Suspension links or Dog Bones

SHUMBA

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Hello out there,
I need some advice and help with making a decision about installing some lowering links on my 2018 ES.
The seat height is about an inch too tall for me to feel comfortable.
Yes I have the OEM seat in the lower position. I have researched seats only to find ridiculous prices.
I've found a set of used links, that were on a 2015 Tenere that saw very, very little use.
These links are from a company in in the the U.K.
What is the downside of putting lowering links on this bike?
Will I have to get another side stand? Will the electronic suspension be affected?
How about the front forks. What about the overall handling of the bike along with the effect on the drive shaft?
Just trying to avoid additional expense by having to buy extras to accommodate the links.
Hope to hear from a few owners who have installed the lower links.
It appears to be a pretty straightforward job.. remove two nuts and remove bolts, replace the links and install the bolts and nuts. Not sure of the torque value to secure the nuts. I believe all this can be done on the centre stand.
Blue lok-tight??
Thanks in advance, assistance advice greatly appreciated.
SHUMBA


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bigbob

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Mine is lowered. Forks were loosened and dropped too. Side stand cut and welded shorter.

Slightly less ground clearance but I am not good enough for single track! No impact at all on the ES suspension.
 

SHUMBA

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Mine is lowered. Forks were loosened and dropped too. Side stand cut and welded shorter.

Slightly less ground clearance but I am not good enough for single track! No impact at all on the ES suspension.
Thanks for your input bigbob much appreciated.
I'm not too concerned about the ground clearance as I'm not an off roader.
Mine is a 2018 ES model. It's got an aluminium side stand. Don't think it will bend. I know that older Tenere's had steel side stands. If the front forks were not lowered what would be the result, handling or steering??
SHUMBA






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EricV

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What is the downside of putting lowering links on this bike?
Will I have to get another side stand? Will the electronic suspension be affected?
How about the front forks. What about the overall handling of the bike along with the effect on the drive shaft?
Just trying to avoid additional expense by having to buy extras to accommodate the links.
Hope to hear from a few owners who have installed the lower links.
It appears to be a pretty straightforward job.. remove two nuts and remove bolts, replace the links and install the bolts and nuts. Not sure of the torque value to secure the nuts. I believe all this can be done on the centre stand.
Blue lok-tight??
Thanks in advance, assistance advice greatly appreciated.
SHUMBA
Downside is loss in ground clearance. The only time I noticed it on the street is when I found a dip in the pavement mid corner. Nothing dramatic, just wacked the rear of the crash bars on the ground as the suspension compressed. It will wake you up when it occurs.

You won't have to change the side stand, but you will probably want to. Either by shortening the stock stand or buying an adjustable stand. The stock Gen II side stand is about $100 USD, but the Gen I steel side stand is only $55 USD, ($74 CAD), and the steel side stand will be easier to have shortened. I seem to recall your side stand foot was for a Gen I anyway, so should move over easily. Sides stands swap directly from Gen I and II w/o modifications.

The center stand will require you to ride up on a 2x4 to use.

The forks will need to be moved up 13mm in the triple trees. This is a no cost task. It shouldn't be a problem with an ES.

No impact on the drive shaft. Insignificant angle change.

If you move the forks up 13mm, (not 12mm, not 14mm), the handling will remain neutral with the same feeling it had before you lowered it.

There are adjustable side stands, but over $200 CAD. There are some inexpensive China made ones too. No idea if this would work or not, but considering the steel lower part, it would be easy enough to have a larger foot welded on. LINK For $15.60 CAD it might be worth a try. There are a bunch of allow adjustable 'universal fit' side stands on ebay Canada too. Running around ~$20 CAN.

Yes, you can swap the lowering links in while on the center stand. (No locktite on nylock nuts). Blue otherwise is fine. The torque value for those nuts is 59 Nm (43 Ft/Lbs). Some find it necessary to move the exhaust a bit on some bikes in order to get the bolts out all the way.
 

SHUMBA

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Downside is loss in ground clearance. The only time I noticed it on the street is when I found a dip in the pavement mid corner. Nothing dramatic, just wacked the rear of the crash bars on the ground as the suspension compressed. It will wake you up when it occurs.

You won't have to change the side stand, but you will probably want to. Either by shortening the stock stand or buying an adjustable stand. The stock Gen II side stand is about $100 USD, but the Gen I steel side stand is only $55 USD, ($74 CAD), and the steel side stand will be easier to have shortened. I seem to recall your side stand foot was for a Gen I anyway, so should move over easily. Sides stands swap directly from Gen I and II w/o modifications.

The center stand will require you to ride up on a 2x4 to use.

The forks will need to be moved up 13mm in the triple trees. This is a no cost task. It shouldn't be a problem with an ES.

No impact on the drive shaft. Insignificant angle change.

