The most likely reason for your no start issue is the simplest one. It's flooded. What you might not understand is that the excess fuel has washed down the cylinder walls and removed oil, thus hugely reducing compression. Between the over rich condition and the low compression, it's not starting.
Pull the EFI fuse again.
Crank it until it's starting to pop and trying to catch.
Put the fuse back in.
Jump the battery to a car/truck.
Now, start with the key off, kill switch to stop and side stand down with bike in neutral.
Remember that the key switch and kill switch reset things. If you make a second attempt at cranking, you need to reset first to shut down the headlights and reset the cold start routine.
Now, key on, (make sure it's fully in the run position), kill switch to run, and crank with the throttle 3/4 open. Keep cranking until it starts. Don't go over 30 seconds.
It should struggle and then catch. It will smoke some and the exhaust will stink of rich fuel.
If it doesn't start the first time, reset everything and try once more.
After that, call it and take it to the dealer. Bikes with over 50k miles on the original can chain tensioner have been known to suffer CCT failure.
The primary cause of the classic hard start is firing up the bike cold, then shutting it down before it fully warms up. Interrupting the cold start sequence can cause an over rich condition on the next start. If you know this and realize it, then go to 3/4 to WOT immediately and keep cranking, it very nearly always starts.
This often occurs when a new owner washes the bike, then fire it up to move it back into the garage.