Tire buffers?

[Wheelin]

I know that there's plenty of threads about tires, but I would like to get people's opinions and advice about patching a tire. So far, I've not been very good at applying the inner patch to a tire. And this is a perfect scenario of a small hole in the center tread of a tire, NOT near the sidewall. I think part of the problem is the little hand buff tool that manufacturers give us to buff the inside of the tire.

For those of you that are good at applying patches that actually stick and stay stuck to the inside of a tire, are you using a pneumatic tire buffer? If not, what techniques do you use with that little buffer that barely fits on my sausage thumbs?

 

[EricV]

Sounds like you are using a bicycle repair kit. I mostly do sticky string repairs in the scenario you describe. Easier, no dis-mounting of the tire, permanent and fully vulcanized thru the hole and inside the tire.

When I do patch from the inside, I use a pneumatic grinder or Dremel with a coarse sanding drum to lightly buff the inside area, then use a patch/plug, then slather the whole back of the patch and area around the patch with vulcanizing rubber cement.

 

[Don in Lodi]

I believe tube patching and tire patching kits should be different. They may not be at the generic auto parts store though. Tire patching takes a fair bit of grinding to rough/smooth (it's a skill) the surface enough, but not down to the cord. The tube patching metal cheese grater scratcher isn't near robust enough. Then you need a good non residue type of cleaner/buffer and a good solid scraper to prep the smooth/rough rubber before applying one even coat of vulcanizing adhesive, more is not better. Then wait for the glue to dry before placing the patch. Then you need a good stitching wheel to make sure the patch is properly and thoroughly pressed into perfect contact throughout. Eric's patch plugs are slick, and really are the best way to plug/patch up to maybe a quarter inch, especially on steel belted tires, but I've never gotten to use them in the last 25 years.
It's so much easier to plug a tire...

 

[Tenere man]

Hi Guys, I've been thinking that until i started reading this site, i hadn't ever hear of sticky string with regards to a puncture repair. I thought that the tyre had to come off the rim, and sealed from the inside, da !!!!
So i no this is going to sound really stupid, but i've been and ordered a complete repair kit of ebay, which has sticky string, 2 tools, 1 like a drill, and 1 like a big needle, cement, and 10 x 6mm sticky strings. I have also seen 4mm SS, its probaly worth having that size as well ?
So is it that when you insert the SS into the needle, are you trying to just fill the hole with just 1 length of the string, our are you trying to doubling it up, depends on the hole size i surpose, and have 2 sticking thou the tread. ? How strong is this SS, can you apply a fair amount of force, trying to get it threw the tyre tread ?
Thanks everybody.

 

[EricV]

Hi Guys, I've been thinking that until i started reading this site, i hadn't ever hear of sticky string with regards to a puncture repair. I thought that the tyre had to come off the rim, and sealed from the inside, da !!!!
So i no this is going to sound really stupid, but i've been and ordered a complete repair kit of ebay, which has sticky string, 2 tools, 1 like a drill, and 1 like a big needle, cement, and 10 x 6mm sticky strings. I have also seen 4mm SS, its probaly worth having that size as well ?
So is it that when you insert the SS into the needle, are you trying to just fill the hole with just 1 length of the string, our are you trying to doubling it up, depends on the hole size i surpose, and have 2 sticking thou the tread. ? How strong is this SS, can you apply a fair amount of force, trying to get it threw the tyre tread ?
Thanks everybody.

Short primer for sticky string repairs. You discover a flat. Mates all left you, so you can't get one of them to help.

1. Get safely off the road.
2. Center stand the bike if its the rear tyre. If front tyre, move bike bit by bit, then search for puncture or debris in tyre.
3. get kit out and ready to use, including compressor.
4. Thread a sticky string thru the eye of the insertion tool to the mid point. Equal length on both sides.

Now, AIR UP THE TYRE! I know, sounds daft, but it is much easier to do the work with the tyre under pressure than with the tyre flat.

5. Remove the offending screw/nail/debris from the tyre and insert the reamer tool. This is the one like a drill. You will usually need to use a bit of force to get this into the tyre. Keep at it, working back and forth until you can reasonably easily move it in and out. This does several things; Cleans the hole, makes is large enough to get the insertion tool in, makes the hole uniform which helps get a good seal/bond with the sticky string/worm.

When you're happy with the reaming of the hole, leave the tool in the tyre and air up the tire again, if it's lost too much during the process. You want the tyre to resist your push, not just fold in when you push.

6. Optional - Add a dab of rubber cement/vulcanizing cement/tyre glue to the folded over tip of the sticky string and insertion tool. This acts a bit as a lubricant and also helps seal tiny imperfections in the hole.

7. Remove the reamer tool and push the insertion tool with the sticky string into the tyre so that approx half of the length is inside the tyre. A little more is fine, a little less is not. Now, remove the insertion tool by twisting 1/4 to 1/2 a turn as you pull the tool back out. The sticky string will knot up on the inside and stay in the tyre and the tool will come out w/o the string on it. If it all comes out, stick it back in!

