Heres a little video I made last year but never put up..
Yamaha Super Tenere Japanese Euro switch modification
Yamaha Super Tenere Japanese Euro switch modification
Ordering a left switch cluster to have a Euro hazard & flash to pass
- Thread starter Checkswrecks
- Start date
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
Maybe the US DOT think it's too many functions for US riders to handle and any one time ::025::Koinz said:
fredz43
Well-Known Member
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Actually the US DOT figured out that buyers of the 14 Super Ten's are a cut above the rest and allowed Yamaha to put all that plus cruise functions on the handlebar switches. ;DDogdaze said:
I performed this mod a couple of weeks ago using the Kawasaki Versys switch cluster. As has been mentioned, the Versys and S10 clusters are made by the same mfg. (the only difference I could see was the S10 turn signal switch has the word "OFF" printed on the top. The Versys switch doesn't). Instead of transplanting the guts of the old cluster into the new one, I decided to splice the new cluster into the old harness (I figured since I bought new switches, might as well use 'em).
Modifying the European cluster involves less soldering but you still have to route the harness over to the relay box. The Versys switch mod requires more soldering (I prefer to solder and heat shrink) and no re-routing required. Given this, it's probably a wash as far as time goes (it took me about 45 min. start to finish once I figured out the wiring scheme). Plus, it's about half of the cost of the European version.
Things you will need:
Versys switch cluster (see previous posts for part no. I think I paid 50-60 bucks online).
If you're not going to crimp: soldering iron, rosin core solder, heat shrink tubing, heat gun.
S10 service manual wiring diagram with color code chart.
Tie wraps.
DVM for checking switch continuity and verifying correct wire colors.
I want to stress here that the following wire colors were for MY switch. Different model years, production runs etc. can result in changes. Verify all switch functions with your DVM before final connections are made! Also, I found it helpful to tie wrap the wires for the different circuits in order to separate them both on the switch side and the harness side i.e. tie wrap the two horn wires together, the two high beam wires, etc. I cut the old switch from the harness approx. 8 inches back from the switch. I cut the Versys harness about 6 inches back from the connector end. I had a fair amount of slack in the new harness when I was done which I simply tie wrapped back out of the way under the fuel tank (better to build your harness too long than too short). Like everything else, YMMV.
Now for the wiring. Again, double check everything with a DVM. Also, pull back the outer sheath of the Versys harness about half way (you will slide the sheath back down to cover your splices when everything's finished).
First, on the Versys harness, solder the two Green wires together and the two Gray together (Green to Green, Gray to Gray). The following instructions will be Versys harness to S10 harness in that order. For any discrepancies, refer to the factory wiring diagram:
High Beam/Flash to Pass:
Red/Blue to Yellow, Blue/Yellow to Red/Yellow
Clutch:
Black to Blue/Yellow, Black/Red to Black/Yellow
Horn:
Black/Yellow to Brown (Chocolate), Black/White to Black/White
Turn/Hazard:
Two spliced Gray to Green, Orange to Brown/White, Two spliced Green to Brown
The new harness will be routed identically to the old (may help to take photos first before removing any of the old components). Very important- after routing, turn the bars lock to lock and make sure you have enough slack and that the new harness does not bind or otherwise interfere with anything!
Modifying the European cluster involves less soldering but you still have to route the harness over to the relay box. The Versys switch mod requires more soldering (I prefer to solder and heat shrink) and no re-routing required. Given this, it's probably a wash as far as time goes (it took me about 45 min. start to finish once I figured out the wiring scheme). Plus, it's about half of the cost of the European version.
Things you will need:
Versys switch cluster (see previous posts for part no. I think I paid 50-60 bucks online).
If you're not going to crimp: soldering iron, rosin core solder, heat shrink tubing, heat gun.
S10 service manual wiring diagram with color code chart.
Tie wraps.
DVM for checking switch continuity and verifying correct wire colors.
I want to stress here that the following wire colors were for MY switch. Different model years, production runs etc. can result in changes. Verify all switch functions with your DVM before final connections are made! Also, I found it helpful to tie wrap the wires for the different circuits in order to separate them both on the switch side and the harness side i.e. tie wrap the two horn wires together, the two high beam wires, etc. I cut the old switch from the harness approx. 8 inches back from the switch. I cut the Versys harness about 6 inches back from the connector end. I had a fair amount of slack in the new harness when I was done which I simply tie wrapped back out of the way under the fuel tank (better to build your harness too long than too short). Like everything else, YMMV.
