Suspect Rectifier/Regulator

[oKLRider]

I believe you should measure with the system/battery connectet to R/R

I don't think I would do it that way. Check right at the battery with everything hooked up and that will tell you how many volts is getting to the battery. To check the stator output you unplug the stator and check between the three white wires. A to B, A to C and B to C. This is AC voltage and with the engine revved I would expect to get 60-70 volts AC. The RR takes this AC current and turns it into DC to charge the battery.

I'm with you, but was trying to discern what the Service Manual shows. AC voltage is good to go with the new stator.

 

[oKLRider]

 

[Checkswrecks]

Glad you found the problem and thanks for posting!

 

[oKLRider]

Update....my problem, or a new problem, is back!

Everything was running fine up from my last post date. This was after the fried stator was replaced with a new one from RMStator. Fast forward to December'ish. Battery starts acting flaky, like it won't hold a charge. This progresses into the battery dropping significantly (below 9v) while cranking. Pulled the battery, took it to the local battery place, and wouldn't you know that it was out of warranty by a couple of weeks. They did help me out with a reduced price new one, though.

New battery in, and all is right with the world. Fast forward to the following week, and I have to jump start it to get home! This is on a bike that's ridden daily, albeit that my commute is relatively short with little freeway time, but still. Off come the side panels, and I can't seem to get more than 12.7-12.8vdc at the battery, either at idle or RPM. I immediately regret my decision of only replacing the stator, and not the R/R at the same time. RMStator.com, new mosfet R/R, add to cart, a few days later and it's installed. Good to go? Not so much.

I'm still struggling to hit 13vdc at the battery, at RPM. If I hold it long enough, it creeps up, but way too slow, and nothing north of 13vdc. Broke out the multimeter, and checked the stator thinking maybe my original R/R fried the new stator, but it's putting out ~26vac on all three legs at idle, and 60-80vac when revved. Pulled the R/R connector, and reading 15.5vdc at the regulator...so it's making voltage.

Next step...unhook all accessories, and see if there's a power draw somewhere. Disconnected aux lights (3x 28W pods). Recheck battery voltage while running, same. Disconnect GPS plug, same. Disconnect Skene dimmer, same. Disconnect left LED headlight (30W) bulb, voltage improves slightly! Disconnect right LED headlight bulb, and I can consistently get 13vdc at RPM. There should be enough power output to run everything mentioned, and still get 13-14vdc at RPM...

I've ran the above electrical accessory setup for years with no problems (other than the occasional left headlight bulb burning out, but "they all do that?!"). It's recently had the throttle body recall done, but I don't think the problem is related. It's also had the headlight harness recall done, but that was years ago. Now I'm sitting here, scratching my head, and wondering what I'm missing??

Edit: I just remembered that I added LED signal bulbs (fore/aft), and a new LED flasher relay. Surely that's not it, but it's getting checked now!

Edit: Flasher relay out of the system, no change. Tried a different multimeter for fun. I'm still not getting the 14vdc I'd expect, but it does creep up slowly...about 0.01v every couple of seconds at RPM. It will eventually make it around 13.3vdc, but the headers are hating life. Wayyy too slow in my mind.

Thanks!
-Luke

 

[dmulk]

Thanks for documenting this! The "KLR" in your DNA is showing up right now! (I was also a KLR owner and recognize the persistence!)

 

[Xclimation]

Have ALL the grounding points and connections been checked?

 

[oKLRider]

Have ALL the grounding points and connections been checked?

Main ground to the case is tight, and negative battery terminal is tight.

Edit: I haven't pulled the case ground to check for corrosion, but will. The ground strap has never been removed though.

 

[DYNOBOB]

For what it's worth... Teneres have one of the best r/r in the motorcycle world. Yamaha was the first to use a mosfet style regulator starting with the FJR1300. The early Teneres have a Shindingen FH012AA part number and at some point (maybe the '14 refresh?) switched to an even better FH020AA (my '15 has it). Physically they are the same so if you're purchasing a new one I'd upgrade. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHINDENGEN-FH020AA-REGULATOR-YAMAHA-1D7-81960-00-00-GENUINE-SHINDENGEN/360642763427?epid=1911867374&hash=item53f7fbdaa3:g:mX4AAOSw4shYBOkF:rk:7:pf:0

I rewired my Husky TE630 charging system to use the FH020AA unit and the voltage is much more stable. Guys are using the Yamaha r/r on lots of other bikes (VFR, WeeStroms, Triumphs, etc).

