Throttle Body Ballancing Question.

[fac191]

Hi all. Have missed the 18,000mls service due to covid so am going to do the oil change and brake service myself. The bike seems to run ok no vibes etc. So what i am asking is can i skip the balancing till the 24,000mls service and will it do any harm. Thanks for any replies.

 

[bimota]

my bikes got 24000 mls on it throttle bodies never been looked at bike runs lovely no issues

rob

 

[fac191]

my bikes got 24000 mls on it throttle bodies never been looked at bike runs lovely no issues

rob

Thanks Rob.

 

[RonH]

I have the harmonizer tool and since it works so great I enjoy doing the sync, but the adjustment is so tiny it's really not even necessary for the most part. Every 4,000 miles I turn a screw 1/6 turn or so and note what I did. Pretty much like clockwork one time 1/6 turn out, next time 1/6 turn back in. Not enough to even bother doing.

 

[~TABASCO~]

You're not going to hurt anything........ When you do get around to doing the sync make sure that the (R) side TB is turned out 3/4 of a turn from the screwed in bottomed out position (stock). And once this is completed Sync the (L) TB to the newly adjusted (R) side.

Smoother, better, and everyone likes that change.

(L) = clutch lever (R) = front brake lever


(NOTE: 95% + of the Tenere's I have ever worked on have a white paint mark on the (Right) side Throttle body, this is the one to back out 3/4 of a turn. On SOME bikes the white mark is on the (Left) side. This makes no difference, the process is the same. The side with the white paint mark is the side you want to back out 3/4 of a turn and sync the other side)


Like RONH said, I have a Harmonizer and I check mine about every six months. Typically it doesn't need much of a change but im very particular on keeping the engine Tip-Top. NOTE: I have run into one or two bikes that the screw is "loose". These two bikes need to have that screw adjusted really often because it vibrates out I guess? The bike starts to not run that great and he knows the issue. I did the adjustments a few times and showed him the situation and now he adjust it all the time. I think on one of the bikes we had to put a new air screw in and that fixed the issue. This is pretty rare, but just a FYI for anyone else reading this post. Ive recently been seeing bikes out of sync by 35-45 points. Thats a lot, normally they are 10-15. It's not like anything will break or leave you stranded but its a GOOD IDEA to keep an eye on the Sync at least once a year, IMOP...............

 

[fac191]

You're not going to hurt anything........ When you do get around to doing the sync make sure that the (R) side TB is turned out 3/4 of a turn from the screwed in bottomed out position (stock). And once this is completed Sync the (L) TB to the newly adjusted (R) side.

Smoother, better, and everyone likes that change.

(L) = clutch lever (R) = front brake lever


Like RONH said, I have a Harmonizer and I check mine about every six months. Typically it doesn't need much of a change but im very particular on keeping the engine Tip-Top. NOTE: I have run into one or two bikes that the screw is "loose". These two bikes need to have that screw adjusted really often because it vibrates out I guess? The bike starts to not run that great and he knows the issue. I did the adjustments a few times and showed him the situation and now he adjust it all the time. I think on one of the bikes we had to put a new air screw in and that fixed the issue. This is pretty rare, but just a FYI for anyone else reading this post. Ive recently been seeing bikes out of sync by 35-45 points. Thats a lot, normally they are 10-15. It's not like anything will break or leave you stranded but its a GOOD IDEA to keep an eye on the Sync at least once a year, IMOP...............

Thankyou for your reply.

 

[Top Ten]

You're not going to hurt anything........ When you do get around to doing the sync make sure that the (R) side TB is turned out 3/4 of a turn from the screwed in bottomed out position (stock). And once this is completed Sync the (L) TB to the newly adjusted (R) side.

Smoother, better, and everyone likes that change.