Now for the wiring. Again, double check everything with a DVM. Also, pull back the outer sheath of the Versys harness about half way (you will slide the sheath back down to cover your splices when everything's finished).
First, on the Versys harness, solder the two Green wires together and the two Gray together (Green to Green, Gray to Gray). The following instructions will be Versys harness to S10 harness in that order. For any discrepancies, refer to the factory wiring diagram:
High Beam/Flash to Pass:
Red/Blue to Yellow, Blue/Yellow to Red/Yellow
Clutch:
Black to Blue/Yellow, Black/Red to Black/Yellow
Horn:
Black/Yellow to Brown (Chocolate), Black/White to Black/White
Turn/Hazard:
Two spliced Gray to Green, Orange to Brown/White, Two spliced Green to Brown
The new harness will be routed identically to the old (may help to take photos first before removing any of the old components). Very important- after routing, turn the bars lock to lock and make sure you have enough slack and that the new harness does not bind or otherwise interfere with anything!
Attachments
npj1966
Member
I am a very happy camper as I ordered the switch from Japan. This order from website to my house in Connecticut to the total of 7 days. Followed this forum for installation including the soldering of the wires in parallel. Overall I am very happy to have hazards again.
NPJ
NPJ
yz454
Member
Did the same thing .
HHH
New Member
Re: Ordering a left switch cluster to have a Euro hazard & flash to pass
So did I.yz454 said:
GarageMonkey thanx for the info how to do all this and pictures ( I'm a picture kind of dude haha) I just finished getting my Versys switch swap and now my S10 is legit!!!! ;D
Kurgan
Well-Known Member
Dusting off an oldie but a goodie...
I decided to order the LH switch from Tohru, 2 of them, (wife has a new 2013 S10 as well). They shipped on the 18th, cleared customs and were at my door yesterday. Had a mind to try buying a used switch from another bike and rewiring it as others have, but took the easier solution for a few more dollars. Will jump the yellow and yellow/white, rewrap and be glad to have those missed features.
I decided to order the LH switch from Tohru, 2 of them, (wife has a new 2013 S10 as well). They shipped on the 18th, cleared customs and were at my door yesterday. Had a mind to try buying a used switch from another bike and rewiring it as others have, but took the easier solution for a few more dollars. Will jump the yellow and yellow/white, rewrap and be glad to have those missed features.
Several years a go when I did mine, I tied a piece of brick layers string to the connector of the OE harness before I puled it out. I tied it to the new harness and it really helped to guide the new connector and harness through the mess. Hope this helps.Kurgan said:
Kurgan
Well-Known Member
Through the mess is right. I popped open some of the harness ties and still haven't found exactly where that main connector snakes it's way through to the right side panel. Even the horn wiring is crazy with all those zipties and wherever it disappears by the bottom of the steering head! I will definitely use the string method you shared when I get more time to tackle it.
Xclimation
Well-Known Member
Older thread I know:behindbars said:
But I wanted to give many thanks to BehindBars !!! I lived part of my life in Spring and have a lot of family in Houston so next time I'm in town....I owe you a refreshment of your choice!! (Or 2..)
Followed your instructions and luckily wire colors in these instructions matched what I had with 1 exception.
The exception being I have an aftermarket Wolo Horn and did a little head scratching and figurin.
Worked like a charm!
Hazards are a must in my opinion for anytime one pulls over on the side of the road for whatever reason. I think I may use the flash to pass even though I've never had this on a bike. I'll probably use it for other communication purposes besides telling other drivers it's clear to get over.
One thing to note for anyone doing this in the future: Chocolate Brown wire color is the light brown wire. Brown is the darker brown wire. (They both looked like chocolate to me) I just looked at the original controller/cluster to verify.
I bought this Versys Controller on Ebay for $40USD The add said it was pulled from a new bike and I was skeptical and expected to do some clean up. But It was in mint brand new condition! Just can't figure out why it was pulled from a new bike?
Next up: FJR starter kill switch and will use the hazard switch for auxiliary lights! (Got this one on ebay for $40USD) and it should be here tomorrow.
I know this thread is old, however, my bike came with the Euro style left controls installed by the previous owner. All I had to do to get my flash to pass trigger working is soldier a wire from the yellow side of the flash trigger to the yellow side of the high beams switch. No other modifications needed. Routed the wire inside of the controls along with the other wires so it looks factory and soldiered the jumper in place. All works perfectly now.