Replacing clutch line, anything to look out for with the clutch master and slave cylinders?

[duegi]

Slipped and nicked my clutch line, have to replace, such is life. Anything to look out for with the clutch master or slave cylinder?
I figure while I'm messing with the clutch line I might as well clean the whole of the assembly.
I don't see anything on the schematic that indicates any odd itty bitty valves or the like.

 

[EricV]

The only comment I have is that bleeding the clutch line can be a pain. The last bend at the bottom before it connects to the slave cylinder tends to catch a bubble. The only 100% successful method I've used to get rid of that is to tie the clutch lever to the bar, cover the reservoir with a rag to avoid contamination and let it sit that way overnight. No amount of tapping or bleeding seemed to help prior to letting it sit overnight with the lever tied down.

FWIW, I use a compressed air powered vacuum bleeder. Tried old school squeeze the lever method as well.

It has been mentioned that if you tend to hold the clutch lever in at long stop lights, the rod that runs from the slave to the clutch wears on the end and this increases the effort required to pull the lever in at the bar. I've forgotten if it's the rod or another part to replace that improved this ones it becomes worn. Jaxon at Ride On ADV was the one commenting on it. Tabasco is his user name if you wanted to search.

 

[duegi]

Agreed on the let it set overnight method, no reason to fight air doing what it naturally does in liquid by rising. Have used the method many times and thanks for the reminder.

 

[duegi]

All done and test ridden to satisfaction EricV. Bled system top down with a Mity Vac. Then reverse bled with large syringe and all the air came up immediately. Be sure to drain down to 1/4 fluid in clutch master cylinder reservoir and put a rag over it for spatter from air escaping when reverse bleeding. Happy moto and owner again...

 

[ballisticexchris]

It has been mentioned that if you tend to hold the clutch lever in at long stop lights, the rod that runs from the slave to the clutch wears on the end and this increases the effort required to pull the lever in at the bar. I've forgotten if it's the rod or another part to replace that improved this ones it becomes worn. Jaxon at Ride On ADV was the one commenting on it. Tabasco is his user name if you wanted to search.

Thanks for that reminder Eric. Yes, I'm going to buy those parts the Jaxon suggested and have them on hand for replacement. I'll also keep that little shifter spring thingy as a spare. I'm horrible about holding the clutch in. I very rarely knock the bike into neutral when seated and stopped. When the bikes not moving it's in gear and clutch in. I feel out of control when it's in neutral.

 

[RCinNC]

Last time I flushed my clutch fluid (a couple months ago) I reverse bled the clutch for the first time, instead of using a MityVac. I preferred the reverse bleed method. It wasn't as successful with the brakes; the rear and right front went fine, but for the life of me I couldn't push fluid into the left front caliper using a syringe. Still don't know why.

 

[EricV]

All done and test ridden to satisfaction EricV. Bled system top down with a mittVac. Then reverse bled with large syringe and all the air came up immediately. Be sure to drain down to 1/4 fluid in clutch master cylinder reservoir and put a rag over it for spatter from air escaping when reverse bleeding. Happy moto and owner again...

Glad to hear you had a trouble free process. Excellent advice too.