Rear wheel bearings already!

T4ten

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Hi. Bought my 2018 bike a few months ago with 4000 miles. Now 7000 and needs new rear tyre. When I took the wheel off both bearings were very notchy when rotating with fingers. I will replace them but am really surprised at this mileage. Recently checked those on my st1300 at 50000 and smooth as silk. The rest of the assembly looked well greased and in excellent condition. Is there anything I should be checking that might cause this premature wear? Don't know the prior history but bike in pristine condition so assume not abused. Thanks for any advice.
 

EricV

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This is not common for Super Teneres. I would guess someone got too aggressive with the pressure washer. Not uncommon at dealerships.

My '12 still had the OEM bearings at 109k when I sold it. I figure 100k is a good time to replace wheel bearings if you haven't had any issues by then. Some have had to replace them earlier due to off road riding or other issues, but it's still not common.
 

Cycledude

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Right rear wheel bearing failed on my 2013 Tenere at 45,000 miles
At the time rear wheel bearings from Yamaha were not available and had been on back order for weeks a couple dealers told me. So I ordered two sets of All Balls bearings from eBay so I would have an extra set.
By the time the bearings arrived and were installed I paid for 5 nights in a motel.
 
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SilverBullet

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...
My '12 still had the OEM bearings at 109k when I sold it. I figure 100k is a good time to replace wheel bearings if you haven't had any issues by then...
Your '12 is now at ~124k with original bearings. My '13 is at 137k with all original bearings. No signs of any issue but I have already ordered front wheel and steering stem bearings to replace soon as preventative maintenance. I have two complete rear wheels that swap back and forth so each is at only approx half that mileage so no plans for a PM replacement until around 200k miles.

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Don in Lodi

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There's a guy on another forum broke down on the far side of the Sierras looking for a rear bearing. Can't remember the miles. Ground one to dust. I've seen where the tension of the spacer between the two bearings will cause an unusual feeling when turning one side or the other. Oh, somebody blew a tooth on the pinion gear! First I've heard of. Going on a month down time.
Ha, it's Zepfan from here that's stuck on the other side of the mountains. Maybe it was that thread that mentioned the gear tooth as well.
 
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Checkswrecks

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There've been a few with earlier than expected bearing replacements, but torque the wheel properly and most seem to last a long long time. Obviously, if you constantly do water crossings or dust I guess I'd expect less.

As for a pinion tooth, I guess sooner or later somebody will find a way to damage one of these rear ends, but will also guess that there was something post-manufacture as a cause.
 

T4ten

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Well thanks to the info on here, taking the rear off was easy, compared with st1300. Whilst the bearings on both sides were definitely very notchy in place, when I removed them they were very smooth. I wonder if checkwrecks comment about being over torqued explains this. All replaced anyway and all good. Don't mind as it felt good to be getting a grip on some maintenance on this bike. Feels like I know it a little more intimately. Just wanted to feed back that the general impression of bearings lasting along time appears true. Just fitted arrow headers and off to Dyno today. Looking forward to result but have to say, having put 3000 miles on in relatively short period of time, I have really enjoyed the standard setup. Don't think it really needs much tweeking at all. This definitely feels like a keeper
 

T4ten

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These are the three items I used. I got the removal tools for my st1300 as I needed the 25mm. This kit was good for the 20mm spline bearing but wheel bearings are 22mm so had to buy separate collet. Link is just to id the item. Can't see the UK link I used. The drivers were really handy. Quite expensive for a job that may not be done often but I didn't want to take any chances with doing this wrong. Hope that helps.


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/160879465873

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/113657149699

FreeTec 50pcs Bearing Press Kit... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075V1KS5B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
 
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RCinNC

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These are the three items I used. I got the removal tools for my st1300 as I needed the 25mm. This kit was good for the 20mm spline bearing but wheel bearings are 22mm so had to buy separate collet. Link is just to id the item. Can't see the UK link I used. The drivers were really handy. Quite expensive for a job that may not be done often but I didn't want to take any chances with doing this wrong. Hope that helps.


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/160879465873

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/113657149699

FreeTec 50pcs Bearing Press Kit... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075V1KS5B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I believe I bought a similar tool (I think it was marketed by Pit Posse). Is this the one where you place the collet into the bearing from one side, then insert the beveled iron into the split in the collet from the other side, and then drive the bearing out using the beveled iron? I haven't had a chance to use mine yet, though I did find one video on Youtube that showed it. Did you have any trouble using it on the bearing in the final drive?
 

T4ten

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I used s collet to remove bearing in the spline thingy (pumpkin?) that is part of the rear wheel. It worked for all the bearings really well. Make sure that collet is resting on solid surface and give several solid taps to wedge the 'chisel' tool in. Then make sure collett is not resting on anything and drive the bearing out. I started with tentative strikes and increased force until bearing came out. Felt a bit hairy using force but as bearings are being binned it's not a problem. For me trickiest bit was driving new bearings in. I had left in freezer overnight and used lots of light taps to drive in. Took time to ensure that I was driving in square. The tool is great as it ensures all force goes on outer race. Hope that helps
 

T4ten

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The other thing I did was to hopefully prevent the originally notchy feel that led to my concerns. I ensured the bearing on the brake disc side sat solidly against the inner lip and then drove the other bearing in so it was only slightly holding the spacer in place rather than preventing it from moving as I found it. Course, torquing the axle bolt may be the final determinate on how tightly everything sits so my efforts may have been pointless. Once installed wheel rotated freely and bike rides fine.
 

scott123007

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The only "possible" downside to doing the install the way you did, is if you didn't wedge the spacer between the two bearings tightly by tapping the outer race, once you tighten the wheel, it is now the inner race that is under tension.
 

gv550

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I had a similar experience with my front wheel, I mistakenly used rear axle nut torque on the front axle and after loosening it and applying the correct torque I thought the bearings felt rough. I removed the wheel and the bearings did not turn freely so I bought new ones. After removing the old bearings they felt smooth and rolled free, but replaced them anyway.
 

BaldKnob

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My 1st Gen rear bearings failed around the 90K mile mark and the replacement (AllBalls) failed within 20K. The front wheel lasted till I traded it in. I’m sticking with the Yamaha part if/when this situation happens.

Before freezing the bearings, carefully remove the grease seal and pack in some waterproof grease as most times the factory stuff is a little sparse.
 

klingklang

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I was saying to myself exactly the same thing. It was supposed to be just a tire change and it is ending with bearings (very notchy) and major wheel repair because of the corrosion inside. 2016 and a tad under 40000 km I'll keep my words now about Yamaha because of the frustration....I would itch some persons...... The only positive, I know why I had a slow leak increasing.....
 
R

RonH

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Wheels all corroded inside + bearings bad. Been through a lot of water and had tires changed using bad lube=dishsoap. I have never had a wheel bearing go bad in over 500,000 miles of riding. Did have the corrosion in the wheel problem though from using dishsoap.
 

klingklang

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"I have never had a wheel bearing go bad in over 500,000"
maybe I don't have your experience but have, I think, a respectable 237K. For years,I note the odometer at my first spring ride. I had to change a bearing at 135K once and suspected the heavy side hit on the rear the day before....a lunatic driver.... where I was, a fishing village, I was lucky to find a bearing. Ironic, it was from a yamaha outboard engine base if I remember... That is why I am surprised.
 

MattR

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I’ve had to change all bearings in my Kawasaki and I know several others that have had to do the same with under 16k miles. I don’t know if yamaha bearings are better quality than kawasaki but I’m expecting to see wear in my S10 soon


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