Sparkplugs

[WJBertrand]

Which is the correct number? Looks like the ones in the video are CPR8EAIX-9 not CPR8EIX-9?

 

[ballisticexchris]

I've been just kicking back, watching Netflix and checking out plugs for the heck of it last few hours. CPR8EIX-9 does not exist as far as I know. The CPR8EAIX-9 is the correct number.

Here is where it gets really strange. There are 2 identical part numbers for this plug. One has the bare screw and the other has the insulator tip. The one with the "fat tip" crosses over as a direct replacement for the OEM CPR8EB-9 plug. It costs a few Euros more.

https://japansparkplugs.com/boutique/en/search?controller=search&orderby=price&orderway=asc&search_query=+CPR8EAIX-9+&submit_search=

Tabasco is smart by using this website to buy plugs. I really don't trust Ebay for these.

 

[~TABASCO~]

I've been just kicking back, watching Netflix and checking out plugs for the heck of it last few hours. CPR8EIX-9 does not exist as far as I know. The CPR8EAIX-9 is the correct number.

Here is where it gets really strange. There are 2 identical part numbers for this plug. One has the bare screw and the other has the insulator tip. The one with the "fat tip" crosses over as a direct replacement for the OEM CPR8EB-9 plug. It costs a few Euros more.

https://japansparkplugs.com/boutique/en/search?controller=search&orderby=price&orderway=asc&search_query=+CPR8EAIX-9+&submit_search=

Tabasco is smart by using this website to buy plugs. I really don't trust Ebay for these.

Yep, lots of good reviews from Japan spark plugs web site. With the home work I did, I was convinced that these plugs off eBay are probably fake. I’ve had good luck with Japan plugs.

 

[ballisticexchris]

Yep, lots of good reviews from Japan spark plugs web site. With the home work I did, I was convinced that these plugs off eBay are probably fake. I’ve had good luck with Japan plugs.

I agree 100%!! Ebay is hit and miss for sure!!

 

[~TABASCO~]

Just reference photos.

 

[Garrydymond]

I will be replacing the plugs and air filter along with other routinue maintenance next week in preparation for a trip from Mexico City to The Great Lakes. I have seen a couple of videos and it looks fairly straight forward. My question is will the spsrkplug caps/ come out without disconnecting the wire from the coil. I have read conflicting reports and figured that Tabasco must know.
Thanks for any help.

 

[artemedes]

I just added the "-914" O-rings to the spark plug towers this morning. So I didn't actually remove/replace the spark plugs. However, to add the O-ring you have to remove the coils/tower/cap (whatever you want to call it).

The clip the is very easy to undo and it seemed like the easiest way to remove the "coil/towers" was to un-clip them. I just did one at a time to make sure I didn't get the firing order out of whack. When I re-installed them I just made sure the clip was secure and made a good click. By disconnecting them first, you wont yank on the wires when you go to pull the tower out. Much safer and easier that way.

 

[ballisticexchris]

Holy crap!! I was comparing the ones you got to the Ebay ones that tallpaul purchased. What a bummer Paul got phony ones. This is in no way to offend you Paul. I too have been a victim of fake Ebay stuff over the years.

Just reference photos.

Ebay fake NGK:


VS the real deal from Japan plugs:


It would be hard to tell without seeing the packaging side by side.

 

[tallpaul]

When I researched what fake NGK plugs looked like the stuff I read covered things like the threads (cut, not rolled), plating quality and engraving font detail on the plugs themselves. I also compared the quality of those features against the plugs I removed. Certainly if I had even the slightest doubt then I wouldn't have installed them and would have shouted out on here to beware of them. If mine start to give issues then I will give feedback on here. As it is, I'm still happy with them.

 

[ballisticexchris]

When I researched what fake NGK plugs looked like the stuff I read covered things like the threads (cut, not rolled), plating quality and engraving font detail on the plugs themselves. I also compared the quality of those features against the plugs I removed. Certainly if I had even the slightest doubt then I wouldn't have installed them and would have shouted out on here to beware of them. If mine start to give issues then I will give feedback on here. As it is, I'm still happy with them.

