Smoother Throttle? Try this!

DanijelTodic

Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2019
Messages
82
Location
Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Hey Guys,

I have been struggling with the jerky throttle on the s10 for a while now. I love the S mode and don't like the feeling of T mode but the on/off jerkiness is downright irritating at times.

I also had a intermittent hesitation in second gear when going WOT. The bike felt if i was opening the throttle half way in stead of full.

Well i found the problem and all seems well! I have adjusted the APS sensor on the throttle body and the bike is noticeably smoother and just a pleasure to ride. The hesitation has also magically disappeared.

See this topic on the Tracer forum: https://www.tracer900.net/topic/4389-accelerator-position-sensor-aps-adjustment/#comments
 

Ronzo

Active Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2020
Messages
134
Location
Ontario, Canada
Ive had four fuel injected yamahas now and all of them have had a bit of a sharp off/on throttle response with the stock flash.

It’s something that i am so used to, I naturally compensate for it.
^^^^this.
I had a 2006 and a 2012 FZ1 and both had same issue until ECU was flashed.
 

Sierra1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
4,915
Location
DFW-TEXAS
Fly-by-wire fuel injection. My truck had a throttle cable; normal response. My Jeep is by wire; has an off idle stumble. The Tenere feels more like the truck, just a quicker response. (that I have learned to love)
 

gunslinger_006

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 21, 2016
Messages
276
Location
Seattle, Washington
Fly-by-wire fuel injection. My truck had a throttle cable; normal response. My Jeep is by wire; has an off idle stumble. The Tenere feels more like the truck, just a quicker response. (that I have learned to love)
The fly by wire may not be helping, but my fz6, r6, and roadstar warrior all were traditional throttle and FI, and all of them had a harsh off/on throttle response. Even a throttle tamer didnt really fix it. Flashing did.
 

Cantab

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2020
Messages
170
Location
Christchurch NZ
It’s a characteristic of fuel injection. My 5.0l F150 is the same. Touchy
My Gen 2 Busa and BKing were smooth from the get go, the SV1000N was a little on off but ok, the GSX1400 came right with a 4deg advancer and spot on PC3 and dyno.
 

Cantab

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2020
Messages
170
Location
Christchurch NZ
You poor guys that have bikes with twitchy throttles. Glad mine works right. :)
I sometimes guess with you being Big and all that (your words big ass ;)) that you need to give it a bit more throttle and your past that 2500rpm when first taking off...:confused:

Ive noticed two up loaded i need a bit more gas then when by myself from a standstill.

I still prefer TCS off , to me its smoother and more power.
 

Sierra1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
4,915
Location
DFW-TEXAS
I sometimes guess with you being Big and all that (your words big ass ;)) that you need to give it a bit more throttle and your past that 2500rpm when first taking off...:confused:

Ive noticed two up loaded i need a bit more gas then when by myself from a standstill.

I still prefer TCS off , to me its smoother and more power.
Bahahaaaa!!. Gravity does effect me more than most. . . . like you with a passenger. But, I can take off in gravel smooth as silk. Early on, I tried taking off from a light very quickly. There was no power shortage. She immediately started to stand up. TCS saved my ass. I didn't rev it up, and dump the clutch. I was releasing the clutch as I was applying throttle. Ever since then, I make sure she's rolling before I hammer the throttle. . . . and hang on.
 

marc99

New Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2020
Messages
1
Changing the TPS adjustment changes both the ignition timing and the fueling rates.n Especially evident at lower rpms and at "in town" cruise.
It's not a "new" thing - years ago, our vtr1000 Superhawk Carb Kit required that one adjust the TPS to make the bike run well at low rpm.

When we flash ecus, we address mixture and timing to make the on/off throttle less notchy.

Marc Salvisberg
 

Drif10

Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2020
Messages
30
Location
Stalingrad
Okay, feedback:

Did this a couple of days ago, been on two rides since, just over three hours of run time, mostly rural. 14 ES, Canuck spec, stock everything.

You've got to get under the airbox. That means pulling both fairing side panels to access the front gas tank bolts, loosening the rear pivot bolt, releasing the two tank vent lines from their keeper on the lower left of the motor, then rotating the tank up and holding it there with a strap. Simple, many examples of that here.

