Mobil 1 4t 10W40 for Super Tenere?

PolInc92

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Hello, I don't want to be responsible for another oil thread, but I just wanted to make sure that the above Mobil 1 oil is good to use for the Tenere. I tried to look for threads related to it, and I couldn't really find anything to confirm that the Super Tenere will like that oil. I was going to change my oil tonight, but I wanted to make sure it was okay, so I will put off the oil change until tomorrow.
 

sumwon

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That is what I have run in my 2012 S10 since I bought it.
 
R

RonH

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It's got rave reviews in all of motorcycling. Will work great.
 

richarddacat

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I ran Mobil1 synthetic in my FJR’s and my 97 Ford Ranger.
I put new valve cover gaskets on the Ranger at 150k and the valve train looked like new, of course I changed oil every 5k since new.

My new ST is coming up on 5k and I’m swapping over to Mobil1 then.
 

AdvToorer

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As long as it meets these specs:
Weights; 10w-30, 10w-40, 10w-50, 15w-50, 20w-40, , 20w-50
API; SG or higher, JASO-MA

you're good.
 

Checkswrecks

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As long as it meets these specs:
Weights; 10w-30, 10w-40, 10w-50, 15w-50, 20w-40, , 20w-50
API; SG or higher, JASO-MA

you're good.
Mobil1 does not meet JASO MA and tehcnically is not the best for the clutch. That said, it's been used successfully in these bikes since the beginning, and in the FJRs before that.

Personally I use Rotella T6, which does meet the JASO.
 

jjc1957

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I have used many different oils over my time and do like the Rotella T6 oil and Amsoil. I was in walmart looking at oils and I picked up some Quicksilver 10w40 full synthetic meets all requirements and cost less then $8.00 a quart and wow what a difference in engine sound and shifting. I took out Amsoil after 4,000 miles and will buy Quicksilver again. I have found it on line at walmart for $5.55 per quart. I am 3,000 miles into this oil with no problems. I didn't set out to buy Quicksilver but the place I buy my Amsoil was closed due to it was on a Sunday. I used to be a boater and have used many Quicksilver products.
 

Nerd_ADV

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That's what I use. Castrol Power 4T 10w-50. It's a full synthetic. I buy 6-packs from Amazon for less than I can find it locally.
Right that's what I was thinking. It's $50 for a 6 pack shipped to my door. Even cheaper when it's on sale. In fact it's the exact oil that was recommended in my Tiger XCX manual.
 

Bigbore4

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Don't believe everything you read on the internet, unless it is the manufacturers data sheet. I started on dino, switched to T6 at 900 miles, then to Mobil 1 4T at just short of 20K miles. I switched as I was not able to find 1 qt bottles of T6 on the road for top up. Nearly every auto parts store has the 4T. I prefer not to carry oil. I prefer not to mix brands. I'll do what I need to, those are my preferences.
 

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Sierra1

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I don't know much about oil, but I do know that car oil is different from bike oil. The bike oil had more anti-shear additives since it is also a transmission oil of sorts. The car oil will not damage the bike, but the oil needs to be changed sooner. The proof was in the pudding with my '86 FJ. With bike oil I could go 3,500 miles (ish). With car oil, it was almost exactly 2,000 miles. Because at the 2k point, I started missing gear shifts. Depending on the oil, it's still cheaper changing it sooner due to the price of the bike oil(s).
 

Bigbore4

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I don't know much about oil, but I do know that car oil is different from bike oil. The bike oil had more anti-shear additives since it is also a transmission oil of sorts. The car oil will not damage the bike, but the oil needs to be changed sooner. The proof was in the pudding with my '86 FJ. With bike oil I could go 3,500 miles (ish). With car oil, it was almost exactly 2,000 miles. Because at the 2k point, I started missing gear shifts. Depending on the oil, it's still cheaper changing it sooner due to the price of the bike oil(s).
The car oil WILL damage the bike if it has a wet clutch. The addition of friction modifiers (At API SJ I believe) will cause your wet clutch to slip. I learned that one the hard way on my FJ 1200.
 

RCinNC

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The car oil WILL damage the bike if it has a wet clutch. The addition of friction modifiers (At API SJ I believe) will cause your wet clutch to slip. I learned that one the hard way on my FJ 1200.
If the "car" oil carries the JASO MA/MA2 certification, it won't damage a wet clutch, because that's what the certification means. The lack of the certification doesn't mean it WILL damage a clutch, but the certification says it won't. I imagine some oils don't carry the certification not because they weren't safe for bikes, but because the manufacturer never bothered to have their oil tested for certification since their primary customers are car and truck owners. A general statement of "car oil will damage a clutch" is misleading. The wrong oil certainly can (like the kinds that are marketed as "energy conserving"), but not all oils marketed primarily to car and truck owners will. Rotella T6 is marketed as a diesel oil, and still carries the JASO MA/MA2 certification. So does Mobil M1 4t 10W-40.
 

Bigbore4

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If the "car" oil carries the JASO MA/MA2 certification, it won't damage a wet clutch, because that's what the certification means. The lack of the certification doesn't mean it WILL damage a clutch, but the certification says it won't. I imagine some oils don't carry the certification not because they weren't safe for bikes, but because the manufacturer never bothered to have their oil tested for certification since their primary customers are car and truck owners. A general statement of "car oil will damage a clutch" is misleading. The wrong oil certainly can (like the kinds that are marketed as "energy conserving"), but not all oils marketed primarily to car and truck owners will. Rotella T6 is marketed as a diesel oil, and still carries the JASO MA/MA2 certification. So does Mobil M1 4t 10W-40.
The OP statement statement above did not include all of this info. Agree JASO spec oils are suitable.

For the folks not completely familiar, the term "car oil" could lead them astray. I got burned by not being familiar with what changed when API advanced to SJ.
 

Sierra1

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The car oil WILL damage the bike if it has a wet clutch. The addition of friction modifiers (At API SJ I believe) will cause your wet clutch to slip. I learned that one the hard way on my FJ 1200.

All but the first couple thousand mile on my FJ were car oil. It has the same clutch in now that it was born with. Minus the wear indicator wire. Now, back in the day, I was always told not to use SYNTHETIC on a wet clutch, because it would render the clutch useless. But since I could barely afford regular car oil, synthetic was never an issue. But now? Synthetic is the norm, even on wet clutches. :rolleyes:
 
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