Off-The-Road Clutch slave cylinder for lighter clutch lever pull - Install

[Gigitt]

I just installed a Off-The-Road clutch slave cylinder on my 2015 XT1200ZE S10
I chose the Titan-grey colour.


link: http://www.off-the-road.de/en/XT-1200Z/Bodywork/Clutch-slave-cylinder-XT-1200Z-Super-Tenere.html


Installed:

All I can say is WOW. ::014::
Clutch is much lighter.

Have not gone on a ride yet as it has started raining.

Took just over 1 hour as i had some issues. You should be able to do it in 30-45 min.

Have all you bits and bobs close by.
Hex for 3 retaining bolts
Hex for Banjo Bolt
Torque wrench - 10Nm for 3 retaining hex held bolts, 30Nm for Banjo Bolt
Locktite Blue
Grease
Rags/ paper towel
Newspaper
2 litres of water to neutralize spilt brake fluid.
Small bottle with wide opening to put the clutch hose/banjo in - I used a 300ml juice bottle



Level bike - I put it on the center stand.
Stick it in 1st gear

Removing the factory slave cylinder:
- Undo the little clip that holds the 2 wires to the clutch hose 2in above the slave cylinder
- Get some paper towel fold it over and feed it under the slave cylinder. pour some water on it to soak up and this is used to help protect the gearbox paint from spills.
- Crack the 3 slave retaining bolts - but keep them tight as this just makes it easier to undo later.
- Undo the banjo bolt and place the banjo into the small bottle to catch any brake fluid drips. Secure the bottle and hose somehow, mine just sat in the factory crash bars.
- Undo the 3 retaining bolts.
- remove the slave cylinder by slipping it towards Left side of of engine, then tilt it up a bit to clear the gearbox case as it slips of the pin.
- Put slave cylinder it to one side - it will leak brake fluid so maybe on newspaper
- there are 2 alignment tube sleeves in the 2 lower mounts that slip in behind and then into the engine case - do no loose these! I did loose one but found it and hence my extra time. There was no mention in the service manual of these nor in the instructions from Off-The-Road.
- Remove the metal mounting plate (called clutch release cylinder plate)
- remove the wet paper towel
- cleans the surfaces


Installing the Off-The-Road slave cylinder:
- the alignment pins would not slip into the space at the back of the new slave cylinder mounts, like they do in the factory cylinder. the holes were just a tad too small and the pins would have needed a vice or press to press them in - I had no instruction if these are needed or not. The sleeves have a split so I took a chance and using pliers pressed one side in so that the ends now overlap and reshaped the sleeve round with the pliers - this reduced the diameter enough for them to fit. YMMV so be careful.
- dab a bit of greese on the clutch pin
- Replace the metal mounting plate (called clutch release cylinder plate) with the words OUT facing you and not the engine.
- slip the slave cylinder into place - you may need to depress the slave cylinder to get it in place and onto the clutch pin
- put some Locktit blue on the retaining bolts, tighten and torque them to 10Nm
- Take the old bleed nipple from the factory cylinder and put it on new cylinder.
- put new crush washer on banjo bolt then hose banjo then put other new crush washer on and hand tighten the bolt into into the slave cylinder.
- now there is NO banjo alignment stop peg on new cylinder... so here is a tip to get good spacing for the bleed nipple
- put your 8mm ring spanner onto the bleed nipple an then use one of the old crush washed as a spacer between the bango arm and ring spanner. As you tighten the banjo bolt the arm will move against the crush washer. Tighten banjo bolt to 30Nm torque. Remove the crush washer spacer and now you have space to still get the wrench on and off the bleed nipple.
- replace clip that hold the 2 wires to the clutch hose.
- follow service manual and bleed you clutch as normal.
- check for leaks
- wash down bike

Enjoy the light clutch


Here are the sleeves installed:

Hers is the bleed screw gap:

___
EDIT: 13 APRIL 2017 : included in install instructions the replacement of metal plate (called clutch release cylinder plate)
---

 

[Dogdaze]

Nice right up ::008:: Please update when you get to ride it, I would like to know if the clutch drag is still present and about 1st gear engaging.

 

[Gigitt]

Nice right up ::008:: Please update when you get to ride it, I would like to know if the clutch drag is still present and about 1st gear engaging.

I just went for 20km loop ride around the city to get some Gellato - salty caramel and Sicilian pistachio thanks for wondering!! haha

Bike was great. There is definite reduction in pull and hold strength required for commuting - would still love more as I got issues with both wrists and left elbow.

I don't know what you mean about clutch drag when engaging 1st gear.
Bike feels the same engages the same - just the lever requires less strength to pull and hold.
I tested the clutch engagement on the center stand and when selecting 1st gear rear tyre did not move.

 

[Dogdaze]

Thanks for coming back to me, especially about the salty caramel ice cream
I was hoping it would cure my clutch drag on the bike, mine will spin up on the center stand once 1st is engaged and surge at standstill while in gear at lights if I blip the throttle, even after the new clutch basket upgrade. I hope it works out for you and helps with the wrists ::008::

 

[Gigitt]

Thanks.

