swop the yamaha spots for led light bar (help)

bimota

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no,

as i,ve fitted altrider crash bars uppers needed the spots to be removed, so bought a light bar to fit on the upper bar under the headlight
 

yen_powell

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That picture is missing a small white relay with a cable and small plug on it. Connects to the smaller of the black plugs to the left of the three pin white connector
 

bimota

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That picture is missing a small white relay with a cable and small plug on it. Connects to the smaller of the black plugs to the left of the three pin white connector
yen-powell,

in that picture the 3 pin white plug has to black plugs next to it are you saying the smaller of those fits to the white relay if so is as fac181 is saying is the large black plug got a fuse in it

rob
 

tallpaul

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taullpaul,

i would think that the fuse MUST be in that small block of fuses that the 12v auxillary socket fuse is in as these lights were fitted by yamaha using that spot light socket thats on the bike for them, so there must be a fuse in that block for aux lights do you think

rob
Looks like a lot of responses since I posted this morning Rob, hopefully you've found it. I don't have the factory auxiliary lights so I've not found out where the fuse is located.
 

bimota

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Looks like a lot of responses since I posted this morning Rob, hopefully you've found it. I don't have the factory auxiliary lights so I've not found out where the fuse is located.
it looks like its fuse 12 possibly its a 20amp at the mo, you may not know but if its 20amp at themo for the 2 halogen lamps what would you drop it from 20 amp for a 30w led light bar any ideas

rob
 

The Mountain

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Any chance that anyone has the actual wiring diagram for that PIAA harness? If you can suss out what goes where, it should be fairly easy to sort out what needs to be connected to what to make a light bar work (I'm looking at adding a light bar too, so this is useful to me as well).

If I had to guess, the handlebar switch controls a low-amp circuit from the fuse block to a relay. The relay also draws from the fuse block and controls the current to the actual lights (that's the usual way of doing this in a plug-and-play installation). The "proper" way to do this would be to have the circuit for the lights connect directly to the battery, but that takes extra wire and means disassembling more of the bike.

So, presumably, there's a free high-amp terminal somewhere on the fuse block. The whole harness plugs into that terminal, and has two circuit loops: one low-amp with the bar switch that just operates the relay, and one high amp for the lights which should be wired in parallel to each other (so if one dies you'll still have one that works). It's 50/50 whether they have two high-amp switches in the relay for a completely redundant path for each light, or one single path through the relay which splits off to the lights "downstream". Two separate paths is more reliable but means twice as much wire.

You should be able to just seal off one of the light connectors, and connect to the other one to power your bar; you can leave everything else in place. The trick will be to find the matching plug to wire to your lightbar's pigtail so you can quick-connect it. If nothing else, you have a second wiring loop to connect the bar to in case you develop a wiring fault in the loop your bar is currently connected to.
 
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