Steering top nut found loose.

[Masterkick]

Started noticing a slight creak when turning. Investigated yesterday and found the top nut loose on the triple tree. I'm not a motorcycle mechanic but it's the top nut with the rubber cap on it between the handle bar mounts. What I want to know is can I simply re tighten this to the proper torque spec. Also does anyone know what size nut this is? My largest socket is 19mm. I have a set of calipers I may go measure the nut with.
Bike is a 2013 that I bought new in May of 2015. I've put 7400 miles on it this summer. All the threads I've read on the issue have not been commented on since 2012 so I thought I should start a new thread.

 

[Dogdaze]

Started noticing a slight creak when turning. Investigated yesterday and found the top nut loose on the triple tree. I'm not a motorcycle mechanic but it's the top nut with the rubber cap on it between the handle bar mounts. What I want to know is can I simply re tighten this to the proper torque spec. Also does anyone know what size nut this is? My largest socket is 19mm. I have a set of calipers I may go measure the nut with.
Bike is a 2013 that I bought new in May of 2015. I've put 7400 miles on it this summer. All the threads I've read on the issue have not been commented on since 2012 so I thought I should start a new thread.

27mm nut. Don't know torque spec off hand, but look at the old thread someone may have listed it.

 

[EricV]

The torque spec is 130Nm (94 ft/lbs). Yes, you can just re-torque it down if you wish. This is not uncommon for newer Super Teneres, but often the nuts that secure the steering head are loose too as the bearings have seated down. That process is a little more involved with snugging the lower nut to a higher spec, then backing it off and torquing it to a low spec.

If you push the front wheel up against a wall or curb, lock the front break, then bounce back and forth and it doesn't make any clicking or noise, the steering stem is likely fine. At some point it will be a Good Idea™ to re-torque the steering stem bearing nuts though. Keep that in mind for your next service point. It requires a special wrench or socket to properly torque the nuts.

 

[patrickg450]

the tool kit that comes with it has the wrench..............

usually I simply discard it and add my own tools that are better quality. Well hell I was on a ride this past summer and I had a nice mid speed lay down on a hard bottom water crossing. After the pick up and toweling off I did the once over inspection. Rode for a few miles and stopped as something was amiss. Yep the steering bearings (nut) was loose. I have had this happen on my dirt bikes and did just what the others said. I few turns and tighten her up..............no biggie.

Well this go 'round was on the side of a road out in the middle of nowhere. After the problem was identified I simply assumed I was SOL and was going to use a adjustable wrench or some channel locks............what ever. So after I got my kit out and both buddies did we fumbled away for a few seconds. Then one saw the goofy wrench in my kit. Funny as I have seen ones similar in ALL my past kits and usually discard them. I bought one of those funny tools that allows me to remove the tires by inserting the tool into the axle and using a wrench to remove either wheel. I do think it is unlikely I will ever remove the wheel on the side of the road but hell I packed it it anyway.

Well it turns out that funny tool was left in there as it will hold the axle tool, as well as the steering bearing, go figure. You do have to flip it over as it has an offset to it but it worked. Easiest IMO is have the bike on the center stand and rock it back. With the front tire off the ground give her a few turns and have you buddy pick up or check the front end for slop. You can test side to side while seated on the bike.



Hope this helps, had the answer before my post but it was my last ride and still fresh in my head.

 

[EricV]

@ Patrickg450 - I'm not visualizing how you tightened the steering bearing nuts w/o removing the upper triple tree. How about a picture of the tool you used from the oem kit?

 

[patrickg450]

at work now, give her a look when I get home.

 

[v-lad63]

Hi everybody!
I`m from Russia, so please be bearable to "Russian" English ::012::
I also found that nuts loose on my 2011 ST. I was going to replace steering bearings so I disassembled triple tree and found rubber washer (90202-28216-00) between 2 bearings nuts.
Could this washer cause loose nuts? I think upper nut should work as jam-nut, but I can hardly imagine how it can jam via piece of rubber.
What do you think?

 

[Dogdaze]

Hi everybody!
I`m from Russia, so please be bearable to "Russian" English ::012::
I also found that nuts loose on my 2011 ST. I was going to replace steering bearings so I disassembled triple tree and found rubber washer (90202-28216-00) between 2 bearings nuts.
Could this washer cause loose nuts? I think upper nut should work as jam-nut, but I can hardly imagine how it can jam via piece of rubber.
What do you think?

Welcome v-lad63, I'm not sure the two nuts act as a traditional locking / jam nut. It works in combination of the headstock / triple tree nut to lock everything in place.....

 

[patrickg450]

more better?

 

[EricV]

Item number 6, (Washer, special), locks the two steering bearing nuts together. The torque is only about 13 ft/lbs, if I recall correctly, so combined with the top triple tree nut at 90+ ft/lbs, it should do well except when the bearings seat in and there is excessive play as a result. I wouldn't think the two nuts would come loose themselves.

http://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004d843f87002275461de7d/steering

 

[patrickg450]

so you can only turn a small amount as it will hit the other side of the riser..........well flip the wrench over. it has on offset, the black tool is my wheel remover do hickey.

 

[EricV]

so you can only turn a small amount as it will hit the other side of the riser..........well flip the wrench over. it has on offset, the black tool is my wheel remover do hickey.

All clear now. Thanks for posting the picture. ::008:: I did not get one of those tools in my oem tool kit. Did you buy your bike new or used?

That nut just holds the top triple tree in place. The steering stem bearing nuts, LINK #4 are locked together by #6, (washer, special). The bottom nut is torqued with this tool:

The top #4 nut doesn't get torqued, just snugged down on that rubber washer between them, then you drop the locking washer, (#6), over them both.

 

[v-lad63]

I made my own tool different way-bought 32 mm socket, find a piece of pipe with required ID, than anglr grinder+welder. Original Yamaha tool costs here around 150$ including delivery and takes 3-4 weeks

 

[EricV]

I like the socket tool better than the spanner version. There is a fellow in the UK that makes the socket type too. He can be reached at turbosuzukis@yahoo.co.uk Originally I made my own from a generic tool. Just nipped off the end and machined a square hole for the torque wrench. This is the home made tool I used for several years with my FJR.

 

[patrickg450]

All clear now. Thanks for posting the picture. ::008:: I did not get one of those tools in my oem tool kit. Did you buy your bike new or used?

That nut just holds the top triple tree in place. The steering stem bearing nuts, LINK #4 are locked together by #6, (washer, special). The bottom nut is torqued with this tool:

The top #4 nut doesn't get torqued, just snugged down on that rubber washer between them, then you drop the locking washer, (#6), over them both.

Ya know I could be wrong.............had so many bikes and ALWAYS modify my tool kit. This one says Yamaha on it, so I ASSume it came with the ST.

 

[AVGeek]

There was a member on the FJR Forum who made a tool similar to the one v-lad63 made. I still have the tool, but I don't remember if I used it on the ST or not, but I seem to recall some chatter that it was the same...