. I've done it and have worked on bikes where the previous owner or shop has done it, too.

 

[Don in Lodi]

I thought stainless was harder than carbon steel. Almost impossible to drill a hole into the stuff.

 

[WJBertrand]

Stainless doesn’t start out as hard as carbon steel and if you’ve ever galled two pieces of stainless together using surprisingly little force, you realize how soft it really is. I once screwed two 2” stainless NPT fittings together just lightly with my hands. They immediately galled together so bad they were ruined when we put them in a vise and tried to separate them with a wrench.
The reason stainless is so hard to drill is because it’s so susceptible to local work hardening. The stress, strain and heating makes just the very local spot you’re trying to drill harden up and resist being cut.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Kurgan]

I thought stainless was harder than carbon steel. Almost impossible to drill a hole into the stuff.

Stainless has less carbon content so it's softer. It does work harden with heat, though, especially from high-speed drill bits. When I have to drill stainless I usually use a new bit, less rpm and some oil to help with heat.

 

[Kurgan]

Stainless on stainless, like Jeff mentioned, will very readily gall. For pistols where frames and slides are fitted together with very accurate tolerances, a stainless frame and stainless slide can be a nightmare. Some gun manufacturers go so far as to recommend a specific lubricant be used (Eezox) instead of regular old gun oil to keep things working correctly.

 

[Don in Lodi]

I guess I didn't realize how dangerous my 38 year old stainless Mini 14 was, coulda blown up with any of the thousands of rounds I've put through her. I should prolly toss my stainless Smith & Wesson and Ruger too. Sheesh.