OK I have none of that clutch drag you talk of. sounds like the clutch disc need measuring - as something is binding or over spec.

Can the clutch be adjusted - I mean be pushed in more ?

 

[Dogdaze]

No adjustment ability on these. I did replace the clutch basket, with and new set of plates and steels, along with new diaphragm spring, made it worse!! Put the 'old' plates and steels back in and that stopped the bike lurching harshly when engaging first gear but not the drag. Oh well.

 

[serhan]

No adjustment ability on these. I did replace the clutch basket, with and new set of plates and steels, along with new diaphragm spring, made it worse!! Put the 'old' plates and steels back in and that stopped the bike lurching harshly when engaging first gear but not the drag. Oh well.

When you pull the clutch in and put it in first gear, with the clutch still pulled in, the rear wheel starts spinning after the initial clunk?


S.

 

[Davesax36]

Do the instructions say loctite and give a torque spec? That doesn't usually go together as loctite really screws up torque accuracy.

 

[Dogdaze]

When you pull the clutch in and put it in first gear, with the clutch still pulled in, the rear wheel starts spinning after the initial clunk?


S.

Not on initial engagement, but if you let the clutch out the wheel spins up and only way to stop it with the clutch pulled in is to apply rear brake..................

 

[Gigitt]

Do the instructions say loctite and give a torque spec? That doesn't usually go together as loctite really screws up torque accuracy.

No specific torque instructions from Off The Road:

Standard tightening torques in Nm for bolted connections with strength class 8.8. For special tightening torques refer to your specialist workshop

But from the service manual:

Clutch release cylinder bolt
10 Nm (1.0 m-kgf, 7.2 ft-lbf)
LOCTITE®

I followed the service manual 10 Nm with LOCTITE®

Cheers

 

[Juan]

Do the instructions say loctite and give a torque spec? That doesn't usually go together as loctite really screws up torque accuracy.

Not sure I agree with you on this one. If you torque as soon as you apply Loctite, then there's no screwing up of the torque accuracy. The specified torque would relate to the size of the bolt, the material (be it metal, plastic etc) and the function of the parts being bolted. A correct torque is therefore important in many a situation, though not as important in a few other situations. Loctite simply prevents the bolt from loosening up with vibrations and therefore preserves the accurate torque setting.

 

[Gigitt]

Not sure I agree with you on this one. If you torque as soon as you apply Loctite, then there's no screwing up of the torque accuracy. The specified torque would relate to the size of the bolt, the material (be it metal, plastic etc) and the function of the parts being bolted. A correct torque is therefore important in many a situation, though not as important in a few other situations. Loctite simply prevents the bolt from loosening up with vibrations and therefore preserves the accurate torque setting.

No actually wet LOCTITE acts like a Lubricant.
Look it up. Specifically you torque bolts to conditions. If no LOCTITE is mention then you torque it dry.

I will add this... I would have used LOCTITE / Threadlock on the bolts anyway... Stainless Steel bolts and Aluminium threaded case is not a good mix - galvanic corrosion and galling occurs.
Threadlock 1) prevents galling when torquing bolts, and 2) help prevent galvanic corrosion.

One of my bolts was showing signs of galling and its virtually a brand new S10!!!

YMMV

 

[Ron Earp]

about 1st gear engaging.

On my 2015ES first gear engages with a fairly mighty clunk. I've bleed the system twice to no avail and I feel like the clutch has a tiny delay before the release occurs. When I let out on the lever the disengagement isn't instantaneous. I'm going to change the oil this evening, it is due, and see if there is any improvement.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Not sure I agree with you on this one. If you torque as soon as you apply Loctite, then there's no screwing up of the torque accuracy. The specified torque would relate to the size of the bolt, the material (be it metal, plastic etc) and the function of the parts being bolted. A correct torque is therefore important in many a situation, though not as important in a few other situations. Loctite simply prevents the bolt from loosening up with vibrations and therefore preserves the accurate torque setting.

+1 to what Dave and Gigitt wrote.

Using LockTite and similar products is a lubricant which reduces running and seating torques. You can reduce the published torque by 20% or so. This can make a big difference in not stripping holes on bikes using softer (cheaper) metal for cases and fasteners, like in the ol' KLR650 line.

 

[Juan]

+1 to what Dave and Gigitt wrote.

Using LockTite and similar products is a lubricant which reduces running and seating torques. You can reduce the published torque by 20% or so. This can make a big difference in not stripping holes on bikes using softer (cheaper) metal for cases and fasteners, like in the ol' KLR650 line.

Loctite's guide says:

Benefits of Loctite® Threadlockers
•• Lock nuts and bolts against vibration and thermal expansion
•• Seal against corrosion and leakage
•• Reduce inventory costs
•• Suitable for all shapes and sizes of fasteners
•• Act as a thread lubricant
••Maintain critical adjustments of the assembly
•• No on-torque adjustments needed
•• High chemical resistance

It's from their website http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/us/content_data/168592_LT4985_Threadlocking_Guide.pdf

I take the penultimate benefit listed above as meaning that you do not need to adjust for torque settings. But I'm not sure this is what it means by "No on-torque adjustment needed".

