Pad change

[Boris]

I've now done about 14k mile on my Gen1 bike and have never really been happy with the performance of the brakes, feeling that they lacked any real bite, suspecting that the pad choice was the problem.

After a total of almost 17k miles I decided enough and changed to EBC HH pads.

Am now happy these pads are so much better, more bite and improved stopping.

Recommended ::008::

 

[Checkswrecks]

Cool. Thanks!

 

[EricV]

You will see increased rotor wear with the HH pads. This may not be an issue for your needs, but something to keep an eye on when you change pads next time.

 

[RCinNC]

From personal experience, I'd recommend that you check your rotor thickness now and write it down somewhere, and check it again in a few thousand miles. I put EBC pads on my rear brakes a while back, and after about 8000 miles I had a very pronounced lip worn into the OEM rotor. I ended up replacing the rotor. If you're going to be an EBC user with OEM rotors, I'd probably factor the cost of replacing rotors into your budget. I know that not everyone seems to experience this, but enough have that I do believe the EBC pads are harder on the rotor than stock pads.

 

[Nikolajsen]

I really think that the feeling of better brakes, is connectet with the brake pads. And if the brake pads is with metal in the pads "Sintered", it will feels like it brake better, BUT it also will wear the rotor out faster.

And I don't understand this talk about "better" brakes. I think that if you can get the ABS to work, then the brakes can't get better.....The only thing is the force used on the lever...but really, then just use more force.
I think it is a matter of getting used to the brakes. Just like getting used to the throttel

 

[Boris]

I really think that the feeling of better brakes, is connectet with the brake pads. And if the brake pads is with metal in the pads "Sintered", it will feels like it brake better, BUT it also will wear the rotor out faster.

And I don't understand this talk about "better" brakes. I think that if you can get the ABS to work, then the brakes can't get better.....The only thing is the force used on the lever...but really, then just use more force.
I think it is a matter of getting used to the brakes. Just like getting used to the throttel

Really? Better brakes will stop you quicker, and engage the ABS sooner, in a shorter distance. The EBC pads are HH as were the original pads that I took out (was stamped on the back of the pad, along with the brand, Sumitomo).

I'm quite shocked that you think the only thing is the force on the lever?

I'm quite happy to sacrifice quicker disc wear for better braking. I used HH EBC pads for 45k miles on my previous bike, the discs were well within limit at approaching 60k miles.

The brakes don't only feel like they have improved, they have.

 

[Nikolajsen]

Yes, of course better brakes stops you quicker.
But that is exactly the point, I don't think the brakes gets better, it just feels like it.

 

[Nikolajsen]

What I mean is this, if you make a proffessionel test on how many meters you need to go from 100 km/t to 0. There will not be that much of difference.
You will gain a lot more differense in changing to a tire that stick more to the tarmac.

 

[Boris]

I think I'll go explain the offside rule to the Mrs instead ;D

 

[Crew Chief]

I think I'll go explain the offside rule to the Mrs instead ;D

Maybe you can explain it to me sometime......

I use the HH pads on my Concours and yes, they do wear the rotors a bit, but the braking is much better. It doesn't have ABS. Strangely, I tried a couple of different EBC pads on my DRZ and went back to the OEM. Others ave done the same, but I don't fully understand why the EBC don't work on the DRZ as well. I suspect it's the alloy in the rotor..

 

[Juan]

From a technical point of view, Nikolajsen is correct. If a break pad can lock the rotor (or trigger the ABS) then that break pad is doing it's job properly. However, the harder break pads (probably more expensive) may require less force on the break lever to lock the rotor (or trigger the ABS) then the softer pads.

Since we're going scientific, if you're stopping a bike from 100 kph to 0 kph over a distance of, say, 150 meters, different break pads may require different force on the break lever to achieve the objective. But the same kinetic energy has to be converted to the same amount of heat to stop the bike (the basics of the Law of Conservation of Energy). Consequently, the softer break pads would require more force to transform this kinetic energy to heat.

Naturally, this assumes similar tyres, since kinetic energy is converted to heat not only at the rotor, but also at the tyres.

 

[Boris]

The thing you're missing is that , the harder more aggressive brake pad will build its heat and friction quicker, meaning a shorter stopping distance.

In the 2 years and approx 14k miles I've have had my Super Tenere I've never once had the ABS cut in. Last month on a Scotland trip I had someone pull out on me whilst I was getting a fair move on, and the brakes IMO just weren't good enough. We all know how to use the brakes, but when you ask for a bit more through the lever you expect that point where there's that additional bite, this didn't happen. I'd always thought the brakes were lacking a bit, but had never until that point used them in an emergency situation.

The tyres and suspension are not the issue here, for me it's the standard pad set up, proven by the change of pads and the now sharper, improved and better performance.

 

[jjc1957]

If you think the Super Tenere brakes are lacking ride a Harley. I put 35,000 on my Deluxe and OMG the brakes were lacking by design. Single disk on a 700 lb bike just didn't work that great no matter what pad I tried. My Tenere brakes are more like my Moto Guzzi Norge which had the best brakes of any bike I have ever owned. My ABS kicks in a lot when I am off road "rear only"

 

[Sierra1]

??? IMHO, all bike have different braking characteristics. With the Tenere, if I want to stop quicker/shorter, I squeeze harder/more. Yamaha chose the best pad/rotor combo for the bike's design envelope. Do you really want sport bike stopping power in deep sand or loose gravel. I am a fairly aggressive rider, and I have NEVER found the OE pads/rotor(s) to be lacking. Less lever input does not mean "better brakes". Like I said, just my opinion. ::001::

 

[Boris]

Of course if you want to stop quicker/shorter, then just squeeze harder, but only as far as the standard pads will let you.

A more aggressive pad will just stop you even quicker/shorter, the harder you squeeze the lever.

Sport bike stopping power is still managed by control and feel at the lever.

I'm not and haven't suggested less effort at the lever?

Think tyres and suspension, both work adequately as standard, but both can be improved.

 

[EricV]

@Boris - do you feel you have better ability to modulate the brakes with the HH pads?

 

[Boris]

@Boris - do you feel you have better ability to modulate the brakes with the HH pads?

Yes, definitely.

There's more braking reward for the same effort, however when you really want some brake, the extra effort makes a bigger difference, the brakes really work hard. The control doesn't change, just the reward.

The original pads just seem to lack that real bite when asked.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Aren't brakes only as good as the traction the tire gives you? Single disk Harleys notwithstanding. If you go to the point of lock up, aren't brakes giving their all, whether they lock at x or y number of milliseconds? As mentioned, HH seems to be oem, they were on mine. It's the Sintered that chew at rotors. I honestly don't know what Sintered does differently. Different brands of brakes use different compounds to achieve the braking performance they believe the factory needs or wants. Sometimes they just feel different. When they get all loaded up with waste material, they'll feel different again. My organic drum brakes worked fine on my past rides, right up to and past lock. Nothing fancy needed.

 

[Sierra1]

Many manufacturers are using ceramic pads. Less heat problems. When you throw some semi-metallic pads on a bike/car that came with ceramic, they are going to chew the heck out of the rotors. Learned this the hard/expensive way. :

 

[Checkswrecks]

Aren't brakes only as good as the traction the tire gives you? ...

Yes, but being able to lock up the tire is only part of the story. The rate of increasing friction being applied and feed-back to the lever actuator (that's YOU ) are just as crucial.