Throttle body sync for 2015 model

[2daMax]

Manometer tubes design to which I had made and sync'ed more than 10 times.

Bills of material:
1. 4mm ID clear tubes (aquarium shop sells them) - at least 8 feet.
2. T joint 4mm.
3. Wooden beam or plastic pipe pole at least 2.5' long
4. Cable ties.
5. Oil - ATF is red and is good for viewing.

Assembly

1. Cut out the tube of about 1.5" to 2" and attach it to the T joint.
2. Remaining tube, find the half way point. Mark it.
3. Place the tube so that it forms a "U" shape and with 2.5 feet on both sides, cable tie to the Pole/Beam. Create a vertically positioned tube. The halfway Mark should be right at the bottom of the pole, at the lowest point of the "U".
4. Fill in with ATF so that both sides are about 12 inches level height.
5. Now u have 2 free open ends of the tube. One end, connect to the T joint. This end goes to the Left TB. The other end goes to the Right TB.

Sync'ing. (I remember clearly as I just did the Sync on 10 Super Tenere's that visited me last weekend).

1. Check the air screws for a paint mark. The painted screw is the reference screw and is fully closed in. I have seen UK, US, Japan, Aussie specs S10 and they can be on either side. Confirm that the screw is fully closed in. Position the manometer at the opposite side of the reference screw because you will need visual of the levels as you adjust the other screw.
2. Connect the manometer to the TB. For Left Side TB, remove the MAP sensor black hose, then connect the black hose to the T joint, while the clear hose connects to the barb. Connect the clear hose on the other TB.
2. Start and warm the bike to 80 C.
3. Open up the reference screw 3/4 turn or in my case, 1/2 turn. You can do this as the temperature rises.
4. Watch the levels on the 2 sides. They maybe inches off from each other. As the temp approaches 80C, the difference in level will stabilie. Adjust the other screw until the levels are equal.
5. Remove hoses, and replace back the MAP sensor hose and rubber cap.
6. Optionally, you can adjust the CO setting.

Notes:
1. Use a long nose plier to wiggle free the MAP sensor hose if it is tight. Do the same for the Right Side TB rubber plug. If the rubber plug cracks, temporary I will use the 4mm clear hose and cut it short and force in a M4 bolt.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Thanks!

 

[mebgardner]

Very Clever. You continue to Impress. Thanks for This.

I sure wish you had posted this before I spent all that cash on a store bought manometer. Oh Well, the next guy benefits.

Thank You, 2DaMax!

 

[Checkswrecks]

To give a visual image of what 2DaMax is talking about. It's much more involved and takes longer than pulling out a CarbMate or manometer, but it works and is cheap. The tubing I used was about 20 ft long.

 

[mebgardner]

I performed the TB sync check today. No reason, I did it cause I could...

I used the hose length setup described above, with a small difference: The two hoses from my manometer were of equal length from the meter input to the TB nipple connections, no allowance in the left TB hose length for the branch hose "T" connection to the MAP sensor.

This system worked out fine. I used a "Carbtune Pro" manometer, bought online and setup with a "vacuum restrictor" in each of the two hoses per their instructions. Each of the two included 1/8" hoses measures to 100 cm, and they instruct to place a restrictor in each hose at 10 cm from the end, at the engine connection side. That is, cut 10 cm from each hose end and insert a restrictor there. Then, connect that end to the TB nipple.

The OEM hose from the MAP sensor to the left TB is 3 1/4" long. It's not 1/8" hose, it's something slightly narrower. It's a tighter fit than 1/8" hose. I would replace it with 1/8" hose available everywhere here in the US, *but* if I did that, I would use hose clamps of some sort. Without clamps, it would not be slip-on tight enough for me, to leave it that way permanently.

So, I pulled off the OEM 3 1/4" long hose, and cut a piece of 1/8" hose to that same length. Then I cut that in half and inserted both half pieces to the plastic "T" connector. Then, insert the remaining "T" connector nipple to the left manometer hose end, the end with the restrictor. Then, Hold up the two manometer hoses, and cut left side hose so that both hoses are equal length again, manometer to TB nipple connection. (ie: Do not deduct for MAP sensor branch length of 1/2 of 3 1/4"). Just make the two hoses equal length, end to end, as they're dangling in front of your eyes.

I noted the Right TB nipple rubber cover has a clamp to keep it in place. The MAP sensor to Left TB hose does not have clamps, it's a tight sliding fit only, at both ends.

On my cycle, a 2016 non-ES model, the right TB is "painted" and so is the reference side. I placed a marked tape piece as a "witness" mark for the screw positions on each side before adjusting anything. The right TB side was set at 1/4 turn out by the factory setting.