Regarding your problem, I'd check for any intermediate connectors in the harness between the r/r and battery to see if you have corrosion or melted plugs. Also, IIRC my Husky manual warns not to run the bike without the battery hooked to the r/r...

Good luck!

.

 

[SparrowHawkxx]

You might check this connector. link
I am not sure what circuits this impacts but it is in a ground path and is easy to check.

 

[gv550]

Main ground to the case is tight, and negative battery terminal is tight.

Edit: I haven't pulled the case ground to check for corrosion, but will. The ground strap has never been removed though.

Check the ground cable itself, for resistance. A loose or corroded crimp can result in poor charging and low voltage,

 

[Checkswrecks]

With a 6 year old bike, I doubt this is model specific and would start with a can of contact cleaner and dielectric grease. Open, clean, and grease every connector possible.

 

[oKLRider]

You might check this connector. link
I am not sure what circuits this impacts but it is in a ground path and is easy to check.

Thanks for the link! After checking both of those plugs, the black one had some dirt in it. Not enough that I thought it would cause a problem, but blew it out, re-greased it, and now I'm getting +14vdc at RPM (without my aux lights plugged in)...and much faster increase in voltage when revving.

With the aux lights back in the system I'm still struggling to get anything over +13.3~vdc. Next step is to check all of those connections, and re-grease them as well.

 

[oKLRider]

With a 6 year old bike, I doubt this is model specific and would start with a can of contact cleaner and dielectric grease. Open, clean, and grease every connector possible.

Agreed. Most all of my connections get dielectric grease during regular maintenance, but I'm going back over all of them. The thing admittedly sees lots of dirt, and not many baths.

Thanks to all for the post(s).

 

[SparrowHawkxx]

Thanks for the link! After checking both of those plugs, the black one had some dirt in it. Not enough that I thought it would cause a problem, but blew it out, re-greased it, and now I'm getting +14vdc at RPM (without my aux lights plugged in)...and much faster increase in voltage when revving.

With the aux lights back in the system I'm still struggling to get anything over +13.3~vdc. Next step is to check all of those connections, and re-grease them as well.

I do not know the wattage on your lights but that may be about right.

Here are a some rough numbers for you to compare to.
I have a good voltmeter mounted on my 2013 and it measures to .1 volt.

It normally runs at 14.0 - 14.1 V
With my Oxford heated grips on it will drop about 0.1 V
When my wife has her 90W heated liner on, the voltage drops about 0.5 V
With her 30W heated gloves on, it will drop about 0.1 V
With the heated grips, heated liner, and heated gloves, I get about 0.7 V drop. The meter will read 13.3 - 13.4 V.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Make sure you clean and grease the connector between the regulator and alternator. (Seems to me it's just the one.)

 

[oKLRider]

I do not know the wattage on your lights but that may be about right.

Here are a some rough numbers for you to compare to.
I have a good voltmeter mounted on my 2013 and it measures to .1 volt.

It normally runs at 14.0 - 14.1 V
With my Oxford heated grips on it will drop about 0.1 V
When my wife has her 90W heated liner on, the voltage drops about 0.5 V
With her 30W heated gloves on, it will drop about 0.1 V
With the heated grips, heated liner, and heated gloves, I get about 0.7 V drop. The meter will read 13.3 - 13.4 V.

Yeah, my aux lights are pulling 84W...not counting the LED headlamps (30W ea), so my voltage probably isn’t too far off. Connections look good otherwise, but I’ll probably get one of those power port voltmeters just to keep an eye on it.

 

[Kevs]

Yeah, my aux lights are pulling 84W...not counting the LED headlamps (30W ea), so my voltage probably isn’t too far off. Connections look good otherwise, but I’ll probably get one of those power port voltmeters just to keep an eye on it.

Hi!

would like to inquire how is the RMStator coil so far?

 

[EricV]

That's the first fried stator I've seen at such low mileage. The other was at over 200k. When you get things together, check for dark current. And get the battery load tested while you're waiting on parts, just to rule that out as an extra draw from a bad cell.

Edit - missed this was an older thread. Likely all sorted now.

 

[oKLRider]

That's the first fried stator I've seen at such low mileage. The other was at over 200k. When you get things together, check for dark current. And get the battery load tested while you're waiting on parts, just to rule that out as an extra draw from a bad cell.

Edit - missed this was an older thread. Likely all sorted now.

Thanks for the post, but yes all sorted now...I hope. I did end up having a bad cell, and with a new one in place I’ve been good to go for the last couple thousand miles.

 

[oKLRider]

Hi!

would like to inquire how is the RMStator coil so far?

So far, so good!