Need to change standard SHOCK

Boris

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Not in the US, however I'd have no hesitation in using a Penske shock. A high quality and highly rated product!
 

escapefjrtist

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hi guys,

found penske uk, spoke to a guy called alex gave him my weights and wifes etc looking inti it for me quick question to you guys in the USA would you be happy with penske as a shock for our bikes thanks
rob
You know where I stand Rob, have Penske shocks on both my Tenere and FJR.

The FJR shock is going on ten years old, two FJRs and close to 100,000 miles. Tenere shock is just over five years old. After a couple bad experiences with local [so-called professional] suspension shops I purchased the tools/equipment to rebuild the shocks. Every two years both get treated to fresh oil and new seals. Simple to do and I know the job has been properly done.

~G
 

bimota

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Hey Boris,

harding up the rear shock i,ve played about abit but got it better for me solo riding, still need to sort something out for 2 up.
Can i ask if you know or anybody else please front forks a few times grabbed a hand full front break and the forks feel to soft as in sometimes feel if there bottoming out, can you give me an idea how to stiffen these up standard i know you can mess with internals, but as they are what do i tweak to get them firmer

rob
 

Dogdaze

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Hey Boris,

harding up the rear shock i,ve played about abit but got it better for me solo riding, still need to sort something out for 2 up.
Can i ask if you know or anybody else please front forks a few times grabbed a hand full front break and the forks feel to soft as in sometimes feel if there bottoming out, can you give me an idea how to stiffen these up standard i know you can mess with internals, but as they are what do i tweak to get them firmer

rob
Have you cranked the 14mm nut at the top of the forks all the way down to the last line? That will increase spring resistance but would have to play with damping and rebound to fine tune it, but would be easier to just get a set of heavier progressive rate springs installed.
 

Boris

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There's loads of adjustment in the forks, and there's no way you should be bottoming these out on regular road only use.
Preload is the 14mm adjuster at the top of the fork legs. Rebound is the flat head within the preload adjuster and compression is at the very bottom of the fork legs, under the brake mount and above the axle.

Make a note of where each is currently set and make only one or two adjustments at a time. To do this note how many lines are visible on the preload adjuster, both legs must be the same, if they aren't, then adjust to make the same. Then wind the rebound adjuster anti-clockwise, counting the clicks as you go, until it stops, note the clicks. Do the same with the other leg. Then wind both clockwise by the number of clicks so you are back where you started, again they must be the same. Then do the exact same with the compression adjuster. You now have a starting point for all adjustments.

These adjustments are mine and I'm happy with them. The cable tie on my fork legs confirms no bottoming out.

Preload - 3 lines showing. Rebound - 6 clicks in from all the way out. Comp - 3 clicks in from all the way out.

As a start to firming up dive, I'd increase compression first. A click or two clockwise each leg.
 
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bimota

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thanks boris,
so to firm up dive, increase compression slight and this is at the bottom of fork leg under brake mount i think its a flat screw driver to turn this and do 2 clicks clockwise. i,ll start there really strange only to road riding and about 2-3 times i,ve had the sensation of the forks diving easly, and along way to.
rob
 

Boris

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thanks boris,
so to firm up dive, increase compression slight and this is at the bottom of fork leg under brake mount i think its a flat screw driver to turn this and do 2 clicks clockwise. i,ll start there really strange only to road riding and about 2-3 times i,ve had the sensation of the forks diving easly, and along way to.
rob
Yes, bottom of fork legs, flat head and a couple of clockwise clicks. Both legs.

Remember though Rob, this is an adventure bike, the suspension is designed to have more travel than some other types of road bike, especially sports bikes, ifs that's what you're more used to riding.
 

BWC

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got one in the end, a UK supplier did it over 9 months interest free so had to get it.
You will be happy with the Ohlins YA013. I had it on my 12 for 69,000 km. I had it serviced with 51,000 on it. It then got moved over to my new to me 13 I bought last fall and it’s done another 35,000 since and should probably have another service in the near future. I ordered mine set up from new for single rider with panniers loaded and ended up with a 150 spring which has worked well for my riding. It took awhile of making adjustments to the rebound & dampening to get it where I like it so now I mostly just change the preload for full/empty luggage.
Compared to the OEM Yamaha, it’s nice to have a rear shock that the adjustments actually do something.

 

Tenman

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Your only choices aren't limited to OEM or aftermarket. I had an OEM shock rebuilt by a company here in the US, and it feels better than the original at about a third of the price of something like an Ohlins. New spring and new valves more suited to my weight, plus I got to keep the handy OEM preload knob. I don't know who does that sort of thing in the UK, but I'm sure there must be someone.

If money was no object I'd go with an Ohlins, but money is always a factor for me, and I'm happy with a rebuilt OEM for the kind of riding I do (lots of two up loaded touring).
Who rebuilt your OEM shock?
 

bimota

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Hi BWC,

can i ask please i know i have a 170 spring not a 150 as i am 110kg kitted can you give me some adjustments to use solo then what to adjust when wife climbs aboard.

cheers rob
 

BWC

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Hi BWC,

can i ask please i know i have a 170 spring not a 150 as i am 110kg kitted can you give me some adjustments to use solo then what to adjust when wife climbs aboard.

cheers rob
The set up data provided by Ohlins shows 16 clicks for rebound and 10 clicks for compression as the recommended starting point for set up. I’ve found that 12 clicks rebound and 8 clicks compression is what I’ve been using solo no load in the panniers. For real rough and twisty roads adding 4 more clicks compression helps firm it up nicely if needed. Loaded I adjust the spring preload to full and that’s worked well for most of my riding bearing in mind that my spring adjustment collar is turned down against the spring with approx. 22 mm of thread showing and was pinned there at the initial setup that was done for me by Ohlins. Hope some of this might help.
 

bimota

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Hi BWC,

can i ask what weight you are with riding gear on, and why a 150 spring. i ask as i,m 10kg kitted up and went for the 170 spring

rob
 

RCinNC

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I sent them several emails. No response.
Sorry Tenman, I didn't see your post until now.

I get the impression that it's a small shop, maybe even a one-man thing. I personally didn't have any trouble contacting him, so I can['t say what the issue is. You could try their phone number, (208) 561-5082 .
 

BWC

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Hi BWC,

can i ask what weight you are with riding gear on, and why a 150 spring. i ask as i,m 10kg kitted up and went for the 170 spring

rob
When I ordered the shock I filled out a work sheet from Ohlins providing some basic info. regarding weights and riding style.
With my riding gear I’m around 110 kg. With panniers and top box and a few other acc. loaded for travel it brings the total up to around 190 kg solo which is 95% of my riding. With this bit of info provided to Ohlins the shock was set up for me along with the 150 N/mm spring and so far has worked very well for my use.
 
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