If you move the forks up 13mm, (not 12mm, not 14mm), the handling will remain neutral with the same feeling it had before you lowered it.

There are adjustable side stands, but over $200 CAD. There are some inexpensive China made ones too. No idea if this would work or not, but considering the steel lower part, it would be easy enough to have a larger foot welded on. LINK For $15.60 CAD it might be worth a try. There are a bunch of allow adjustable 'universal fit' side stands on ebay Canada too. Running around ~$20 CAN.

Yes, you can swap the lowering links in while on the center stand. (No locktite on nylock nuts). Blue otherwise is fine. The torque value for those nuts is 59 Nm (43 Ft/Lbs). Some find it necessary to move the exhaust a bit on some bikes in order to get the bolts out all the way.
Thank you so much EricV.
For the most informative information on the effects of installing lowering links on the Tenere.
As I've indicated previously, I just want to lower my seat height by an inch without a lot of fuss or side effects.
This should be a reversable alteration if so desired as one day I will sell the bike to possibly, a taller person.
I can deal with the centre stand, that is run the bike up onto a 2x4, side stand????
Now for the front forks, measure 3 times and adjust once.
I'll have to figure this out because it's all new territory for me. I'm not an off roader so not a factor.
Again, appreciate your advice and input.
SHUMBA



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B

ballisticexchris

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Hi there Shumba, have you considered practicing planting one foot at a time on the ground. I’m short legged as well. I used to struggle with tall bikes but no longer. After I got my KTM 300 in 05 I learned a lot picking my way through rocks to do the one foot planted technique. On the Super Tenere it’s easy to practice on center stand. Just slide your butt off one side or the other. The most important thing is too also keep one of your feet on a peg at all times.
 

SHUMBA

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Hi there Shumba, have you considered practicing planting one foot at a time on the ground. I’m short legged as well. I used to struggle with tall bikes but no longer. After I got my KTM 300 in 05 I learned a lot picking my way through rocks to do the one foot planted technique. On the Super Tenere it’s easy to practice on center stand. Just slide your butt off one side or the other. The most important thing is too also keep one of your feet on a peg at all times.
Not sure how much a KTM 300 weighs, but likely in the neighbourhood of 325 lbs.
TheTenere is just over 600 including gas oil and farkles, lights crash bars.
I don't think I can pick it up on my own. Fortunately, I've had help both times it fell over.
When I come to a stop, it's always left foot down after ensuring the bike is in first gear, right foot on or guarding the brake.
I believe this is the correct way to do it. I don't "duck walk" either....looks ridiculous.
Occasionally I have placed my left foot into uneven terrain and I'm unable to upright the bike because I cannot reach the ground. By lowering the bike 30 mm it should do the trick for me.
I'm going to ride with the dog bones lowering links without adjusting the front suspension triple tree.
EricV said to lower the front suspension by 13 mm to return the bike to the same dynamics.
Anyone out there who has installed a lowering link kit and did not adjust the front suspension??
It looks like I would have to remove the left hand crash bar, fairings on both sides to access the bolts to adjust the front forks.
SHUMBA



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VPS1

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I did lowering links, bought a new center and side stand that I sent to Jaxon and he shortened both. I lowered the forks too. Very happy with it. I use a low Tourarech seat in the low position for anything but highway miles, then I put it in the high position, much better for the knees! Mine is a 2012.


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SHUMBA

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I did lowering links, bought a new center and side stand that I sent to Jaxon and he shortened both. I lowered the forks too. Very happy with it. I use a low Tourarech seat in the low position for anything but highway miles, then I put it in the high position, much better for the knees! Mine is a 2012.


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Thanks for your reply and info VPS1 appreciate that.
I'm hoping to avoid having to shorten or replace the side stand. I only use the centre stand for maintenance in my garage, and as EricV pointed out just run the rear tyre up onto a 2 x 4 for ground clearance.
As mentioned earlier I plan to ride it without adjusting the front end and then decide what to do.
All in all it's good to be informed because I don't like surprises and thanks to forum members I have gained a good understanding and insight into what to expect when installing a lowering link kit.
SHUMBA



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EricV

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T
As mentioned earlier I plan to ride it without adjusting the front end and then decide what to do.
What you will notice is that the steering is slowed. Lowering the rear slows steering input. It will feel sluggish on turn in. Raising the rear quickens turn in. Some like the effect and raise the rear w/o doing fork changes. That's one thing. Lowering the rear w/o fork changes is not something I've ever heard anyone liking. Take if for a ride. then install the lowering links and take it for a ride that same day. Then adjust the fork tubes up 13mm and take it for a ride. I can guarantee you won't put the forks back to stock height while you have the lowering links on.
 

Mak10

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So are there bones to raise the bike for more ground clearance? And if so can you lower the front forks?
 

