Rear Wheel Removal and Replacement Pictorial

Cycledude

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Jan 29, 2016
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3,998
Location
Rib lake wi
never cleaned up the axel as good as I did yesterday so hopefully next time I want to remove it things will go better.
 

fred-houston

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Joined
Sep 23, 2015
Messages
83
Location
TeXaS
Just did my first tire swap on this bike, and what a pain in the butt to put the rear wheel back on. Kind of kidding here.

For me the biggest pain in the butt was trying to get the sensor plate lined up with the brake caliper. I probably had it the first time, but with my old eyes I just could not see.

I ended up putting a little torque on the axle and looking at some instructions in this thread, I could tell it was seated correctly. Other than that it was a pretty easy process. Of course I did read this thread and took a brief look at the service manual before I started.

Thanks
 

SilverBullet

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Joined
Dec 30, 2014
Messages
1,171
Location
Harmaston, TX
Sensor plate has alot of slop to it. Just eyeball it when removing an then orientate it similar when reinstalling. Tighten axle a little and you can turn plate both ways a little to verify it is hitting the stops in both direction.

Another good tip for wheel reinstall is to have bike in gear. If transmission is in neutral it is much harder to get the rear hub gear aligned into the pumpkin gear as pumpkin gear spins.

_

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk
 

Cycledude

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Jan 29, 2016
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3,998
Location
Rib lake wi
Many thanks to board member Twisties for the great work starting this thread way back in 2012, the pictures and everything else are great !!! I’m sure it’s helped a lot of folks !
 

RCinNC

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Aug 30, 2014
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2,816
Location
North Carolina
I printed out this "how to" post quite some time ago and made it a part of my service manual. I prefer it to the service manual.

I've been using Permatex anti-seize on my axles ever since I read a posting on Stromtroopers where a guy's rear axle got stuck in the wheel. Once I tap it out a little from the thread side with a piece of wood enough to get my fingers on the other side, it pulls right out with never any issues. Plus, it goes back in really easy during reassembly.
 

Checkswrecks

Ungenear to broked stuff
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Mar 7, 2011
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11,489
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Damascus, MD
I replaced the rear tire yesterday, which required beating the axle out with a mallet, block of wood, and lots of penetrant. Once the axle was out, it and the other parts were thick with white corrosion. This is the hazard for being regularly in the rain, doing stream crossings, and catching some salty run-off over the winter. I've never seen it this bad or had to beat the axle out.




While I normally do my own tires like last night, for the last tire change I'd been in a rush and paid a shop which didn't do any of the other steps that I normally do. The corrosion all came off with a wire brush and Scotchbrite and the pumpkin was pulled to moly lube the splines. Once everything was clean, I smeared a good layer of boat trailer bearing grease on all the steel parts (including drive shaft, axle, and inner diameters like above) before re-assembly. Note: Boat trailer bearing grease usually has more anti-corrosive additives, is inexpensive, and can be found in any car parts store.


What I'm getting to is the value of the anti-corrosive grease or something like the Permatex anti-sieze on the steel parts.
 

Sierra1

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Nov 7, 2016
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14,819
Location
Joshua TX
I might be behind the learning curve, but I was having trouble getting the axel out....until I loosened the caliper support bracket/rod thingy. ::) Then it just slid right out. And when I put the wheel back on, it was just as easy.
 

Cycledude

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Jan 29, 2016
Messages
3,998
Location
Rib lake wi
Last year removing the rear axle was extremely difficult even though it was well lubed, so after it was out I used a brass wire wheel to throughly clean and lube the axel and thankfully today almost a year later the axel slid out easily like it’s supposed to, even that rubber bushing final drive thing stayed in place.
 

Boris

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Dec 21, 2013
Messages
2,051
Location
midlands. UK
Here's a few I've picked up over the time I've owned the bike. All checked and double checked.
Super Tenere Torque Settings,​
Sump plugs - 19NM​
Oil Filter - 16NM​
Shaft Drain - 23NM​
Shaft Filler - 23NM​
Fork axle pinch bolts - 21NM​
Front Axle - 72NM​
Rear Axle - 125 NM​
Front calipers - 40 NM​
Rear Swing Arm axle pinch bolts - 25NM​
Rear brake torque arm - 30NM both ends.​
Rear and Front shell speed sensors - 7NM​


4 Acorn nuts on driveshaft - 41NM​


Top and bottom dog leg - 59NM​


Bottom shock bolt - 49NM
Top shock bolt - 40NM
Suspension joint to frame - 59NM
 
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RCinNC

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Aug 30, 2014
Messages
2,816
Location
North Carolina
Ever since my V-Strom days, I've used Permatex anti-seize on the axles. I've ridden a lot in the rain, and never had any issues being able to pull the axle out by hand.

Fred: I know the "old eyes" feeling. If you're having trouble seeing if the caliper is lined up correctly with the boss on the sensor plate, just put a dab of white out on the boss and the outside of the little "V" shape on the caliper. It'll make it easier to see.

When I changed my tires last week, I tried something new. The idea came from this thread. One of the issues I always encounter on the rear tire is when the hub cover comes loose when you're trying to remove the wheel, and the cush bumpers get loose and jam everything up. This time, I bought some wood shims from the hardware store. I took four of them, lined them up side by side, and glued them to a 1/4" plywood backing plate. I made two of these plates. I then slid the plates under the rear tire and snugged them up so they supported it. I then pulled the rear axle all the way out, removed the caliper, and slid it back in through the wheel. The wedges kept the rear tire supported so the hub cover didn't start pulling away from the hub while the axle was removed. Once the axle was back in, you have a lot of clearance to shift the whole tire to the right, and with the axle supporting the whole wheel, the wheel and hub slide right out of the final drive as a unit, with no separation. Then you just pull the whole axle out, and the tire and hub just come off as a whole unit, with no fuss.

When I put the wheel back on, I reversed the procedure. I threaded the axle through the wheel into the final drive, without installing the caliper. That made it really easy to line the splines on the hub up with the final drive, without trying to hold the wheel up with brute force while trying to line everything up. Once the hub and final drive were mated, I put the shims under the tire to hold everything in place, pulled the axle out, installed the caliper, and reinstalled the axle. It worked like a charm, and though it added a couple steps to the process, it ended up saving me time and, more importantly, aggravation.
 

craigincali

Active Member
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May 21, 2012
Messages
148
Location
A Town called Hell !!
As far as the caliper goes. I drew lines using gray and black Sharpies on the caliper and plate before removing the axle. When I replaced the caliper and plate I realigned the marks.
 

VRODE

Easy Does It
Joined
Aug 7, 2014
Messages
940
Location
Northern Vermont
As usual relied on memory to do the removal/install instead of viewing this first. Everything’s cool now but damn, after going thru this I really miss my old VFR (4 lug nuts off, 4 lug nuts on...done)
 

Fordf350

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Joined
Oct 29, 2019
Messages
175
Location
Pinehurst Texas
Hey guys the very first picture In this post shows axle slightly pulled into swing arm, is this the way that is most common? I am second owner and changed tire today it appears that the first owner may have tightened pinch bolt with axle flush then torqued axle. Mine now looks like first post picture and seems like it is in its natural resting place with no stress on swing arm.
 
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