Two bolts on the airbox, a clamp on each intake, lift the airbox up, disconnect the crankcase breather line, and the air temp sensor connector. You now have all the access you need. Ten minutes to this point without rushing.

The APS bolts are 8mm head, but the clearance to get a socket and ratchet on them isn't available. I took an spare cheap 1/4" drive socket, and ground off the drive part. Then I took an old bolt to use as a lever, ground one side flat, then welded to the socket. A little grinding to smooth it up. I'm really glad I spent the ten minutes to do this, it made the actual work on the bike mega easy. Highly recommend you imitate this, if you show up with the two pieces, any guy with a welder can tack this in five seconds and it's done. Pay the man for saving you heartache.

Then in to the diag menus as per the linked directions, make the adjustments, button up, and you're good.

I took mine from 17/102 down to 14/99.

I find touring throttle response to be more sluggish now. Not a mode I'm likely to use now everyday, but since I ride year round and that means lots of rain/icy/slippery conditions, I think it's gonna be perfect for that. Slow throttle then is the absolute best.

Sport mode is now useable. Too abrupt to respond before, it's now quick, therefore functional. All the acceleration rates that we like about that mode, without being snatchy like it was.

Trailing throttle is now less of an on/off switch. This meant the most to me, as I'm very much prone to keeping drive lash in the "loaded" state, and like to avoid full off decel, then that snap back on the drive/chassis/tire loading when you get back in to the throttle.

I'm still thinking that I'm gonna get the bike flashed to improve the trailing throttle, lower the fan temp engagement point, and remove the gear restrictions. More torque would be nice in the 2500-4500 range, but this thing has enough already.

Pics:

20200930_124443.jpg20200930_124432.jpg20200930_124422.jpg
 

DanijelTodic

Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2019
Messages
82
Location
Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Okay, feedback:

Did this a couple of days ago, been on two rides since, just over three hours of run time, mostly rural. 14 ES, Canuck spec, stock everything.

You've got to get under the airbox. That means pulling both fairing side panels to access the front gas tank bolts, loosening the rear pivot bolt, releasing the two tank vent lines from their keeper on the lower left of the motor, then rotating the tank up and holding it there with a strap. Simple, many examples of that here.

Two bolts on the airbox, a clamp on each intake, lift the airbox up, disconnect the crankcase breather line, and the air temp sensor connector. You now have all the access you need. Ten minutes to this point without rushing.

The APS bolts are 8mm head, but the clearance to get a socket and ratchet on them isn't available. I took an spare cheap 1/4" drive socket, and ground off the drive part. Then I took an old bolt to use as a lever, ground one side flat, then welded to the socket. A little grinding to smooth it up. I'm really glad I spent the ten minutes to do this, it made the actual work on the bike mega easy. Highly recommend you imitate this, if you show up with the two pieces, any guy with a welder can tack this in five seconds and it's done. Pay the man for saving you heartache.

Then in to the diag menus as per the linked directions, make the adjustments, button up, and you're good.

I took mine from 17/102 down to 14/99.

I find touring throttle response to be more sluggish now. Not a mode I'm likely to use now everyday, but since I ride year round and that means lots of rain/icy/slippery conditions, I think it's gonna be perfect for that. Slow throttle then is the absolute best.

Sport mode is now useable. Too abrupt to respond before, it's now quick, therefore functional. All the acceleration rates that we like about that mode, without being snatchy like it was.

Trailing throttle is now less of an on/off switch. This meant the most to me, as I'm very much prone to keeping drive lash in the "loaded" state, and like to avoid full off decel, then that snap back on the drive/chassis/tire loading when you get back in to the throttle.

I'm still thinking that I'm gonna get the bike flashed to improve the trailing throttle, lower the fan temp engagement point, and remove the gear restrictions. More torque would be nice in the 2500-4500 range, but this thing has enough already.

Pics:

View attachment 71784View attachment 71785View attachment 71786
Happy to hear that this also works for you! I also made the change from 17 to 14.
 
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