Solid Front Rotors, anyone done it?

Longdog Cymru

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But that is hardly the total unsprung weight. And far as I know, there is no magic in a brake rotor, no exotic alloys, just machined and installed. That is part of why you have a break in period for a new bike, to let those rotors and pads get all comfy with each other.
I don't recall saying that it was the total unsprung weight, simply that if a rotor is 50% thicker, then if it is made from a similar material. then it follows that it will be 50% heavier increasing unsprung weight of the rotor bt 50%.
But hey! Why should I worry, it's not my bike or my life.
Just one other thing, if people are going to just say "wrong!", then at least attempt to quantify and substantiate their reply and be constructive about it.
 

ace50

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I fail to understand why anyone would want to increase unsprung weight by at least 50% which in turn affects suspension and steering, compromising your safety and the safety of others and invalidating your insurance, (in some countries at least), in order to save a few $/€/¥/£.
Rotors are only a fraction of the unsprung weight, so even if you doubled the weight of the rotors, it wouldn't be no where near 50% increase.
 

Longdog Cymru

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Rotors are only a fraction of the unsprung weight, so even if you doubled the weight of the rotors, it wouldn't be no where near 50% increase.
Do us all a favour and read the post before yours before posting. I said “increasing the unsprung weight of the rotor by 50%”.

At no time have I referred to the total unsprung weight as some have read into my comments. The total unsprung weight includes the wheel, spokes, tyre, brake rotors, et al.
 

ace50

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DUDE, I literally quoted from your thread!!!
#9 in the thread, read your OWN posts!
 

Longdog Cymru

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DUDE, I literally quoted from your thread!!!
#9 in the thread, read your OWN posts!
Ermmmm...... I suggest you read it properly my friend, at no time did I state or imply that I was referring to total unsprung weight simply the unsprung weight of the rotors.
If you choose to misinterpret what I said, then that is your prerogative, but I do not intend to get involved in a pi$$ing contest with you or anyone else and I will not respond to any more of your posts as it detracts from the subject that the OP has raised.
 

ace50

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I fail to understand why anyone would want to increase total unsprung weight by at least 50% 5% which in turn affects suspension and steering, compromising your safety and the safety of others and invalidating your insurance, (in some countries at least), in order to save a few $/€/¥/£.
So I fixed it for you....

Ya, that makes a lot more sense!
 

Sierra1

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Weight would be the LAST of my concerns; she's built like a tank for durability. Being able to stop, and doing so safely, is my ONLY concern with ANY brake system. I totally agree with saving money where/when you can, but what you're wanting to do is kind of like re-inventing the wheel. I generally don't skimp when it comes to ANY safety equipment.
 

hobdayd

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Hahahahaha...I love the comment..."there is no magic in a brake rotor, no exotic alloys, just machined and installed..."

Looks like I wasted 25 years on developing suppliers capable of producing special materials repeatedly specifically for rotors, friction couples and disc brake systems for very demanding OEM's.

Dangerous comments on safety CRITICAL parts. Do what you want. Buy any AM products you want and fit them. Make parts out of any material you guess will do to any design you think will work.

Why do I care with opinions like these being expressed? Because I might help someone understand all the engineering that goes into these components!

This forum has some great information and people on it. I don't want to fall out with anyone on it. So this is my last post on this subject.
 

ace50

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I don't think there is ANY function of a bike that can't be messed with, tinkered with, redisigned, R&Ded!
Hell, if that was the case, there would hardly be any advancement in bikes at all.
They change all the time, new models coming out with 'new' stuff on them, and OEM's are not perfect either.
Heck, just look at the 1st gen S10. Clutch basket, fuel injection, CCT, all crap that needs to be fixed from new!
I make stuff all the time, and if it's mission critical, I test it, do my own R&D and will continue to do so.
I just laugh at those who imply OEM's are like gods.......o_O
 

Kiejoe

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Hahahahaha...I love the comment..."there is no magic in a brake rotor, no exotic alloys, just machined and installed..."

Looks like I wasted 25 years on developing suppliers capable of producing special materials repeatedly specifically for rotors, friction couples and disc brake systems for very demanding OEM's.

Dangerous comments on safety CRITICAL parts. Do what you want. Buy any AM products you want and fit them. Make parts out of any material you guess will do to any design you think will work.

Why do I care with opinions like these being expressed? Because I might help someone understand all the engineering that goes into these components!

This forum has some great information and people on it. I don't want to fall out with anyone on it. So this is my last post on this subject.
Hey hey hey .....I'm changing my discs ...yam a ha ...well "they know a few things about building bikes"...I'm going with what they recommend......'don't stop me now I'm having a good time ..having a good time ..
 