I connected the manometer to the TBs, and the MAP sensor to the "T" hose. Started the cycle, gave it a 10 minute idle warmup, and noted that the manometer read at 23 cm / Hg on both sides after the warmup. A balanced reading on both sides, no adjustment needed. I also noted the reading were not level and balanced at cold, just after startup. They became balanced as the cycle warmed up.

Yeah, I turned the left TB screw anyway Left TB reading went up, turned Left TB screw other way, Left TB reading went down. Turned the Left TB screw again, and eyeballed it at "both level", and noted the Left TB was again at the witness mark reading. Good!

Turned it off and buttoned it back up.

 

[U.P.rider]

I performed the TB sync check today. No reason, I did it cause I could...

I used the hose length setup described above, with a small difference: The two hoses from my manometer were of equal length from the meter input to the TB nipple connections, no allowance in the left TB hose length for the branch hose "T" connection to the MAP sensor.

This system worked out fine. I used a "Carbtune Pro" manometer, bought online and setup with a "vacuum restrictor" in each of the two hoses per their instructions. Each of the two included 1/8" hoses measures to 100 cm, and they instruct to place a restrictor in each hose at 10 cm from the end, at the engine connection side. That is, cut 10 cm from each hose end and insert a restrictor there. Then, connect that end to the TB nipple.

The OEM hose from the MAP sensor to the left TB is 3 1/4" long. It's not 1/8" hose, it's something slightly narrower. It's a tighter fit than 1/8" hose. I would replace it with 1/8" hose available everywhere here in the US, *but* if I did that, I would use hose clamps of some sort. Without clamps, it would not be slip-on tight enough for me, to leave it that way permanently.

So, I pulled off the OEM 3 1/4" long hose, and cut a piece of 1/8" hose to that same length. Then I cut that in half and inserted both half pieces to the plastic "T" connector. Then, insert the remaining "T" connector nipple to the left manometer hose end, the end with the restrictor. Then, Hold up the two manometer hoses, and cut left side hose so that both hoses are equal length again, manometer to TB nipple connection. (ie: Do not deduct for MAP sensor branch length of 1/2 of 3 1/4"). Just make the two hoses equal length, end to end, as they're dangling in front of your eyes.

I noted the Right TB nipple rubber cover has a clamp to keep it in place. The MAP sensor to Left TB hose does not have clamps, it's a tight sliding fit only, at both ends.

On my cycle, a 2016 non-ES model, the right TB is "painted" and so is the reference side. I placed a marked tape piece as a "witness" mark for the screw positions on each side before adjusting anything. The right TB side was set at 1/4 turn out by the factory setting.

I connected the manometer to the TBs, and the MAP sensor to the "T" hose. Started the cycle, gave it a 10 minute idle warmup, and noted that the manometer read at 23 cm / Hg on both sides after the warmup. A balanced reading on both sides, no adjustment needed. I also noted the reading were not level and balanced at cold, just after startup. They became balanced as the cycle warmed up.

Yeah, I turned the left TB screw anyway Left TB reading went up, turned Left TB screw other way, Left TB reading went down. Turned the Left TB screw again, and eyeballed it at "both level", and noted the Left TB was again at the witness mark reading. Good!

Turned it off and buttoned it back up.

I have a Carbtune Pro manometer that I use to set my Gen 1 Vmax carbs so thanks for the post on your setup.

 

[old1959]

I recently did my 2017 using a TwinMax. Yes, I must like to spend money... First I marked each screw with a small dab of paint to use as a reference point. Afterwards, I started with opening the white painted screw, which on my bike was the left side as sitting on the bike. I opened the screw a 1/4 of turn based on what I've read here. To bring the two cylinders equal I opened the right screw approximately under a half a turn. Also, prior to starting, I checked the sync and the cylinders were almost equal. One more thing, the engine sounded as if the idle rpm picked up a bit which should help prevent stalling.

 

[ballisticexchris]

Hi again old1959, how do you like that Twin Max? I’m thinking of doing the recommended sync at around the 4000-5000 mile mark.

 

[s.ga.rider]

I checked my 2014(15k miles) today. The white screw was almost tight, maybe 1/8th of a turn out if that. The throttle bodies were out of sync a bit but I turned the white screw out to half a turn and it matched the other side then. The idle picked up a little and it seemed to smooth it out.

 

[holligl]

After my valve adjustment and TB sync it seems like my gas mileage has dropped. Otherwise, Bike runs fine. (It could also be I'm riding faster, in more wind, and some with panniers). I did sync using the right reference screw as it was easier and not far out of adjustment. Technically, should mileage change by changing the reference screw, as long as they are balanced in the end?

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