If need be, get another sticky string threaded thru the eye of the tool and repeat for larger holes. If you didn't have to work to get the reamer tool in the first time, the hole is likely large enough that you will need two strings. Try to hold the first one in place with a finger while you insert the second one so the first is not pushed inside the tyre or pulled back out when you remove the insertion tool on the second string.

8. Listen/look for leaking air. If it seems good, air up the tyre to normal pressure and tidy up your kit. Check the tyre pressure again to see if you've had any serious leakage while doing the tidy. If not, trim the excess string off leaving approx. 1/4" (6mm) using a sharp blade or razor. Some keep a single sided razor blade in their tyre repair kit for this, others use the handy pocket knife.

When you start riding the heat from the tire will help vulcanize the sticky string in the hole and it will become a homogeneous repair.

Just as a tip, should you later notice the repair leaking, the easiest way to re-repair is to drill a hole where it's leaking and insert a new sticky string. It's quite difficult to remove a vulcanized sticky string. Best done in the comfort of your garage.

This is not the only or best ever way, just how I do the task. Others may have good/better methods as well.

Edit - Next time you need a fresh tyre, PRACTICE THIS REPAIR! Puncture the tyre with an awl, or drill a hole and do a sticky string repair. Much easier to learn the process in a comfortable area at home than on the side of the A64 in the rain.

Also - Make sure you have a good power supply for your compressor. The factory cigg plug is only rated for 3 amps and will just blow the fuse. A fused power connection for a maintenance charger or heated gear works well. Just make sure to have the correct adaptors or plugs so the charger fits to the bike power.

 

[Don in Lodi]

The only addendum to that excellent instructional is to pay particular attention to the angle the offending debris took when going in. The sticky string really needs to be inserted in the same path. Straight in is easy, a steep angle gets more challenging.

 

[Tenere man]

WOW, what can i say but thank you so very much to EricV. I'm sure lots of others will benefit from them also.
What a comprehensive step by step guide on how to mend a tyre with SS. I would have never had thought to inflate the tyre, before inserting the hole maker.
That's another good pointer, re the power supply for the compresser. I have fitted the other day a SAE conneter, staight onto the battery, and then into a high quality cig lighter, fused at 10 amps. The A64, near York is the last place in the world you would ever want a flat tyre, believe me.
Thanks for the angle entry tip from Don in Lodi.
Its this sort of advise from fellow Tenere owners that helps everybody, sort out any problems that might crop up, as and when.
Take care out there

 

[EricV]

Your SAE connector to the cig lighter will work a peach. And Yes, the A64 would be no fun at all with a flat tyre! That's why I picked it as an example.

 

[Wheelin]

Short primer for sticky string repairs. You discover a flat. Mates all left you, so you can't get one of them to help.

1. Get safely off the road.
2. Center stand the bike if its the rear tyre. If front tyre, move bike bit by bit, then search for puncture or debris in tyre.
3. get kit out and ready to use, including compressor.
4. Thread a sticky string thru the eye of the insertion tool to the mid point. Equal length on both sides.

Now, AIR UP THE TYRE! I know, sounds daft, but it is much easier to do the work with the tyre under pressure than with the tyre flat.

5. Remove the offending screw/nail/debris from the tyre and insert the reamer tool. This is the one like a drill. You will usually need to use a bit of force to get this into the tyre. Keep at it, working back and forth until you can reasonably easily move it in and out. This does several things; Cleans the hole, makes is large enough to get the insertion tool in, makes the hole uniform which helps get a good seal/bond with the sticky string/worm.

When you're happy with the reaming of the hole, leave the tool in the tyre and air up the tire again, if it's lost too much during the process. You want the tyre to resist your push, not just fold in when you push.

6. Optional - Add a dab of rubber cement/vulcanizing cement/tyre glue to the folded over tip of the sticky string and insertion tool. This acts a bit as a lubricant and also helps seal tiny imperfections in the hole.

7. Remove the reamer tool and push the insertion tool with the sticky string into the tyre so that approx half of the length is inside the tyre. A little more is fine, a little less is not. Now, remove the insertion tool by twisting 1/4 to 1/2 a turn as you pull the tool back out. The sticky string will knot up on the inside and stay in the tyre and the tool will come out w/o the string on it. If it all comes out, stick it back in!

If need be, get another sticky string threaded thru the eye of the tool and repeat for larger holes. If you didn't have to work to get the reamer tool in the first time, the hole is likely large enough that you will need two strings. Try to hold the first one in place with a finger while you insert the second one so the first is not pushed inside the tyre or pulled back out when you remove the insertion tool on the second string.

8. Listen/look for leaking air. If it seems good, air up the tyre to normal pressure and tidy up your kit. Check the tyre pressure again to see if you've had any serious leakage while doing the tidy. If not, trim the excess string off leaving approx. 1/4" (6mm) using a sharp blade or razor. Some keep a single sided razor blade in their tyre repair kit for this, others use the handy pocket knife.