Don in Lodi

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Forks can't be made to ride higher through their clamps... a fork rebuild with different rate springs and valving can raise the bike. Shumba should be able to get to the clamps without pulling the bike apart.
 

EricV

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So are there bones to raise the bike for more ground clearance? And if so can you lower the front forks?
There are raising links sold in various sizes. More for handling changes than for ground clearance.
LINK (+10 to +50mm) LINK for ES Kit +20mm

IMHO, Don is correct, it would be a Bad Idea™ to try and lower the fork tubes in the triple trees, leaving un-supported fork tube at the top. Better to talk to a suspension shop about your needs for that.
 

SHUMBA

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What you will notice is that the steering is slowed. Lowering the rear slows steering input. It will feel sluggish on turn in. Raising the rear quickens turn in. Some like the effect and raise the rear w/o doing fork changes. That's one thing. Lowering the rear w/o fork changes is not something I've ever heard anyone liking. Take if for a ride. then install the lowering links and take it for a ride that same day. Then adjust the fork tubes up 13mm and take it for a ride. I can guarantee you won't put the forks back to stock height while you have the lowering links on.
Thanks EricV, sounds like great advice.
I haven't received the links yet, should have them next week.
At a glance, it appears that I will have to move the exhaust pipe to slide out one of the bolts that holds the links.

I had a close look at the bike's front forks and I see an allen bolt at the top of each fork tube that has to be loosened to make this adjustment. Also there are two 10 mm bolts on the lower area of the forks. Looks like I would need a special tool to get in and loosen these bolts, two on each fork, not much room down there.
I'll continue to gather more information prior to attempting this task.
Appreciate your advice and support.
Thanks
SHUMBA

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EricV

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I use a shortened allen socket bit on a ratchet. A normal allen wrench, L shape, should also work, as I recall. Torque values there are low. I'd need to double check, but I recall 11 ft/lbs on one set and 14 ft/lbs on the other.
 

SHUMBA

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I use a shortened allen socket bit on a ratchet. A normal allen wrench, L shape, should also work, as I recall. Torque values there are low. I'd need to double check, but I recall 11 ft/lbs on one set and 14 ft/lbs on the other.
I have a good L shape allen key that fits tightly into the two top bolts one on each fork.
Down below is the tricky part as the two bolts, two on each fork are difficult to access.
SHUMBA

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EricV

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1/4" drive ratchet and turn the forks to the side.
 

SHUMBA

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1/4" drive ratchet and turn the forks to the side.
Exactly, I have just had another look at this from different angles and if I come up from the bottom of the cowels I am able to attach a 10 mm socket on a 1/2 inch ratchet.
Yes, simply by turning the steering permits the clearance necessary to access these bolts.
If you come across the exact torque specs please let me know.
The torque would be a relatively low value due to the size or diameter of the bolts.
I have a small plastic measuring device that I often use.
First I will clean the fork tubes then gently loosen the bottom bolts on both sides.
Then gently loosen the two top allen screws. I could place a little Jack under the outside of the front axel and slowly raise the front tire which should cause the forks to rise. I will measure at the top of the forks to determine the change.
Please let me know if you think this method will work.
Thanks again EricV for your kind assistance.
SHUMBA


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EricV

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Exactly, I have just had another look at this from different angles and if I come up from the bottom of the cowels I am able to attach a 10 mm socket on a 1/2 inch ratchet.
Yes, simply by turning the steering permits the clearance necessary to access these bolts.
If you come across the exact torque specs please let me know.
Torque specs - Top allen is 19/ft/lbs. Bottom hex cap bolts are 14 ft/lbs.

First I will clean the fork tubes then gently loosen the bottom bolts on both sides.
Then gently loosen the two top allen screws. I could place a little Jack under the outside of the front axel and slowly raise the front tire which should cause the forks to rise. I will measure at the top of the forks to determine the change.
Please let me know if you think this method will work.
My opinion is that you would be better off removing the front wheel before loosening anything. If you have the calipers off and tied out of the way, the front fender off and the wheel off, there isn't any weight pulling the forks down. A pocket scale in mm will be your friend in setting the height of the fork tubes over the top TT. A decent pocket scale is not expensive.

Remember that the lower fork leg rotates on the upper tube and has no specific orientation. If you have an ES, pay attention to the cables, but you should have no problem twisting a little and moving the forks up, one at a time, then snugging the bolts lightly before torquing them down once you are happy with the position.

Putting the bike on the center stand and either weighting the back of the bike with something, (sack of dog food, fertilizer, luggage full, etc), or tying it down, will keep the front off the ground while you work.
 
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ballisticexchris

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You can also put a jack stand under the front crash bars to hold it up. Let us know how those lowering links and fork raise work out. I'm actually getting well used to the stock setup. OTOH if you are happy with the modification then that's what matters.
 
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