O2 Sensors

midlife

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Hi Folks,

My ECU is on it's way back to me after a reflash. The engineer emailed me saying to disconnect the O2 sensors after reassembly. Can any one tell me what they look like and where they are located.... and are they simple to disconnect. many thanks in advance.
Rob
 

Checkswrecks

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Re: CO2 Semsors

Does he mean the oxygen sensors? Why did he say that those should be removed for a reflash?
 

Dogdaze

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Re: CO2 Semsors

midlife said:
Hi Folks,

My ECU is on it's way back to me after a reflash. The engineer emailed me saying to disconnect the CO2 sensors after reassembly. Can any one tell me what they look like and where they are located.... and are they simple to disconnect. many thanks in advance.
Rob
Did he say why?? as it is not normal for that request. Of course you would then have to install block off / eliminator plugs And who did the reflash?
 

Don in Lodi

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He wants it to stay in open loop? That's not the right way to do things.
 

midlife

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Hi Folks,

Checkswrecks ... Yes I did mean O2 sensors and have now edited post to reflect that..Sorry.

No idea why he has asked - email reads "Please trace the wires from both o2 sensors and disconnect them once the ecu is fitted"

It was Chris at CJS at Bristol..... The guy that Rasher recommends
 

midlife

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Ok ,,,, found Rashers original post about the CJS flash and it reads:

Option One - Flash Only:- £199 (Plus postage, or drop off / pickup ECU)

* Remove restrictions in both modes
* Turn off the O2 sensors and improve fuelling in the closed loop area
* Spark map mods and removal of the massive advance in the neutral map

The bike will also feel smoother and lose the off-idle stumble some people whinge about.

Rasher will no doubt be along soon and explain... I am none to technical!
 

Don in Lodi

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Looking forward to more info. I'm pretty sure the system won't even go closed loop with the O2 sensors disconnected. There are those gizmos that can be plugged in to fake the O2 reading...
 

~TABASCO~

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After my flash from Ecunleashed, I pulled mine out with my set up... Has run tip-top ever scenes... If you like, you don't have to remove them, just unplug them....
 

jbrown

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Heated O2 sensors like the ones on our bikes can be damaged or have their lifetime reduced by leaving them in the exhaust flow while disconnected. So if you plan on using them in the future, it's best to remove them and install plugs.
 

~TABASCO~

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jbrown said:
Heated O2 sensors like the ones on our bikes can be damaged or have their lifetime reduced by leaving them in the exhaust flow while disconnected. So if you plan on using them in the future, it's best to remove them and install plugs.
good point !
 

Rasher

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Removed mine as the Arrow headers come with plugs, another useful feature of Arrows is it makes mapping each cylinder much easier as there is no balance pipe in front of the sensor holes so CJS could use the Arrow holes for putting their wideband sensors in during dyno setup.

Asked Chris about the Sensor removal and got this:

The o2 sensors are there for one purpose. That's to ruin your ride to keep Mr Euro 3 happy.
I guess we all know that, for the US folks Euro 3 is the latest emissions regs from the European parliament that controls 90% of UK laws these days.

With o2 sensors active you cannot richen up the lean spots in the 2000 to 4000rpm range and fix your ride because the sensors will grass to the ecu and the ecu will take the fuel back out - this is in simple terms

The sensors are actually narrow band sensors, they are slow and twitchy.
Sounds like my riding style.

If the bike had real oxygen 6 wire wideband sensors like a bosch ecu with real self learning capabilities you could simply go to the target AFR map set it to what you wanted and the ecu would learn and adapt that new value in ten mins riding

This is how the car reflashers can get you a reasonable ride without seeing a dyno
I assume this is applicable to the Dynojet Autotune systems :question:


With the ECU-U Flash I had tried with the sensors connected and disconnected and tried O2 eliminators and the surge remained whatever I tried, and although it was not too hard to avoid / ride around most of the time it bugged the hell out of me.

Although I have still not got used to it not being there and often find myself "bracing" for a lurch that never happens when I let the revs drop to the point where it used to surge.
 

jbrown

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Innovate sells wide band A/F gauge setups that have a programmable output that can be used to simulate a narrow band O2 sensor. It appears that the programmability would allow you to select the A/F ratio switch point. If that is really the case, then you could adjust the closed loop mixture to whatever you want.
 
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