When you start riding the heat from the tire will help vulcanize the sticky string in the hole and it will become a homogeneous repair.

Just as a tip, should you later notice the repair leaking, the easiest way to re-repair is to drill a hole where it's leaking and insert a new sticky string. It's quite difficult to remove a vulcanized sticky string. Best done in the comfort of your garage.

This is not the only or best ever way, just how I do the task. Others may have good/better methods as well.

Edit - Next time you need a fresh tyre, PRACTICE THIS REPAIR! Puncture the tyre with an awl, or drill a hole and do a sticky string repair. Much easier to learn the process in a comfortable area at home than on the side of the A64 in the rain.

Also - Make sure you have a good power supply for your compressor. The factory cigg plug is only rated for 3 amps and will just blow the fuse. A fused power connection for a maintenance charger or heated gear works well. Just make sure to have the correct adaptors or plugs so the charger fits to the bike power.

Eric, I have tried the sticky string method, only to have the tire eventually push the sticky string back out with its air pressure. I did it without rubber cement (didn’t have any available at the time), so is that where I went wrong?

 

[Don in Lodi]

That should be impossible if the sticky string has been installed a sufficient depth and with a proper twist on tool extraction. The heat build up of running on the pavement will cause the wad on the inside to chemically vulcanize to the tire. When the tire is eventually taken off there will be a flattened, melted, orange blob/knot on the inside. Vulcanizing cement can be used as a lubricant when doing the install, but the white lube than comes with the plug kit should be all you need.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Eric, I have tried the sticky string method, only to have the tire eventually push the sticky string back out with its air pressure. I did it without rubber cement (didn’t have any available at the time), so is that where I went wrong?

My guess is that you barely had the sticky string in the hole because like Don wrote, the fully inserted there's enough inside to fold over and create a mechanical lock.

Here's a how-to video:

 

[EricV]

Eric, I have tried the sticky string method, only to have the tire eventually push the sticky string back out with its air pressure. I did it without rubber cement (didn’t have any available at the time), so is that where I went wrong?

Sorry. late to respond. The only times I've seen this is if, as Don said, it was shallow and/or no or insufficient twist was made while inserting the SS and removing the tool, OR when the hole was simply too big for one SS. I've done everything right and had it come out on a large hole. False hope on my part that one would do the job. It took two.

One other thing that can cause this is if you have used a can of tire sealant before trying the sticky string. You are basically screwed if you use a tire sealant and it doesn't work. That will prevent the SS from bonding to the tire and nothing short of a dismount and patch/plug from the inside will work after a good cleaning of the inside of the tire.

 

[Don in Lodi]

D'oh! Fix-a-flat is terrible stuff.

 

[Wheelin]

Ah! I see. I didn’t do the twist (dancing or otherwise) of the SS before removing the tool. Pretty sure I inserted it deep enough. (What would my wife think if she saw this comment by itself!?)

Thanks Don, Eric, and Checkswrecks.

 

[Checkswrecks]

D'oh! Fix-a-flat is terrible stuff.

+111

That shit shouldn't be allowed anywhere near a motorcycle tire. And if you get it on the rim, a high power bike can make the tire slide on it.

 

[EricV]

Ah! I see. I didn’t do the twist (dancing or otherwise) of the SS before removing the tool. Pretty sure I inserted it deep enough. (What would my wife think if she saw this comment by itself!?)

Thanks Don, Eric, and Checkswrecks.

The 1/4 to 1/2 turn as you remove the sticky string insertion tool is to create a knot or bunch of the sticky string inside the tire. This helps prevent the sticky string from coming out with the tool, but also is a big factor in giving a nice 'head' inside the tire that bonds well as the heat from the tire affects it and it vulcanizes to the inside of the tire and in the hole that prevents it from coming out.

In rare cases if you fix a larger hole and then have to travel at higher speeds, it's possible for the SS to come out before it vulcanizes. I've heard of that occurring in cold temps with an immediate interstate speed after the repair. Most of the time there is enough heat in the tire from running to quickly vulcanize the tire and enough friction in the hole that the sticky string doesn't move.

It's not a bad thing to give it a visual check a few miles down the road if it's safe to do so and verify that it's not working it's way out. You will notice the 'tails' of the string would be sticking out farther than when you trimmed them off after the repair.

 

[Wheelin]

It's not a bad thing to give it a visual check a few miles down the road if it's safe to do so and verify that it's not working it's way out. You will notice the 'tails' of the string would be sticking out farther than when you trimmed them off after the repair.

Will do, thanks.

 

[Wheelin]

+111

That shit shouldn't be allowed anywhere near a motorcycle tire. And if you get it on the rim, a high power bike can make the tire slide on it.

I tried that Ride On stuff once because it’s supposed to dynamically balance the tire as well as seal it. While I didn’t experience any wobble from the tire being out of balance, I agree that it would render a plug repair useless.