Replacing clutch lever

Wheelin

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I bought aftermarket brake and clutch levers for the S10. The brake lever replacement went without a hitch. Unfortunately, when I tried replacing the clutch lever after having transferred the push rod bushing from the old lever to the new lever, I can’t get the clutch to work. So I tried putting the old original clutch lever back on after transferring the push rod bushing back and it didn’t work either, so clearly, the problem is with me. What am I doing wrong?
 

Squibb

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What does 'didn't work' actually mean? Is the lever solid, does it pump the master but nothing happens at the slave or is the lever dead/floppy.
 
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ballisticexchris

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I'm not sure on the Super Tenere but sometimes the master cylinder push rod needs to be oriented properly. Long end toward the MC.
 

Wheelin

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What does 'didn't work' actually mean? Is the lever solid, does it pump the master but nothing happens at the slave or is the lever dead/floppy.
ah, my apologies for not being more clear. The lever is solid. The problem is that the clutch is always contacting the friction plate. When I squeeze the lever, I am unable to disengage the clutch. Another way to say it is that with the engine off and the bike in gear, when I squeeze the clutch lever, I am still unable to move the bike.
 

Wheelin

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I'm not sure on the Super Tenere but sometimes the master cylinder push rod needs to be oriented properly. Long end toward the MC.
wish there was a good video on this. I put the push rod into the bushing on the lever. Or at least I thought I did. Is that what you mean?
 

MFP

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wish there was a good video on this. I put the push rod into the bushing on the lever. Or at least I thought I did. Is that what you mean?
What brand aftermarket levers did you purchase and are they specific to Yamaha S10s?
 

MFP

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I think your problem may be two things:
First the one which was mentioned by both ballisticexchris & gunslinger_006 regarding the rod
and the other may be that the adjustable aspect of the clutch lever. Perhaps it is set at the wrong number
meaning too much lever pull-in or not enough distance to the handgrip to engage/disengage the clutch.
 

escapefjrtist

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FJR and Tenere levers use the same perches so you're OK there. Make sure the clutch master cylinder push rod goes into the brass bushing hole properly. You're doing it blind and it's a bitch so you'll need to guide it in as best you can. I've found it's best to slightly angle the bushing hole and move the push rod to it. Insert the lever pivot bolt last.

Good luck!

~G
 

Wheelin

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I think your problem may be two things:
First the one which was mentioned by both ballisticexchris & gunslinger_006 regarding the rod
and the other may be that the adjustable aspect of the clutch lever. Perhaps it is set at the wrong number
meaning too much lever pull-in or not enough distance to the handgrip to engage/disengage the clutch.
i’ve tried numbers one all the way through six, so I’m guessing how I’m aligning in the rod is the problem.
 

Doodlefadd

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I'm not sure if it will help.
But I've gotten myself a pair of such levers off ebay. And yes the brake lever goes on like butter. The clutch tho. No matter how I adjust it, reinstall it, it will not engage/disengage the clutch properly.
For my case, it was a fitment issue. Fixing the lever onto the bracket itself was a pain.
I can't link it, but I recall reading this somewhere on the forum too.
Many went to the alternative pazzo/asv path without issues thereafter.
Hope this helps
 
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ballisticexchris

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Have you actually started the bike and tried? The reason I ask is when the engine is cold it is almost impossible to push in gear even with the lever pulled in.
 

StefanOnHisS10

Converting fuel into heat, noise and a bit motion
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Wheelin

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That is the exact set of levers I also had the same problems with. I scrapped them. Seller is a total d*ck and wouldn’t stand for his product.
Didn’t expect to read that! I might do the same, save for when I just try to push the push rod in by hand and rotate the rear wheel, it still won’t rotate, so I figured it was still me.
 

StefanOnHisS10

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I didn’t do a full rootcause investigation but with mine the hole for the pushrod was drilled to deep. For that low buck (and the poor quality) I didn’t fix it or anything. The seller offered me a 92ish cent(!) discount! And never took my complaint seriously.
I’ll just spend some more in the near future for a quality product. I did like the design very much though..
 

Wheelin

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I'm not sure if it will help.
But I've gotten myself a pair of such levers off ebay. And yes the brake lever goes on like butter. The clutch tho. No matter how I adjust it, reinstall it, it will not engage/disengage the clutch properly.
For my case, it was a fitment issue. Fixing the lever onto the bracket itself was a pain.
I can't link it, but I recall reading this somewhere on the forum too.
Many went to the alternative pazzo/asv path without issues thereafter.
Hope this helps
I’ve tried reinstalling the original clutch lever, though, and still can’t get the clutch to disengage when I squeeze the lever. Maybe I’ll try again.
 

Wheelin

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I didn’t do a full rootcause investigation but with mine the hole for the pushrod was drilled to deep. For that low buck (and the poor quality) I didn’t fix it or anything. The seller offered me a 92ish cent(!) discount! And never took my complaint seriously.
I’ll just spend some more in the near future for a quality product. I did like the design very much though..
hmmm....if that’s the case, I might have an epoxy sort of produce to make the hole less shallow. Still, though, I shouldn't have to modify anything.
 
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