Main thing is they work. I had a similar experience with some silicone hoses I bought on Ebay. They looked and felt exactly like the expensive Samco hoses. Unfortunately they ruptured after a few seasons. Oh well lesson learned.

 

[Garrydymond]

I replaced the plugs today. I don’t know if my bike is different, it’s a 2014 model, but it had this connection on plug number 1 and 4. It was on top of the coil/plug cap. I put them back where they came from and the bike started and idled fine. I will give it a test run tomorrow.

 

[ballisticexchris]

Well I just got my plugs. Could not find them anywhere in the US. I had to special order them from Japan. The price is about what you would pay here. With shipping its right at 72.00 for a set of 4. Just use PayPal. It will automatically covert into US currency. I ordered them on the 14th and got them on my doorstep the 24th.
https://japansparkplugs.com/boutique/fr/bougies-ngk/1236-1x-cpr8ebix-9b.html

I use NGK Iridium plugs in most everything I own. They simply last longer than any other plug. These projected tip plugs are really hard to find in Iridium style.

Please note the part number. There are two different CPR8EIX-9 plugs. One has the screw on tip and one does not. If the tip is solid and does not screw on that's a counterfeit. Almost all NGK plugs sold on Ebay and Amazon are fake.


The ones that cross over to the OEM CPR8EB-9 are these:

 

[WJBertrand]

View attachment 56122I replaced the plugs today. I don’t know if my bike is different, it’s a 2014 model, but it had this connection on plug number 1 and 4. It was on top of the coil/plug cap. I put them back where they came from and the bike started and idled fine. I will give it a test run tomorrow.

It looks like that loop should be swiveled over to align with the hold down bolt.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Grumpy]

With 60000 k/39000miles on the clock this is what I found. Looking L to R (sitting on the bike) 1, 3 and 4 still look OK, number 2 has water damage, but the electrode looks no worse than the others. I have replaced them with the same NGK standard plugs, if I get this kind of mileage out of them, I can't see me needing Iridium.
I found the worst part of the job was getting the pipe that's underneath the air box back on. I eventually swapped out the wide spring clip for a slightly narrower one that my pliers can get a better grip of.

 

[ballisticexchris]

My gosh!! So much for following the service schedule.

 

[Grumpy]

My gosh!! So much for following the service schedule.

I do feel a bit guilty about the time it's taken me to get round to doing them I could check the plugs on my XJR 1300 in the time it takes just to get the tank and airbox out of the way on the S10.

 

[ballisticexchris]

It's cool Grumpy. One of the reasons guys buy these bikes is because they can beat the crap out of them and they still run like a top. I'm really making every effort to follow the required service schedule the best I can. I'm not retired so my riding time is limited.

 

[Garrydymond]

It looks like that loop should be swiveled over to align with the hold down bolt.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yes I swiveled it and bolted it down.

 

[Farbar]

Just in case any one is looking for another alternative, I've been running E3 plugs for 16km now. My OEM factory ones looked good too at 28km and i decided to give these a try. the ones you're looking for are E3.38 . A couple of long hauls, one accross Labrador and it still feels smooth, no issues, easy 2, max 3 revs to start, nothing wierd accross all rpms. At 40km I had to do a valve clearance check which led to a valve adjustment, two exhausts were tight at .203mm (what a PITA, this job, loved this bike right up til then) The plugs looked barely discoloured. I run a booster plug, to go slightly richer during throttle change to remove snatchiness, but the plugs looked perfectly grey. Back in they went.
BTW My #1 plug looked like it had water some time too on first pull. Cleaned and applied dielectric grease to caps (not anywhere on conductors people!) and swore to run engine or ride after every powerwash)
I'm hoping to have a 16km run the long way down into mexico and back next year. I'll pull them and replace, if they still lool good, a new set of E3.38's may end up going in again.

For all those people struggling with the air breather hose, remember, its a lot easier to remove from and reattach the head cover side. Leave it attache on the airbox side.

 

[~TABASCO~]