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S10 ES rear shock Racetech SRSP 6022 series direct replacement spring!!!!
- Thread starter Rodge
- Start date
Super08
Well-Known Member
Very similar to mine with the stock spring. The results we get with the bike stripped and in the highest setting is what we should be seeing in the lowest setting.
nwrider
Active Member
WJBertrand,
I'll try your vice idea on the 2012 where I can take the shock to the vice--couldn't do that with my 2014 ES.
I'll try your vice idea on the 2012 where I can take the shock to the vice--couldn't do that with my 2014 ES.
stubble
Member
I swapped in my race tech 9.0 today on my 2014 ES and took it around the block. initial impression is good. I will be on track with it next week so that will be the first major test, and the second will come when I next have my girl riding pillion.
A couple of observations while it’s fresh in my mind:
Its pretty easy, all shock and dogbone bolts easy to access. The hardest part is the spring compression. I used a Tusk compressor from Amazon and it was barely adequate for the job. Honestly it was just a little sketchy on the new stiffer spring.
I removed the right panel cover and couple of metal cable guides from the right subframe to make room to work.
Removing the remote reservoir from the passenger peg was necessary to give enough slack to move the shock around. It is a single hex bolt being the passenger peg bracket, the larger of three, good access. That’s all you need to detach the reservoir. I raised the rear wheel up with a strap after disconnecting the dogbones and that made it easy to drop the shock enough to wiggle it free and out the top right side of the bike.
I did the spring swap with the shock resting on the foot peg. I did not remove it from the bike as the preload connector was still attached. Juuuuust a little sketch. Don’t forget your safety squints.
Overall an easy job, took me a couple of careful hours and only one or two cusses. I’m optimistic for the result after putting around the block.
A couple of observations while it’s fresh in my mind:
Its pretty easy, all shock and dogbone bolts easy to access. The hardest part is the spring compression. I used a Tusk compressor from Amazon and it was barely adequate for the job. Honestly it was just a little sketchy on the new stiffer spring.
I removed the right panel cover and couple of metal cable guides from the right subframe to make room to work.
Removing the remote reservoir from the passenger peg was necessary to give enough slack to move the shock around. It is a single hex bolt being the passenger peg bracket, the larger of three, good access. That’s all you need to detach the reservoir. I raised the rear wheel up with a strap after disconnecting the dogbones and that made it easy to drop the shock enough to wiggle it free and out the top right side of the bike.
I did the spring swap with the shock resting on the foot peg. I did not remove it from the bike as the preload connector was still attached. Juuuuust a little sketch. Don’t forget your safety squints.
Overall an easy job, took me a couple of careful hours and only one or two cusses. I’m optimistic for the result after putting around the block.
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
Mine is an ES, you just have unplug the electrics and move everything together to the bench.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Super08
Well-Known Member
I am curious to see what you impressions are of how it handles with the 9 kg spring and stock front suspension. It makes me wonder how much it is going to increase nose dive under braking.
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ballisticexchris
Guest
I really appreciate all the footwork you guys are doing for spring replacement options. I still prefer Jeffs and Karls option with a spacer and less preload. OTOH, the drop in 6022 spring seems to be working out great. My OEM spring does not cause any ill handling and the bike tracks great. What I don't like is how much it sags when putting the side stand down. Unless I have it set full stiff, the bike almost wants to tip over to the right.
Super08
Well-Known Member
I noticed in an earlier post Jeff was wondering what the seat pressures were with Karls setup that he used. I added them on to the chart as well as a couple more of the Racetech springs.
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Super08
Well-Known Member
That is why I am replacing my oem spring. My bike took a tumble in June on a trip. With the bike loaded even in max preload setting of two up and bags it sags too much and the bike sits almost level on the side stand. It didn't take much of a wind gust to blow it over. As for the seat pressures: At any given sag when the weight on both bikes are the same and the sag is the same then the seat pressures are equal no matter what they were before the load was applied. All the seat pressures given above in the chart are with zero load on the shock. It is only the pressure the spring is placing on the seats for each preload setting before the wheel touches the ground. Once the bike is on the ground those numbers change. It just gives a baseline of what to estimate your sag to be before buying a spring.
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Super08
Well-Known Member
Well that sucks. I just got off of the phone with Racetech and this spring is discontinued and they have none left in stock.
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ballisticexchris
Guest
Sorry to hear that. I’m actually thinking of getting a set of dog bones to raise mine. Or take the bike to Race Tech and let them do their thing. The main shop in Corona has a full service machine shop to make spacers and they have spring measuring tools to get my sag set perfect.
The bike just rides so good right now! It’s only when it’s parked that causes problems.
You need to take one for the team Chris and get your bike to RT. Having just an ES shock and and some spec sheets obviously hasn't worked out well!
Super08
Well-Known Member
No not with what happened with your bike. BTW what were the specs on the spacer they made for you to use with the Eibach 800 lb spring?
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ballisticexchris
Guest
Aint that the truth!! I have been by there twice and picked springs that were posted here. Neither one worked. The one that did work required so much preload it was suggested not to use it. I was told by the service manager to wait until I get some miles on the bike before bringing it in. I think they only charge about 100 bucks for each end labor for the R&R. For my dirt bikes I did suspension service every 25-50 hours when racing and now every 50-100 hours for normal trail riding. It was explained to me that under normal riding conditions full service for street oriented bikes is not due until close to 10,000 miles.
For now those rising links are looking pretty good! I think it's a good option to use until I bring my bike in for a full suspension service.
http://www.lustracing.co.uk/suspension/yamaha-xt1200z-super-tenere-jackup-kit.html
Super08
Well-Known Member
It is nice but only a band aid solution for me. With sags over 100 mm I need more preload and rate.
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ballisticexchris
Guest
Yes it's a band aid for sure. OTOH cheap and easy. I have used dog bones in the past to lower the kids bikes. This would be a first using a shorter one to raise the bike.
Just pulled the 800 lb spring out. 7mm total. Picture of what/where installed:
Attachments
Let's call it 6.5 total.
The top is 1.5mm - single bushing
There are three bushings stacked at the bottom - 5mm total
The top is 1.5mm - single bushing
There are three bushings stacked at the bottom - 5mm total
Attachments
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Super08
Well-Known Member
I was going to put this in a PM but I cannot include pics. Here are the numbers for the 800lb spring they had on your bike with 7mm total spacers. The 800 only has 107mm travel. You run out of travel in both the 2 up and 2 up plus bag settings.
Thanks Super08. Good thing I'm not one who rides with passengers!
Hopefully all the information, including RT's failed attempts to date, will help someone develop the definitive spring solution for ES machines.
Hopefully all the information, including RT's failed attempts to date, will help someone develop the definitive spring solution for ES machines.