Totally rusted coil/spark plug

[Checkswrecks]

I know it's a year later ...! ,...oh and the lovely lady in my life asked why they was oil on hairdryer ...errrm ...no idea XX

Glad you seem to have gotten to the point of understanding with it.
As for the other half and her hair dryer, wellll....

 

[Super10NJ]

Just did my plugs and of course two of the plugs were quite rusted, one coil broke ($$) because of all the corrosion that made it impossible to get out normally, had to eventually use channel locks. I'm thinking of adding some sort of extra o-ring to the coil, or possibly just filling the space with something, because there is clearly a problem with the design. Might even be better off with no rubber cap and some sort of closed cell foam that would allow the water to evaporate. Since the seal doesn't stop it from entering but seems to keep it from evaporating/escaping.

 

[RCinNC]

There are a couple threads on here from guys who've done the O-rings on the coils. I bought a bag of them from McMaster-Carr to have on hand, but haven't put them in yet. In the past, I've used BelRay grease around the underside of the cap on the coil stick to form a waterproof seal.

 

[Super10NJ]

I did grease the top seal but with the heat I doubt it would last long. I'm wondering if the water is being forced in when at highway speeds and perhaps some sort of trim put in front of all the coils could prevent it. An "L" shaped fairing and use the coil bolts to hold it in place.

 

[RCinNC]

Belray's has an upper temperature rating of 300 degrees F. I've never checked the temperature on the top of the valve cover where the coil stick caps are sitting, but I'm fairly comfortable in guessing it's substantially less than that.

I believe there's a member on here who did make some sort of a spray shield to accomplish what you're describing, but I can't remember who it was. It might be in one of those threads about coil sticks.

 

[bnschroder]

I can’t imagine they rust from riding in the rain. Shouldn’t the engine be warm enough to evaporate the water?
My guess is everybody who has rusty coils has at some point parked their bike in the rain and water has been able to go in the holes and stand there for a while.
Not an excuse for the poor design.


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[EricV]

FWIW, I had corrosion on the first two plugs, similar to what SilverBullet shows, on my 2012 Super Ten, but the 2015 has zero at 28k miles. The Gen I bike would show corrosion at every spark plug change, usually done around 20k intervals.

 

[Super10NJ]

Belray's has an upper temperature rating of 300 degrees F. I've never checked the temperature on the top of the valve cover where the coil stick caps are sitting, but I'm fairly comfortable in guessing it's substantially less than that.
.

I'm sure the grease wouldn't burn but I think it would get soupy enough for it to eventually seep away over time maybe?. Now that I'm thinking about it I guess I should make sure it's not too conductive if it makes it's way down to the plug/coil junction.

I do ride year round, rain or shine, but i'd say there are (rare) periods where I just don't use it so that clearly could be a part of it. Still if the water never got there in the first place....

 

[TeneKym]

I did grease the top seal but with the heat I doubt it would last long. I'm wondering if the water is being forced in when at highway speeds and perhaps some sort of trim put in front of all the coils could prevent it. An "L" shaped fairing and use the coil bolts to hold it in place.

I am thinking the same. Yesterday I put some metal fly screen between the crash guard and frame on the theory (sorry) that it will 1. slow the water down 2. break it into a mist that hopefully be less of a problem.

I also did the o-ring mod with liberal spray of silicone spray to protect and Lub it. My ALDI o-ring kit had many to choose from.