(L) = clutch lever (R) = front brake lever


Like RONH said, I have a Harmonizer and I check mine about every six months. Typically it doesn't need much of a change but im very particular on keeping the engine Tip-Top. NOTE: I have run into one or two bikes that the screw is "loose". These two bikes need to have that screw adjusted really often because it vibrates out I guess? The bike starts to not run that great and he knows the issue. I did the adjustments a few times and showed him the situation and now he adjust it all the time. I think on one of the bikes we had to put a new air screw in and that fixed the issue. This is pretty rare, but just a FYI for anyone else reading this post. Ive recently been seeing bikes out of sync by 35-45 points. Thats a lot, normally they are 10-15. It's not like anything will break or leave you stranded but its a GOOD IDEA to keep an eye on the Sync at least once a year, IMOP...............

Just so you know, on my 2018 the left side throttle body screw was painted white, and not the right side. Painted white indicates to me that is the side with the factory setting and the right side is to be adjusted to. To be clear, on my bike, I turned the left side adjustment to 3/4, and then balanced the right side to that. It may not really make any difference; they'll both be synced at approximately 3/4 out.

 

[~TABASCO~]

Just so you know, on my 2018 the left side throttle body screw was painted white, and not the right side. Painted white indicates to me that is the side with the factory setting and the right side is to be adjusted to. To be clear, on my bike, I turned the left side adjustment to 3/4, and then balanced the right side to that. It may not really make any difference; they'll both be synced at approximately 3/4 out.

Yes, I need to make note of that in my post above.... 95%+ of the US Tenere are white marked on the (Right)... Very few I have ever come across are marked on the (Left)..... No matter, the process is the same..... Thanks

 

[siroco]

Hi to all,
Two questions
What are we doing when we turn the TB screew?
Are we adding O2 to the mix?

Could the TB Sync and the 1/2 turning of the screew improve the irregular response at low rpm?
I have a 2018 Euro ST ES, I dont like the bike response at low speed conditions.
Sorry for my poor english

 

[Cantab]

Hi to all,
Two questions
What are we doing when we turn the TB screew?
Are we adding O2 to the mix?

Could the TB Sync and the 1/2 turning of the screew improve the irregular response at low rpm?
I have a 2018 Euro ST ES, I dont like the bike response at low speed conditions.
Sorry for my poor english

Sorry i have no idea to your questions...

I'm new to the S10 and my 16 ES is the same ( like they all are ? ) Even tho its winter here ive turned my traction control off and noticed
a smoother response at low rpm around the 2000 - 3500 rpm in 'S' mode.
My bike has a Arrow header stock pipe and K&N airfilter, dont know if it makes it better or worse.

Your english is good

 

[MattR]

I think the screws adjust the idle speed air/fuel mix.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jbrown]

The screws adjust an air bypass. Like opening the throttle plate slightly. They do not change the fuel mixture. The injection system measures air flow (actually calculates it based on pressure and temperature information), and adds the appropriate amount of fuel for whatever air is flowing. Opening up the bypass adds some air, the computer adds more fuel, and the throttle servo closes the throttle a little to maintain the idle speed. The net effect is to allow equalizing the two cylinders at low engine speeds. If you open them both up the same amount, then the net effect is to position the throttle plates and sensors in a slightly different place. Depending on the "near closed" behavior of the throttle plate control system, this can change the apparent resolution of throttle plate movement. Just positioning at a different throttle sensor position can change the smoothness of slight throttle changes near idle.

 

[siroco]

The screws adjust an air bypass. Like opening the throttle plate slightly. They do not change the fuel mixture. The injection system measures air flow (actually calculates it based on pressure and temperature information), and adds the appropriate amount of fuel for whatever air is flowing. Opening up the bypass adds some air, the computer adds more fuel, and the throttle servo closes the throttle a little to maintain the idle speed. The net effect is to allow equalizing the two cylinders at low engine speeds. If you open them both up the same amount, then the net effect is to position the throttle plates and sensors in a slightly different place. Depending on the "near closed" behavior of the throttle plate control system, this can change the apparent resolution of throttle plate movement. Just positioning at a different throttle sensor position can change the smoothness of slight throttle changes near idle.

thanks! that's the answer I was waiting for.

 

[ballisticexchris]

What I found that is strange is the oil droplets coming out of the capped side. It seems to be normal though. The you tube video on balancing the throttle bodies shows oil coming out of his has well.