Bigbore4

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So I got a quote to have solid Front discs laser cut. Stupidly cheaper than the Galfer/ Yamaha OEM replacement.
Here in South Africa, only 25% of the OEM price.

Material is specified as SS 3CR12 @ 6mm thickness.

The OEM floating disc is in two parts.
The inner part is 6mm thick, the outer/floating part is 4mm.

The guys are concerned about skimming the outer part to 4mm and insist the whole disc to be 6mm thick.

I have no opinion on the thickness, except whether the 6mm outer section of the solid disc will allow the pads to fit over it.

I have Googling about floating vs. solid rotors and the only advantage the floating discs have, that I identified, is warping under severe, constant (like racing) conditions.

I am prepared to experiment with the solid discs (surely the solid disc will not simply disintegrate?!), but merely warp.
The costs involved is negligible and I will discard the disc if it proved unfavourable.

What is you opinions?

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Well now that everyone has had a chance to see who can pee farther, what did you decide? Curious if you tried it and how it worked. I have seen how much higher bike prices are in SA, I can only assume parts are as well thus driving the desire to retrofit something else.
 

swakop_toe

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Well now that everyone has had a chance to see who can pee farther, what did you decide? Curious if you tried it and how it worked. I have seen how much higher bike prices are in SA, I can only assume parts are as well thus driving the desire to retrofit something else.
On ice.
I just did not have time to have a face-to-face with the later cutters. They needed me to confirm the thickness of the centre portion and sign it off in person, so it will hold over to next year unfortunately.

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EricV

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Why do you want a solid rotor. Had them on my 2005 Road King. Had to switch them out to a floating rotor. The OEM made a blood curdling squel, that would stop traffic. Harley hid from the problem, did the replacement on my dime. It was a common complaint, Happy after. Sometimes They get it wrong and you have to go another route.
I also had an '05 Road King that squealed. Funny thing, HD put the rotors on backwards. Swap them to the opposite sides and the squeal went away. I know it just sounds crazy, but it really did work.

@swakop_toe - Go for it. You're not new to riding. You're smart enough to check the rotors after rides and see what's going on and if an issue occurs, you'll be aware of it before it goes critical. A good machine shop would be able to trim the rotor down to 5mm w/o too much issue, it would just add to the cost. I have run 5mm rotors on an application calling for 4.5mm w/o any issues. 6mm may or may not be an issue with brand new pads, but I suspect no issue simply because the pads will open much farther than 6mm!

Give it a go and take pictures for us to see, then post your real world results. Saving R9400 is huge! That's $650 USD for those not familiar with rand exchange rates. (I do business with a RSA company) It would cost me $340 USD (R4,900), to buy OEM rotors with all new screws here, shipped to my home. I could ship a set to you for another $100 (R1,500). R10,800 is obscene.

A full set of aftermarket Chinese rotors can be had for $200 USD. That's all 3 rotors, front and rear.

FWIW, I have had good results with Braking brand of rotors, (Italian), and even some of the China stuff sold on ebay. As a retired machinist, metallurgy plays a part in brake rotors. Still, I would not expect critical failure with alternate materials. You're not doing destructive testing to failure.
 
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EricV

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swakop_toe

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While there is some truth to what's in that advertisement there is also a fair amount of poetic license going on too. EBC is selling a product there and overstating some of the potential issues with solid rotors.
Indeed, I got the same gist when I researched solid vs. floating rotors.
I read this exact comparison, but the overwhelming consensus I found was that floating discs really come into their own on racing bikes. Seriously hard and prolonged braking.

Not my typical daily commute or leisurely outride will ever come close to the demands the floating discs are designed to withstand.

In my opinion.

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RCinNC

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I think this would be an interesting experiment to follow. If someone else is willing to tackle this and report on his results, I'm all for it. I wouldn't do it myself; I don't know enough about metallurgy and machining to know if the person I was dealing with knew what they were talking about. But I am a big "build it yourself" kind of guy, so I understand the desire to try it (especially if rotors cost $650.00!!). I imagine any competent machinist can turn out a brake rotor. It's a steel disc; we aren't talking about creating cold fusion. The biggest unknown would be choosing the right kind of steel, and that's where I'd be in the dark. I don't know what sort of steel is used in a rotor, or how it's treated, so that would be a huge gray area for me.
 

Sierra1

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And don't forget, once you find a good rotor metal, you are going to have to locate a pad material that will be compatible. I'm all for a "do-it-yourself" mindset, but not with something this important.
 
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