Powerlet wiring options

[Eville Rich]

I'm planning to replace the 12 volt accessory plug with a Powerlet socket. I don't want it to be always hot, so it needs to integrate with the ignition. I have a couple of options:
1) Wire it into the current accessory plug circuit (the OEM plug will be removed)
2) Wire it to my fuse block (EB 3CS, I have a spare slot). This is connected to the four pin connector and wired to the ignition circuit.

My core questions are about the wiring for each of these options:
1) If I use the existing plug's circuit, can the wiring handle higher amps? I don't just want to naively change the fuse to something higher. The wiring gauge didn't look too bad and for the wiring run amp/voltage charts suggest 14 gauge wiring can handle 15 amps at a ~6 foot run. Even if it's 16 gauge, a run of ~4 feet can handle 15 amps.

2) If I run it to the fuse block, I'm assuming I need at 14 or 16 gauge wire. The fuse block is in the right side fairing, so a run of less than 4 feet should be fine to handle higher amps.

I'd like to use the existing circuit but am quite unsure of the wiring. Can it safely handle more than the 3 amps of the current fuse?

Honestly, I don't plan pulling large amps through the Powerlet. 15 amps is waaaay over my current equipment. But I'd like to plan for flexibility should I ever want heated gear. My 595LM circuit is connected to my EB 3CS fuse block now, so not drawing much of its capacity.

Thanks!
Eville Rich
2016 S10

 

[fac191]

I

I'm planning to replace the 12 volt accessory plug with a Powerlet socket. I don't want it to be always hot, so it needs to integrate with the ignition. I have a couple of options:
1) Wire it into the current accessory plug circuit (the OEM plug will be removed)
2) Wire it to my fuse block (EB 3CS, I have a spare slot). This is connected to the four pin connector and wired to the ignition circuit.

My core questions are about the wiring for each of these options:
1) If I use the existing plug's circuit, can the wiring handle higher amps? I don't just want to naively change the fuse to something higher. The wiring gauge didn't look too bad and for the wiring run amp/voltage charts suggest 14 gauge wiring can handle 15 amps at a ~6 foot run. Even if it's 16 gauge, a run of ~4 feet can handle 15 amps.

2) If I run it to the fuse block, I'm assuming I need at 14 or 16 gauge wire. The fuse block is in the right side fairing, so a run of less than 4 feet should be fine to handle higher amps.

I'd like to use the existing circuit but am quite unsure of the wiring. Can it safely handle more than the 3 amps of the current fuse?

Honestly, I don't plan pulling large amps through the Powerlet. 15 amps is waaaay over my current equipment. But I'd like to plan for flexibility should I ever want heated gear. My 595LM circuit is connected to my EB 3CS fuse block now, so not drawing much of its capacity.

Thanks!
Eville Rich
2016 S10

I ran an SAE pigtail comes out just under left hand side of front seat. Use it for heated gear and Optimate charger. Easy to get off bike without pulling the wireing and to plug it in. Tidier aswell. 10 amp fuse.

 

[Eville Rich]

I have a SAE plug I use for my battery tender. I could use that for heated gear, too.

Regardless, I'm sort of fixated on the Powerlet. We have Powerlet sockets on both our 250s and various gadgets and geegaws that plug in. I even built a Powerlet harness to power my Garmin 595 on the 250s without that annoying hardwired loom (the S10 has the ridiculous 595 loom). I'm mildly irritated that the S10 only has the 3 amp cigar plug, so I'm going to be removing its offense from my eyesite. Heck, I even found narrow gauge washers that will help fill the gap between the grotesquely large cigar plug hole and the more svelte Powerlet plug form factor.

I'm probably edging toward using my fuse block as I can be confident of the wire capacity, but would prefer to use the existing harness. I'll figure out the wire gauge and make a decision.

Eville Rich
2016 S10

 

[patrickg450]

run the 14 gauge, you will be fine

 

[Eville Rich]

run the 14 gauge, you will be fine

Do you or anyone know what the stock wiring is from the OEM socket/harness? I'd default to 14 if I run my own wires.

Eville Rich
2016 S10

 

[tubebender]

If it was me, I would run my own wire.
The fuse is there to protect the wire, so 12 amps would be 4 times the rated capacity.
Add to the fact that it's bundled in the harness, so I think the risk / reward ratio would be tilted in the wrong direction.

 

[patrickg450]

I dont know the size but I'd suspect 16, going from memory.....

It is small (er) than what I did. I DID use the factory wire for my aftermarket grip heaters. I am sure the folks at Yamaha made it the correct size and I have been using it for 6 or so years........so I just added the heaters and a relay/switch.

 

[moaralpha]

Is removing that powerlet easy? I want to swap mine out for one that has a voltmeter built in.

 

[Eville Rich]

If you mean removing the 12 volt plug, it is easy. There's a toothed plastic nut under the black plastic panel that need to be loosened and removed. You can trace the wiring back to the harness. To get at the harness, remove the upper plastic panel and I'll back the soft shroud that covers the connector. If you don't have too many wires and will install a new plug with separate wiring, you can tuck the oem plug under the plastic body panel and leave it plugged in.

As others have noted the oem plug wiring and fuse isn't necessarily made for too many amps. Running separate wires will give you flexibility.

Eville Rich
2016 S10

 

[moaralpha]

If you mean removing the 12 volt plug, it is easy. There's a toothed plastic nut under the black plastic panel that need to be loosened and removed. You can trace the wiring back to the harness. To get at the harness, remove the upper plastic panel and I'll back the soft shroud that covers the connector. If you don't have too many wires and will install a new plug with separate wiring, you can tuck the oem plug under the plastic body panel and leave it plugged in.

As others have noted the oem plug wiring and fuse isn't necessarily made for too many amps. Running separate wires will give you flexibility.

Eville Rich
2016 S10

That's exactly what I needed to know! Thanks!

 

[Eville Rich]

If you add an actual powerlet plug it's a but smaller in diameter than the oem plug. I installed a powerlet in the oem location using two fender washers to help bridge the gap. I can't recall the size, but got the washers from my local hardware store.

Eville Rich

 

[Checkswrecks]

Do NOT just put a Powerlet where the existing cigarette socket is, because the fuse (and size of wire) for that socket is only 3 amps, while the Powerlet is designed for 10A. Even worse is that the wire is routed with ECU-related wires. This means if the cig lighter wire melts, it can short critical wires and you really don't want to have to pay for a new ECU.

There are numerous threads about people adding fuse blocks of various types. Here's the FUZEBLOCKS product:

Initially on my first Super Tenere I had a home-made one, using a terminal strip from Home Depot and just below that is the relay from a junkyard car.