Rear Wheel Removal and Replacement Pictorial

Nikolajsen

"Keep it simple"
Joined
Jul 1, 2017
Messages
2,046
Location
Denmark
Hmm, 1 cm sounds like much, are you sure you have the spacer/s in place?
But when you tighten the axle will come in and close the gap.
 
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ballisticexchris

Guest
I bought some wood shims from the hardware store. I took four of them, lined them up side by side, and glued them to a 1/4" plywood backing plate. I made two of these plates. I then slid the plates under the rear tire and snugged them up so they supported it. I then pulled the rear axle all the way out, removed the caliper, and slid it back in through the wheel. The wedges kept the rear tire supported so the hub cover didn't start pulling away from the hub while the axle was removed. Once the axle was back in, you have a lot of clearance to shift the whole tire to the right, and with the axle supporting the whole wheel, the wheel and hub slide right out of the final drive as a unit, with no separation. Then you just pull the whole axle out, and the tire and hub just come off as a whole unit, with no fuss.

When I put the wheel back on, I reversed the procedure. I threaded the axle through the wheel into the final drive, without installing the caliper. That made it really easy to line the splines on the hub up with the final drive, without trying to hold the wheel up with brute force while trying to line everything up. Once the hub and final drive were mated, I put the shims under the tire to hold everything in place, pulled the axle out, installed the caliper, and reinstalled the axle. It worked like a charm, and though it added a couple steps to the process, it ended up saving me time and, more importantly, aggravation.
Thank you for that tip Sir!! That really helps A LOT!! I use my Eastbound wedge to hold my wheel up. Removing the caliper and reinstalling the axle for removing/reinstalling wheel is a breeze!!

I am able to slide out my axle by hand. I took my wheels off almost right away when the bike was new and greased the axles.

FWIW, for the front wheel I recommend to remove both calipers. It makes it much easier to get the wheel back on.

Wheel wedge:
87A96C45-A136-4BFB-9C8D-910DF22E9FE0.jpeg
 

StephanSF

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2020
Messages
98
Location
Las Vegas, NV
Thank you for that tip Sir!! That really helps A LOT!! I use my Eastbound wedge to hold my wheel up. Removing the caliper and reinstalling the axle for removing/reinstalling wheel is a breeze!!

I am able to slide out my axle by hand. I took my wheels off almost right away when the bike was new and greased the axles.

FWIW, for the front wheel I recommend to remove both calipers. It makes it much easier to get the wheel back on.

Wheel wedge:
View attachment 68579
I'm not entirely following how that wedge works oh, it seems a little flimsy. Do you shove the wedge under the wheel until the weight is supported? I read your description of how you made it but I'm not understanding how the pieces in your description match up with the picture, but I get the general idea.. It's basically a ramp, right?

Sent from my MHA-L29 using Tapatalk
 
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ballisticexchris

Guest
I'm not entirely following how that wedge works oh, it seems a little flimsy. Do you shove the wedge under the wheel until the weight is supported? I read your description of how you made it but I'm not understanding how the pieces in your description match up with the picture, but I get the general idea.. It's basically a ramp, right?

Sent from my MHA-L29 using Tapatalk
It holds the wheel up so the axle is easy to slide in/out. The tool doubles as a bead breaker, tire irons, and holding the tire in the drop center of rim. Very slick!!

 

gunslinger_006

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 21, 2016
Messages
961
Location
Seattle, Washington
Pulled the rear for the first time tonight. Axle has mild surface corrosion, just enough to make it a bear to get out.

I will clean it well and grease it on reinstall.

This thread was helpful, though i found it after i had the wheel out.

Need to go about mounting a tire and then I will re assemble. Caught a screw today. Plugged it and re inflated roadside and rode home.


 

gunslinger_006

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 21, 2016
Messages
961
Location
Seattle, Washington
Found some of that axle corrosion that others in coastal locales have noted. Mine was all on the axle between it and the inner race of the pumpkin bearing. The bearing itself feels great.




Cleaned the axle:




Next ill use a 12ga brass bore brush to clean the inner race on the pumpkin bearing. Then its all getting greased. The axle was bone dry and i have stupidly not pulled it before now, assuming the dealer would have applied grease smh.
 
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ballisticexchris

Guest
I would recommend greasing the axles for future ease of removal.
 

BadNews

"Not properly socialized"
Joined
May 13, 2012
Messages
486
Location
Central Ohio, USA
I thought I would share my experience in removing/re-installing the rear wheel. Having put bus tires on 6 busses per day (36 tires/day) when I first got out of high school, I got pretty good at using my left foot and a large tire iron under the right side to lever/rotate the bus tire onto the lug nuts. I've adapted that to getting the rear wheel of the Tenere off and back on. As instructed by Twisties in the first post, remove the axle nut and ABS sensor, and loosen brake bolts and the pinch bolt. Then, sitting on a low stool (mine is 9" high) on the right side of the rear wheel, place your feet on both sides under the wheel. In the picture below I've just started pulling the axle out, but it shows the position of my feet (I wore boots for the bus tires). In this position you can move the tire up/down or side to side as needed to get the axle out and back in, and get the splines lined up for re-assembly. You'll have both hands available to get the caliper out of the way and the spacer dropped out. Pull the wheel towards you to remove. If the cush-drive starts to fall out, you can just reach through the spokes and slip your fingers in to push it back in (the cush-drive is not going to fall out until you've already removed the axle and the brake caliper). Use your hands to guide the wheel out as your feet are supporting the weight of the wheel. To re-install you can use your feet to help rotate the tire until the splines line up. Once the splines line up and the wheel slides onto them, your feet and one hand can hold the wheel in place while your other hand removes whatever you have holding the brake caliper up (you can see I use a bungee strap for that). Once you get the brake caliper in position, slide the spacer in place and start pushing the axle in. If it gets stuck or moves only with pressure, wiggle the wheel up/down or side to side with your feet; it should go in fairly easily. Hope this helps someone.
IMG_0570.jpeg
 

Cycledude

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Joined
Jan 29, 2016
Messages
3,997
Location
Rib lake wi
What happened to all of Twisties very good pictures in the very first post ? Without those pictures this thread is not anywhere near as helpful as it was with the pictures ! Am I the only one that’s not seeing those very helpful pictures ?
I have done the job enough times that I probably don’t really need to see the pictures but always preferred to look them over before starting the disassembly .
 

Boris

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Joined
Dec 21, 2013
Messages
2,051
Location
midlands. UK
What happened to all of Twisties very good pictures in the very first post ? Without those pictures this thread is not anywhere near as helpful as it was with the pictures ! Am I the only one that’s not seeing those very helpful pictures ?
I have done the job enough times that I probably don’t really need to see the pictures but always preferred to look them over before starting the disassembly .
I’m viewing on an iPad and can see the pics in the first post.
 
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