Rear brakes rubbing sound / feel

[Squibb]

That's plain cruel to the driveshaft - best not repeated.

I had something similar when the local dealer spooned on a new set of tyres on my FJR. The S10 is a similar setup, but with the caliper sitting above rather than below the rear axle. As I applied the rear brake, it was making a strange grinding sound.

At first I thought a pad had been replaced the wrong way round, back facing the disc. However the dealer insisted it was the pad support clips that were somehow touching the disc when the brake was applied.

Unfortunately I wasn't able to oversee the work personally so whether I was being given a dose of BS I know not - all I can say is the issue was sorted in their workshop in less than one minute flat, so it was certainly something pretty simple & caliper related, as the washer/spacers/caliper support were definitely set correctly.

 

[2daMax]

Maybe there is a slight misalignment between the axle/wheel/disk assembly to the brake axis. I get it on the front wheel if it wasn't aligned correctly. The disks heats up more than normal if the alignment is slightly off and takes a hit on fuel consumption. I dun fully understand the rear axle on how it is mounted but if it anywhere the same as the front axle, then it could be misalignment (slight).

The front axle is screwed tight onto the left fork while the right fork, it simply floats or slides over the axle. The 2 clamp bolts on the right fork simply locks the floating axle and keeps its position. After a tire change, I did noticed there was more drag and the disk heats up more. After some research, it was recommended to do the following to get the alignment of the disks to the brake caliper:

1. Loosen Fender bolts, 2 Clamp bolts.
2. Bike on center stand.
3. Get on the bike and push down on the handle bar while holding the brake lever a few times.
4. While keeping the brake lever held down, tighten up the 2 clamp bolts.
5. Then release the front brakes, and then tighten up the fender bolts.

if this still doesn't do well, then add in loosening up the lower triple bolts (4X) in Step 1. And in Step 4, add in tightening up the lower triple bolts after the 2 clamp bolts. I gained 1.7 km/l by just doing this.

Now, for the rear, if it works on a floating axle over the right side swing arm, where the clamp bolt is, then I suppose loosening up the clamp bolt, then hold the rear brake in lock position, tap on the rear tires a few times to loosen up, then tighten up the lock bolts would get the alignment back in. (Bike on double stand).

Another potential source could be sticking piston on the rear caliper. Have the piston removed, the cylinder walls inspected and cleaned then lubed with brake fluid. Then replaced with new fluids. I haven't done on any of my brake calipers but did it on the clutch slave. Cleaning it and lube improves the clutch effort on the left hand.

 

[cavenger]

Well here I am another riding season and after a rear brake flush, my odd rubbing sound during extended medium to hard braking continues. It is ever so slight but noticeable to me and I am sure you guys can understand how we all want our brakes to work right. I think I am going to just take it in. It will probably take them forever to look at it and cost me an arm and a leg. It’s either that or replace the rotor. I am leaning towards taking it in to get them to inspect everything about that rear wheel. Plus it has a recall on it. Oh well. It’s only money.


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[HeliMark]

Well here I am another riding season and after a rear brake flush, my odd rubbing sound during extended medium to hard braking continues. It is ever so slight but noticeable to me and I am sure you guys can understand how we all want our brakes to work right. I think I am going to just take it in. It will probably take them forever to look at it and cost me an arm and a leg. It’s either that or replace the rotor. I am leaning towards taking it in to get them to inspect everything about that rear wheel. Plus it has a recall on it. Oh well. It’s only money.


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If it makes you feel comfortable, and safe, it is money well spent.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Remember that the pads in these disc brakes don't have retraction springs so they normally rub lightly and heat the disc.

 

[cavenger]

Remember that the pads in these disc brakes don't have retraction springs so they normally rub lightly and heat the disc.

Yeah. All I know is it never did this.


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[ballisticexchris]

Remember that the pads in these disc brakes don't have retraction springs so they normally rub lightly and heat the disc.

What disc brakes have retraction springs?

Yeah. All I know is it never did this.

I'm thinking you might not have anything wrong with your brakes. Does the bike move around ok when in neutral and pushing it? If so I would just ride it and keep an eye on everything. The main thing with any mechanical device is to learn the distinct sound and feel of it. It might be you are just not used to this bike and its characteristics.

 

[WJBertrand]

Agree, sounds normal unless it takes an unusual lot of effort to turn the rear wheel on the center stand.

Most disc brakes don’t have return springs but our old Toyota Sienna minivan did. There were a couple of wire springs that fit into little holes on the edges of the front pads. You had to squeeze them together to install them, they were loaded so as to spread the pads. I figured it was an EPA mileage thing.


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[Checkswrecks]

What disc brakes have retraction springs?

Way back in the 70s there were a couple bikes that had a simple bent metal spring on each pin and the seal now does the same thing in providing a little spring force to move the piston back, but the seal movement is minimal.

Seems to me at least one of the pedal mountain bikes my office mate had was equipped with a pad return spring, but it was a mechanical brake.

 

[ballisticexchris]

That's good info Bob and Jeff. I will tell you that this Super Tenere is all new to me. This is my first bike ever with antilock brakes and unified braking.

I am absolutely amazed at how well the brakes stop on a bike that weighs in at over 600lbs.

 

[Paletes3]

weighs in at over 600lbs.

... After we add all the stuff we love like crash bars and panniers and wife
It weighs 257 kg (566 US lbs) wet (fuel and fluids)

 

[Tenman]

I had a bent disc. It could be felt through the pedal.

 

[Philb714]

It's not your ABS sensor (9) rubbing on the ABS 'rotor' (8) under the wheel cover causing the noise???... I was checking a mates bike a week or so ago and noticed that the corrosion under the sensor rotor had lifted it so that it actually started touching the plastic sensor in three places causing the end of it to wear away.

You wouldn't 'feel' it but you might hear it....

 

[cavenger]

I bought another disc. I will let you guys know how it goes.


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