Oil Change

Ramseybella

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SilverBullet

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Ramseybella said:
So no mention of setting it on side stand to drain Maximum Essence? :D
And it better directs the oil drain flow into the catch pan. Especially for me with the Rumbux bar right there the center stand drain makes a mess. Also ignore their advice of starting bike and then checking the sight glass. Doing so will almost certainly have you overfilling.

_
 

Ramseybella

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Where did you see 4.4 quarts required ? The books for both my 2013 and 2018 both say 3.6 quarts with filter.
Precisely 3.59 with filter according to the manual, but who's counting...
I've always did a quick 4qt's and pulled it back when it started showing residual flow out of the bottle.
Why they ask you to run the engine then check the oil with a dry sump motor is odd.
It just made thing unnerving and made no sense.
I just let it sit over night on the centerstand and check it the next day.
I do the same when i change it, when it's hot I'll pull the plug and let it drain out over night then pull the filter the next morning and put it on the side stand and let if finish off.
Have a cup of coffee finish the job and go for a ride.
My bike is in the shop for the 2012-2013 recall part, won't be ready till maybe Thursday!!!:confused:
 

Cycledude

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Precisely 3.59 with filter according to the manual, but who's counting...
I've always did a quick 4qt's and pulled it back when it started showing residual flow out of the bottle.
Why they ask you to run the engine then check the oil with a dry sump motor is odd.
It just made thing unnerving and made no sense.
I just let it sit over night on the centerstand and check it the next day.
I do the same when i change it, when it's hot I'll pull the plug and let it drain out over night then pull the filter the next morning and put it on the side stand and let if finish off.
Have a cup of coffee finish the job and go for a ride.
My bike is in the shop for the 2012-2013 recall part, won't be ready till maybe Thursday!!!:confused:
I believe draining on the side stand accounts for the extra oil yours requires, believe I did that on the first oil change on the 2013 but haven’t bothered doing that since. Like you I usually take it for a short ride after oil change then park in garage on center stand then check window the next day.
 

Chaz

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Hey guys!
Don’t know if its the right place to post this but ...
I made my oil change when I bought the bike (used) this winter with Suzuki moto 10w40 oil.Oil was really overdue.
I rode the bike for 4000km and I made another oil change (with 10w40 Yamalube) because the shifter was really hard to shift down and up... Someone can explain that!?
 

Cycledude

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Hey guys!
Don’t know if its the right place to post this but ...
I made my oil change when I bought the bike (used) this winter with Suzuki moto 10w40 oil.Oil was really overdue.
I rode the bike for 4000km and I made another oil change (with 10w40 Yamalube) because the shifter was really hard to shift down and up... Someone can explain that!?
Sounds like you need to lube the shifter, there is a thread here somewhere that explains exactly how to do it, it’s pretty easy.
Ok I found it
https://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?threads/problems-shifting-lube-shifter-and-brake-pivot.15230/
 
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Ramseybella

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I like the side stand method. More comes out and it’s less messy, cause the oil flows away from the bike.
I do both plugs as you will find it will still drain off another close to a half cup of residual oil...
Never the less this bike is forgiving if you just pop a filter on dump a gallon in after you have removed all the oil and your good to go.
 

EricV

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You always need to drain from both plugs. :eek: One is engine, the other is sump. You're never going to get all the oil out with only one plug pulled. Sort of moot if you're only changing the filter every other time too...

And for all those checking the oil cold... STOP THAT. It's not even close to accurate. It would be on a wet sump bike, but not on a dry sump bike. You need to warm the bike up to 160F IIRC, per the owner's manual, then park on the center stand. Warm oil thins out a bit. It needs to circulate after a change and warm up to the specified temp before you get an accurate reading on the sight glass.

FWIW, it's not really that big a deal. If you just dump in the spec of 3.59, give or take, you'll be fine. With a dry sump motor the motor only has about a quart in it at any given time anyway, so less oil just means faster recirculation of that oil. More will only end up in the breather a bit, especially with high rpm running over extended periods. Thus the air box drain.

EU spec is to change every 10k kms. US spec is every 4k miles. I split the difference at 5k mile intervals.

Some oils get dirty faster and can cause harder, notchy shifting. I usually notice the shifting getting a little notchy near the end of an interval. I do lube my shift linkage too.
 

Checkswrecks

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Service Manual—4.4 Quarts is for a brand new disassembled engine.
This is a dry sump engine, so you won't get all of the oil out. DISREGARD the 4.44 qts unless you are re-assembling the engine from parts.

Replace the filter and use 3.59 its just like the good book says. (A bit more doesn't hurt for those using most of a gallon.)

[Edit - Brother Eric and I were responding at the same time. Note that we said the same thing. There's a reason. btw - I also change on the 5,000s.]
 

Checkswrecks

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Hey guys!
Don’t know if its the right place to post this but ...
I made my oil change when I bought the bike (used) this winter with Suzuki moto 10w40 oil.Oil was really overdue.
I rode the bike for 4000km and I made another oil change (with 10w40 Yamalube) because the shifter was really hard to shift down and up... Someone can explain that!?
While old oil will lead to slightly harder shifting in a lot of wet clutch bikes, you need to read this thread.
https://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?threads/problems-shifting-lube-shifter-and-brake-pivot.15230/
Basically, it lays out how to lube the shifter with each oil change.
 

Sierra1

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....I usually notice the shifting getting a little notchy near the end of an interval....
My ol' FJ was that way. Didn't even need to watch the mileage. Every time I missed a second gear shift, time to change the oil; always at 3k, +/- 100 miles. Change the oil and wait for the first miss shift; repeat.
 
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