S10 ES rear shock Racetech SRSP 6022 series direct replacement spring!!!!

WJBertrand

Ventura Highway
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So far I’ve not heard of any suspension motors getting burnt out handling a heavier spring. I put a 30% stiffer one on mine but it needed custom made spacer which my shop at work turned out for me. My bike has no trouble preloading the stiffer spring, but being mindful of the extra load, I try to make the adjustments with the bike on the center stand, or at least without my weight on the saddle.


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nwrider

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sw washington
Are there any 10mm spacers available that will work with the Eibach 550# spring? The Eibach is about 50% less than the RaceTech. alternative.
 

WJBertrand

Ventura Highway
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Those of us who've done this had to have the spacer custom made. Karl provided a drawing to take to a machinist in the thread about respringing the ES.
 

Super08

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AB, Canada
I think I will get either the 8.5 or 9.0 Racetech spring and install it this winter. I am 185-190 without gear. My bike is well farkled with Givi Outback panniers and top box, Altrider crash bars etc. I just got back from a trip and my bike fell over in a wind gust. The whole trip I had to be carefull how I parked the bike loaded as it wouldn't lean over far enough.
 
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ballisticexchris

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I'm still on the fence to put some miles on my bike then take it directly to Race Tech for proper springs, . They have an in house machine shop and can get get my rate really accurate fo my weight. I can have them service and valve the suspension at the same time. The OEM stuff is working really well for my aprox 200-210lb weight. OTOH the OEM spring rates and sag numbers are way off.

It makes no sense as to why this bike handles so well. If I had a dirt bike with these kind of rates I would be crying!!
 
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ballisticexchris

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Upper/lower shock nuts 40Nm/35 ft.lbf
Relay arm to frame, relay arm to connecting arm, connecting arm to swingarm nuts all 59Nm/43 ft.lbf
 

nwrider

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Aug 26, 2011
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sw washington
I replaced my stock spring with the Race Tech 8.5 and am happy with it after 650 miles loaded with camping gear with a setting of rider+passenger preload. The Tusk spring compressors were barely adequate for the job and after one use may not be capable of removing another spring. I had the rear wheel off for a new tire and was able to get the shock out and rested it on the footpeg while I changed the spring -- thanks to others who went before me for their suggestions.
 

Super08

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AB, Canada
Seems like the Race Tech direct replacement spring is working nicely. Much less sag and firmer ride.
Static sag for the 8.5 kg spring with empty top box is ~30mm, race sag 1 up + luggage is ~60mm.







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Now that you have had several months with it are you glad you went with the 8.5 over the 9.0? I am looking at both of these as the stock is way too soft. I am about 205-210 with my gear on 185-190 without. My bike has Givi racks and Outback panniers, Altrider rear rack and Givi top box. My wife likes to go on rides sometimes as well and I would put her close to 180 geared up. I am moving towards the 9.0 but don't want it too stiff solo. Most of the time I ride with the panniers on the bike.P1010023 (2).JPG
 

WJBertrand

Ventura Highway
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I replaced my stock spring with the Race Tech 8.5 and am happy with it after 650 miles loaded with camping gear with a setting of rider+passenger preload. The Tusk spring compressors were barely adequate for the job and after one use may not be capable of removing another spring.
Interesting, I’ve done four ES spring replacements (in one case we had to re-do one, so 5?) with my Tusk compressors and they seem ready for more. The little plastic anti-scratch inserts are pretty much toasted though.


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nwrider

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Yes, the problem with the Tusk spring compressors are the plastic inserts used to protect the paint on the spring. Because they are slick, it was hard to keep them in position while tightening them up. They would "crawl" around the spring. As a matter of fact, just as I got the new spring on, one of the compressors popped off. With the spring bowed out where the clamp was missing, it made it very difficult to index the hydraulic spring adjustment collar. The next time I use them (I'm going to change the spring on a 2012) I think I'll try wrapping the spring with tape where the Tusk clamps contact to increase the friction.
 

WJBertrand

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I was able to remove the shock and the pump / reservoir assembly together from the bike and use a vise to hold one of the compressors. You do have to make sure they stay 180 degrees apart while using them.




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Super08

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AB, Canada
I was just taking some measurements of my bike with the stock spring.
Static in 2 up plus luggage is 46mm. in one up it was about 74mm
With me on the bike it is in 2 up plus luggage it is about 77mm and in one up over 100mm. That is just me in street clothes and sandals. It makes me wonder if my spring is a lazy one.

That is with my bike the way it is when I ride most time. Both panniers on and the top case. All of which just have a few things in them. No wonder my bike blew over in some wind when it was loaded. I would hate to measure the sag with the bags loaded for a trip. I know I did have a hard time finding a spot to park that I felt it was safe.

So with these results and looking at the chart on page one the 2 up with bag setting with the stock spring is the same as the one up setting with the 8.5kg spring. This is telling me I would be better off with the 9 kg spring the way I have my bike equipped as going to 1 up with bags will not be enough preload. I would have to ride in the 2 rider setting. I am going to go back out and take the bags off and see what I get with the bike bare.

Edit: With the bike stripped of both panniers and the topcase in the two up plus bags setting I get 31mm static sag and 62mm sag with me sitting on bike without my gear on. That just confirms I best go with the 9 kg spring. Proper sag for this bike should be in the 53-58 mm range for 30-33% sag. I won't be able to do this with the 8.5 kg spring unless I ride light in higher settings. I want the settings to relate as close as possible to what I am actually doing.
 
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regulator

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Philadelphia, PA USA
I found adding a clamp (wood furniture in my case) to the compressor not in the vice was helpful also. Some reported the non-vice compressor became twisted without extra help, especially when working with stronger springs. There’s a lot of force in play.....

I was able to remove the shock and the pump / reservoir assembly together from the bike and use a vise to hold one of the compressors. You do have to make sure they stay 180 degrees apart while using them.




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Super08

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I just did some follow up to the seat pressures posted towards the beginning of the thread. It was measured at 11mm travel from one up to 2 up plus bags. I only get 10mm total travel. The biggest jump is from one up plus bags to two up. This is also where I feel the biggest rise when sitting on the bike changing settings. Below is the amount of spring compression from the baseline one up position to the other three positions. They are rounded to the nearest mm as it is close enough. two up was just a hair under 8 mm, about 7.8mm.

one up 0mm
one up + bags 2mm
two up 8mm
two up + bags 10mm

Using that and the original information I did up a spreadsheet and this was the results for both the 8,5 kg and 9.0 kg springs.
seat pressures.jpg
 
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