My bizarre & seemingly unsolvable cruise control issues...hoping for new ideas.

Nikolajsen

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Reat tire?
On your 2014 the difference in tire wear is to big with "original" tire= CC issue
With the wheel from your 2017 the wear suits better = no CC issue.

It does compare the wheel speed on front and rear.
Both wheell have original size tire?

But this is just a guess :)
 

Skidoo

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Reat tire?
On your 2014 the difference in tire wear is to big with "original" tire= CC issue
With the wheel from your 2017 the wear suits better = no CC issue.

It does compare the wheel speed on front and rear.
Both wheell have original size tire?

But this is just a guess :)
I occasionally swap tyres subject to wear and condition independently of the other wheel and have not had an issue before on the 2017 or 2010 models.

Both wheels use recommended size tyres however wear is and has been different without issue. In this case the rear wheel appears to be the issue on the 2014 bike. I returned the wheels to the original bikes and presto, 2017 OK (new rear tyre Mitas EO7, front 50% heidenau K60) and just waiting for the 2014 mysterious intermittent CC flashing cruise light commence again.

I think it’s a little too hard for me to figure out, I just need to get out and ride more :D
 

StefanOnHisS10

Converting fuel into heat, noise and a bit motion
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My super tenere has also got the same problem with the CC, i have narrowed the search down to my front brake leaver. I am having some thoughts about the problem which i would like to share with you all.

Having read all the things that have been tried bij various people (and my own investigation) i think the micro switches are the ones to blame. The ECU expects signals from various components of the bike (depending on the type of switch it does or doesn not want to see a curtain signals, NO er NC as described earlier by MebGardner) These signals are checked by a watchdog timer, which usually is programmable by the factory or a programmer that can dig deep and knows his business. The problem, I think, is that let's say the component sends a signal every 0,10 sec and the watchdog timer checks every 0,15 sec if everything is normal. When he misses a signal he wil generate a faultcode and blocks the function.

Instead of changing out the very expensive components the problem could be solved easily with an software update from the factory. For example setting the timer at 0,25 sec. Then it needs to miss the signal twice before getting into action. This way it will ignore the "bounce" in the signal discovered by MebGardner. The factory can run simulations and test the correct timing, and making sure safety isn't an issue. I personally can't perform this but i am sure others (and Yamaha) can.

This way of problem solving is pretty common in my Job as a mechanic (mechanical and electrical) in a large factory.

Please let me know what you think and i apologise in advance if some sentences or words aren't right. English is not my first language.

Greetings
 

Farbar

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Oct 2, 2017
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Would the throttle position sensor come into play? I was wondering if it was a case of losing track of the TPS and shutting down the CC.
That’s what fixed my intermittent CC fail. Can’t remember wether it was throttle position or the air intake position sensor (the one that measure the angle at which your air intake flaps are at ) but Intjink it was the latter
 

samstoterau

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Sorry to hear you're having issues. CHECK THE SIMPLE STUFF FIRST. Sorry to yell, but really, the conditions you describe make me want to double/triple check that the brake pedal is fully returning to the up position and that the switches are not sticking for the pedal or the lever. 90% of CC issues are just this simple, a bit of crud that keeps the brake light on and tells the system to not engage the CC because the brakes are on, which is a signal to disable CC.

Are you positive that your brake light isn't on when you're getting the flashing CC light?

Have you checked the codes? Nice write up on how to do it just a bit earlier in this thread. It's really not that common a problem as it may appear, but a few have had a difficult time sorting weird issues related to the CC.
I've got some info on this if anyone is interested.
 

tallpaul

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Everyone else shares information on their experiences freely on here. Why so secretive? Tell us what you know (or think you know) and we can either learn it or ignore it as required. You're two posts in and playing games. It doesn't look good.
 

tallpaul

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Long is no problem, our attention span can take it! If it's relevant to the issue then it's not cluttering up the thread. You have read through the thread though, right?
 

samstoterau

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Anyhow, here's what I have. If it helps great. Started troubleshooting the front brake switch (fault code 90). After disassembling and cleaning the switch, I noticed that I was able to reproduce the fault. Specifically, I could hear the brake light switch solenoid (inside the electrical panel) was delayed in deenergizing. Removed the solenoid, shook it around and reset it. Seems to have cleared the fault. Test road with lots of brake application, fault did not return (had been a constant reoccurring issue). Ordering a new solenoid to replace it. This could be part of the issue some folks have with the front brake light switch and intermittent problems. As it's possibly not the switch itself, but the solenoid.
 

samstoterau

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Thanks for sharing. Have you got a picture of the part you've ordered? I'm interested to see what it looks like.
I didn't take a pic, but when they get back to me with the part # I'll post it. When I get the part I'll take a pic. But it's just a regular square solenoid. When I install, I'll take a pic of the exact location on the electrical panel.
 

AVGeek

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I didn't take a pic, but when they get back to me with the part # I'll post it. When I get the part I'll take a pic. But it's just a regular square solenoid. When I install, I'll take a pic of the exact location on the electrical panel.
Thanks for your input! Thats exactly why we're here, to work through any issues, sort them out, and document it for anyone who has the same or similar issues in the future.
 

Nikolajsen

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Anyhow, here's what I have. If it helps great. Started troubleshooting the front brake switch (fault code 90). After disassembling and cleaning the switch, I noticed that I was able to reproduce the fault. Specifically, I could hear the brake light switch solenoid (inside the electrical panel) was delayed in deenergizing. Removed the solenoid, shook it around and reset it. Seems to have cleared the fault. Test road with lots of brake application, fault did not return (had been a constant reoccurring issue). Ordering a new solenoid to replace it. This could be part of the issue some folks have with the front brake light switch and intermittent problems. As it's possibly not the switch itself, but the solenoid.
Thank you :) .
And this was not long...actually compared to many else..short :cool:
 

samstoterau

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I used the term because it's a solenoid type relay, perhaps it's not a word used much anymore. It's because it uses a solenoid to close the contacts under energisation.
 
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