Snatchy throttle problem (with remap)

[Ramwyn]

Hi everyone, I'm hoping someone out there can shed some light on this issue my gen 2 2014 model has. Whilst riding at low speed and on opening the throttle a small amount, it's very abrupt and snatchy....and before you suggest it needs a remap, it already has one!

The full story is that I bought the bike towards the end of last year as an insurance write-off. It was only cosmetics that were damaged, in fact I rode it the 100miles home just with the aid of a few cable ties supporting the top cowling! It was a fairly straightforward fix, is now back on the road, and I've covered about 400 miles on it.

The remap - ECU Unleashed, which I have the invoice for, was done by the first owner (I'm the third). I noticed on riding it home that it pulled really strongly, and the previous owner (who I spoke to over the phone) confirmed that it went better than the new bike he bought after his insurance payout (with no remap).
The weird thing is that he did not notice the snatchy throttle that I now have, and in all honesty, neither did I when I bought it! On switching between modes, there is no difference between them whatsoever, it seems that it's permanently in Sport mode.
There is definitely less engine braking than I would expect too, which seems to be a common feature of a remap.

Another thing worth noting is that the bike has done 15000miles, is fitted with a K&N filter and was previously fitted with a Yoshimura RS4, but is now back on the standard silencer.
I've scoured the forum for answers but have nothing conclusive so far. Any ideas?

 

[bimota]

could it be that it was flashed with yoshi but now standard can the flash is now not working coz of the difference between the 2 cans

i don,t know

rob

 

[Sierra1]

This may be apples and oranges, but my wife has a '15 Cherokee with a 9-speed auto trans. She started complaining about how it shifted, and that something was wrong. No check engine lights. Brought it in to a Jeep dealer. They had to update AND re-flash the transmission. They advised that the computer had "developed an issue" after a couple of years. The re-flash was free due to it being a "factory" problem. Sounds like yours may have "developed an issue", but I don't know how Tenere re-flashes work; so I might be full of s**t. Good luck.

 

[Ramwyn]

It could well be an exhaust issue, Rob, it was one of the things in the back of my mind.
And Sierra1, you could be right, it could possibly need a re-flash, I'll wait to see if anyone has experienced a similar problem.
Thanks to both of you for responding.

 

[bimota]

i had mine flashed last year with yoshi on and chris who flashed it said it would not run perfectly with standard can on if i swopped it back to standard can.
it was on the dyno for 4hrs took the lamba sensors off drilled and pluged the standard headers to get the gases right per cylinder so by putting back the standard can it would be all over the place
you would think

 

[Nikolajsen]

Something else is wrong.
There must be some difference when shifting modes T and S. (unless of course the same mapping is put both "places"??)
Does it shift modes on the dash?

 

[Ramwyn]

The exhaust issue is worth investigating, no doubt.
As for shifting modes on the dash, yes it transfers no problem.
My last bike (a KTM 1190 Adventure) had a very prominent difference between modes.

 

[jbrown]

I don't know what near idle changes you should expect from an ECU Unleashed flash.
But if you didn't notice the snatchy-ness before, and now you do, along with no noticeable difference between modes, you might want to verify that the clutch switch isn't shorted. If it were, then the neutral map may be used in all situations. Again, I don't know what ECU Unleashed may have done, but assuming they didn't change the neutral map, that could be the problem.

 

[Jlq1969]

the exhaust i don´t believe, if it is more abrupt now with the original, would now be better than the yoshi
why do not you start witn the throttle cable. oil a little, and loosen a little bit from the regulator. If dry, it delays in backing up when you decelerate. if very tense, it becomes very sensitive. i say like to discard things before going to the specialist

 

[Ramwyn]

Thanks JBrown and Jlq1969 for your suggestions, I shall check the clutch switch and lubricate the throttle cable as you recommended.
I'm open to any suggestions that might help.

 

[Tenman]

Too much or too little cable slack makes a lot of difference. I had mine flashed by avc8130 5 yrs ago. It did it all the good. If I needed to ask about a flashing. He would be the guy to go to

 

[Longdog Cymru]

could it be that it was flashed with yoshi but now standard can the flash is now not working coz of the difference between the 2 cans

i don,t know

rob

If it was flashed with an aftermarket end can but with stock headers, then it shouldn’t make a difference what end can was on it, stock, Yoshi or any other. It is the headers that make a difference when re-mapping. For example, if you put Arrow headers on, then it will flow more gases, so it should be re-mapped to compensate for this.

 

[T4ten]

I thought it was the whole exhaust that made the difference. So if the end can was more free flowing that would require a compensatory tune up?

 

[Longdog Cymru]

I thought it was the whole exhaust that made the difference. So if the end can was more free flowing that would require a compensatory tune up?

As I understand, if you have the stock headers and Cat in place, then whatever end can you have is not going to make too much difference to exhaust gas flow. The big obstruction to exhaust gases is the Cat, so generally, end can manufacturers say that no adjustment is required unless the rest of the exhaust system has been changed. Apart from this, most modern bikes have closed loop sensors which continually monitor and adjust your mixture to compensate for load, speed, temperature and altitude.

I am not by any means saying this is definitive, but it is what I believe to be correct.

 

[Ramwyn]

Latest update......
After work this evening I checked the clutch switch - no problems there.
Next the throttle cable free play. It didn't feel too slack but I gave the adjuster a couple of turns anyway.
Then a short test ride along some slow narrow roads in low gears and small throttle openings.
I'm pretty sure it feels better and less snatchy, only time will tell.
When this stormy weather clears, I'll go for a proper test ride.
I'll keep you posted and thanks for all your replies.

 

[Jlq1969]

If you loosen the cable a little, and feel it a little softer, then you should check that the intake holes will be 100%, for this you will have to lift the tank, and with the motorcycle off, accelerate with the fist to the 100%, and with your hand touch the axis of the mouths that are also 100%

 

[Ramwyn]

One other thing I will also do soon is a throttle body synch.
I'll dig out my old Morgan Carbtune when I have some spare time to do it.

 

[midlife]

One other thing I will also do soon is a throttle body synch.
I'll dig out my old Morgan Carbtune when I have some spare time to do it.

I have had exactly the same as you describe. I have done throttle bodies the lot and it still kangaroos around at slow speeds. Was the flash done by Chris at CJS in Bristoldown by any chance?

 

[Ramwyn]

No, ECU Unleashed in Essex did it.

 

[Squibb]

Sounds like a strange issue, if the mode switch is ineffective, but then again it's had a crash, so it could be just about anything.

Have you checked for fault codes recently? Sounds like it's plenty powerful, but does it start promptly & is tick-over stable? The end can should be irrelevant, as others have said.

Have you broached the issue with ECU Unleashed? Was it a generic S10 re-flash, or a full rolling Road/Dyno job - IIRC you have the invoice .