Stripped oil pan dilemma

[OldRider]

I'm going to take a wild guess and say I've tightened at least 20 thousand oil drain plugs and never used a torque wrench and never stripped one. Use a new crush washer every time and just get them snug. It's not rocket science.

 

[richarddacat]

I'm going to take a wild guess and say I've tightened at least 20 thousand oil drain plugs and never used a torque wrench and never stripped one. Use a new crush washer every time and just get them snug. It's not rocket science.

DITTO

But no one is perfect and I’ve screwed the pooch before too. Just want to sympathize with those who have gotten carried away with the torque wrench or cheater-bar.
It’s a real pisser when you screw your new bike up.

 

[Senor Ramon]

You're not the first to do this. Options are available.

Self tapping drain plug from most auto parts stores. 1/2" size usually works well.

Time Sert thread repair device. Solid insert that if done correctly can last the life of the bike.

Helicoil insert. Harder to get right, not as stable for something that routinely gets removed and replaced, but still viable solution.

New Pan. Check for availability, you might be surprised and be able to get one over night, (for extra $$$).

Remove pan, have it welded and re-tapped by a local shop. Cost about what a new pan will cost.

Good luck!

Eric,

I was changing the oil today and noticed this happened to me too. The drain plug would tighten, then loosen. I removed it and foind the oil pan threads on the bolt.

Since I have never rethreaded anything (tap and die, helicoil, time sert). Would a salf tapping drain plug be a good choice? Should I just remove the drain plug and take it to the auto parts store for a self tapping drain plug and gasket? Should I ask for the next size up? Thanks.

 

[Don in Lodi]

I don't think there is enough material there to run an oversized drain plug in there. It may even crack the pan.

 

[Senor Ramon]

I don't think there is enough material there to run an oversized drain plug in there. It may even crack the pan.

Don,

I tried to revive this thread, but posted a new thread as well. I think Sierra1 is right. I think I may need to drop the pan. It may be more cost effective to just buy a new pan and gaskets vs. removing the pan and paying a machinist to install a Time Sert. Real bummer though.

 

[Vanny]

I’m looking to do my first oil change on my 2011 XT. Done a few vans/cars , me and my son “serviced” his MT 125 yesterday , which was quite fiddly.

I can get to my drain plugs easily through the sump guard, my question though is I’ve noticed there different sizes, the plug nearest the rear wheel is smaller than the Front one ?
Reading about peoples issues stripping them I’m just concerned if mines already had issues and I don’t want to compound them. I have already swopped out my air filter , must say I prefer working on a bigger bike rather than the 125 !
Thanks for any reply’s.

 

[bimota]

I’m looking to do my first oil change on my 2011 XT. Done a few vans/cars , me and my son “serviced” his MT 125 yesterday , which was quite fiddly.

I can get to my drain plugs easily through the sump guard, my question though is I’ve noticed there different sizes, the plug nearest the rear wheel is smaller than the Front one ?
Reading about peoples issues stripping them I’m just concerned if mines already had issues and I don’t want to compound them. I have already swopped out my air filter , must say I prefer working on a bigger bike rather than the 125 !
Thanks for any reply’s.

that don,t sound right i just checked my 2 drain bolts and i,ve had mine from new 8 yrs there the same size as in this video

rob