 

[Gigitt]

•• No on-torque adjustments needed

maybe that means that after LOCTITE has set you don't need to re-touque, like some say to nip it up after 100 km just to check the nut is on!

 

[WJBertrand]

On my 2015ES first gear engages with a fairly mighty clunk. I've bleed the system twice to no avail and I feel like the clutch has a tiny delay before the release occurs. When I let out on the lever the disengagement isn't instantaneous. I'm going to change the oil this evening, it is due, and see if there is any improvement.

Regarding that delayed release. Have you disassembled and thoroughly cleaned and lubed the clutch lever pivot?


-Jeff

 

[greg the pole]

I just installed a Off-The-Road clutch slave cylinder on my 2015 XT1200ZE S10
I chose the Titan-grey colour.


link: http://www.off-the-road.de/en/XT-1200Z/Bodywork/Clutch-slave-cylinder-XT-1200Z-Super-Tenere.html


Installed:

All I can say is WOW. ::014::
Clutch is much lighter.

Have not gone on a ride yet as it has started raining.

Took just over 1 hour as i had some issues. You should be able to do it in 30-45 min.

Have all you bits and bobs close by.
Hex for 3 retaining bolts
Hex for Banjo Bolt
Torque wrench - 10Nm for 3 retaining hex held bolts, 30Nm for Banjo Bolt
Locktite Blue
Grease
Rags/ paper towel
Newspaper
2 litres of water to neutralize spilt brake fluid.
Small bottle with wide opening to put the clutch hose/banjo in - I used a 300ml juice bottle



Level bike - I put it on the center stand.
Stick it in 1st gear

Removing the factory slave cylinder:
- Undo the little clip that holds the 2 wires to the clutch hose 2in above the slave cylinder
- Get some paper towel fold it over and feed it under the slave cylinder. pour some water on it to soak up and this is used to help protect the gearbox paint from spills.
- Crack the 3 slave retaining bolts - but keep them tight as this just makes it easier to undo later.
- Undo the banjo bolt and place the banjo into the small bottle to catch any brake fluid drips. Secure the bottle and hose somehow, mine just sat in the factory crash bars.
- Undo the 3 retaining bolts.
- remove the slave cylinder by slipping it towards Left side of of engine, then tilt it up a bit to clear the gearbox case as it slips of the pin.
- Put slave cylinder it to one side - it will leak brake fluid so maybe on newspaper
- there are 2 alignment tube sleeves in the 2 lower mounts that slip in behind and then into the engine case - do no loose these! I did loose one but found it and hence my extra time. There was no mention in the service manual of these nor in the instructions from Off-The-Road.
- Remove the metal mounting plate
- remove the wet paper towel
- cleans the surfaces


Installing the Off-The-Road slave cylinder:
- the alignment pins would not slip into the space at the back of the new slave cylinder mounts, like they do in the factory cylinder. the holes were just a tad too small and the pins would have needed a vice or press to press them in - I had no instruction if these are needed or not. The sleeves have a split so I took a chance and using pliers pressed one side in so that the ends now overlap and reshaped the sleeve round with the pliers - this reduced the diameter enough for them to fit. YMMV so be careful.
- dab a bit of greese on the clutch pin
- slip the slave cylinder into place - you may need to depress the slave cylinder to get it in place and onto the clutch pin
- put some Locktit blue on the retaining bolts, tighten and torque them to 10Nm
- Take the old bleed nipple from the factory cylinder and put it on new cylinder.
- put new crush washer on banjo bolt then hose banjo then put other new crush washer on and hand tighten the bolt into into the slave cylinder.
- now there is NO banjo alignment stop peg on new cylinder... so here is a tip to get good spacing for the bleed nipple
- put your 8mm ring spanner onto the bleed nipple an then use one of the old crush washed as a spacer between the bango arm and ring spanner. As you tighten the banjo bolt the arm will move against the crush washer. Tighten banjo bolt to 30Nm torque. Remove the crush washer spacer and now you have space to still get the wrench on and off the bleed nipple.
- replace clip that hold the 2 wires to the clutch hose.
- follow service manual and bleed you clutch as normal.
- check for leaks
- wash down bike

Enjoy the light clutch


Here are the sleeves installed:

Hers is the bleed screw gap:

that looks tasty.
Added bonus that it works better still..nice.

 

[AVGeek]

On my 2015ES first gear engages with a fairly mighty clunk. I've bleed the system twice to no avail and I feel like the clutch has a tiny delay before the release occurs. When I let out on the lever the disengagement isn't instantaneous. I'm going to change the oil this evening, it is due, and see if there is any improvement.

On my 2012 (Gen 1), engaging first gear has always been clunky, unless I blip the throttle while holding the clutch lever in, then engage first.

 

[Ron Earp]

Regarding that delayed release. Have you disassembled and thoroughly cleaned and lubed the clutch lever pivot?


-Jeff

I have. The delay isn't in the handle, it seems to spring back quite rapidly. I think the "delay" is in the slave or the plates themselves, maybe some sticking? I'm not sure.

Going to knock the oil change out and see if shifting improves. On some bikes I've had an oil change is like magic, and, I do not know what the PO had in the crankcase anyhow.