Nikolajsen
"Keep it simple"
I bent disc brake normaly don't make any sound.
It could be my eyes, but I don't see a shiny calliper piston. The only shiny bit I see is the wheel spindle (axle) and the pinch boltYes, the washer is in the right place, but it is a little odd how the caliper piston is shiny. Something may not be right in there, because the piston is out further than it has was. (that is why it is shiny)
Except possibly when the bent section brushes past the padI bent disc brake normaly don't make any sound.
Old pads were put back in so the pistons had to travel further back out ?Yes, the washer is in the right place, but it is a little odd how the caliper piston is shiny. Something may not be right in there, because the piston is out further than it has was. (that is why it is shiny)
A new disk would probably be cheaper than having someone even glance at it.If it is a damaged brake disc it can be difficult to detect and almost impossible just looking at it. You'd need a DTI to measure possible runout or you may be able to use an engineering straight edge and feeler blades. Easy fix though if that's what it turns out to be
My anxiety about this is ever increasing. I hope its not the caliper.Yes, the washer is in the right place, but it is a little odd how the caliper piston is shiny. Something may not be right in there, because the piston is out further than it has was. (that is why it is shiny)
This seems like the issue. It is very intermittent and only when I have a long medium to hard braking scenario.Except possibly when the bent section brushes past the pad
For what its worth the piston and seals are only about $35 (new caliper is $200) Rear rotor is $75. I'd throw the $100 in parts at it along with new pads to remove the "easy and cheap" options for a fix.My anxiety about this is ever increasing. I hope its not the caliper.
I am probably going to remove the tire and take a little sand paper to the disc to see if it helps.For what its worth the piston and seals are only about $35 (new caliper is $200) Rear rotor is $75. I'd throw the $100 in parts at it along with new pads to remove the "easy and cheap" options for a fix.
Leave the wheel and tire on the bike, put it on the center stand and run it in 1st gear. Do it when the bike is cold so that first startup has a bit higher idle speed and you can sit to the side with some sandpaper, emery cloth, etc. and have a go at it. Best bet would be to wrap the sandpaper or emery cloth around a small block of wood so you can scuff the entire swept braking area evenly.I am probably going to remove the tire and take a little sand paper to the disc to see if it helps.
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Thanks! Any idea the grit of sandpaper I should use?Leave the wheel and tire on the bike, put it on the center stand and run it in 1st gear. Do it when the bike is cold so that first startup has a bit higher idle speed and you can sit to the side with some sandpaper, emery cloth, etc. and have a go at it. Best bet would be to wrap the sandpaper or emery cloth around a small block of wood so you can scuff the entire swept braking area evenly.
Do be aware that running the bike in gear on the centerstand will set off some warning lights on your dash but those will go away after your first ride.
The last time I had a rear disk to clean up I think I used 400 or 600 grit.Thanks! Any idea the grit of sandpaper I should use?
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Concur. They all do that.The clank clank is the drive train lash. You don't do that on a centerstand and expect silence, she's going to argue with you about it.
Remember that the 270 degree crankshaft has an uneven firing order, so will tend to accelerate and decelerate in speed, not perfectly uniform. Those speed changes will cause all of the lash normally built into the drive line to rattle back and forth as the whole driveline follows the varying speed of the crank. This would not be heard with the tire on the ground and rolling.Listen to my bike on the center stand. Does this sound normal? This was running it in first gear:
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