metal valve stems

WJBertrand

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Regarding weave and slow steering as indicators of low pressure, it depends on the bike I suppose. I haven’t had a low tire on my Ténéré yet , so I don’t know how it behaves but my ST1300 and ST1100 world run very stable with very low pressure, basically until almost 0. In a straight line you might not notice slowed steering. We have a lot of freeways here in SoCal.


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Checkswrecks

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I'd lean more towards uneven tightening of the spokes as one potential cause of the flange to crack, rather than spokes that are too tight in general. Unbalanced tension makes the rim flex more, which makes it load and unload force on the flange to a greater degree.
RC in NC -
How Limey and DCStrom got cracked rims (2 for DCStrom) is close to what EricV wrote. Both have done many thousands of miles of gravel and worse. It's always the rear which cracked and that makes sense where the fatigue fracture will happen if you think in cross section at how repeated sharp loads on the edges of the rims would transfer as back and forth bending loads at the base of the flange.
 

EricV

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Regarding weave and slow steering as indicators of low pressure, it depends on the bike I suppose. I haven’t had a low tire on my Ténéré yet , so I don’t know how it behaves but my ST1300 and ST1100 world run very stable with very low pressure, basically until almost 0. In a straight line you might not notice slowed steering. We have a lot of freeways here in SoCal.
I strongly disagree. I've ridden both of those bikes. They are no different from other bikes. Low pressure still was obvious with a front tire and steering effort increasing. I've not experienced a flat or puncture on the ST1300. The FJR is similar in performance, (thou superior, LOL), and geometry and it too was noticeable when low pressure occurred, front or back. Even with a car tire on the rear the weave could be felt.

I've ridden in SoCal a pretty fair amount. Several years in the mid 80's and while not living there, quite a few miles in rally mode since. If you're riding in a strait line on a SoCal freeway... I would like to introduce you to lane splitting. ;)

Enjoy the TPMS. The Orange system is one of the best out there.
 

RCinNC

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RC in NC -
How Limey and DCStrom got cracked rims (2 for DCStrom) is close to what EricV wrote. Both have done many thousands of miles of gravel and worse. It's always the rear which cracked and that makes sense where the fatigue fracture will happen if you think in cross section at how repeated sharp loads on the edges of the rims would transfer as back and forth bending loads at the base of the flange.
That's why I theorized that uneven spoke tension could be one cause, but not the only potential cause. Uneven spoke tension, and the repeated loading and unloading of the lesser tensioned spokes on the spoke flange, could even exacerbate the problem you've described.
 

WJBertrand

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I strongly disagree. I've ridden both of those bikes. They are no different from other bikes. Low pressure still was obvious with a front tire and steering effort increasing. I've not experienced a flat or puncture on the ST1300. The FJR is similar in performance, (thou superior, LOL), and geometry and it too was noticeable when low pressure occurred, front or back. Even with a car tire on the rear the weave could be felt.

I've ridden in SoCal a pretty fair amount. Several years in the mid 80's and while not living there, quite a few miles in rally mode since. If you're riding in a strait line on a SoCal freeway... I would like to introduce you to lane splitting. ;)

Enjoy the TPMS. The Orange system is one of the best out there.
We agree to disagree I guess. I'm somewhat amused that you disagree with my factual, experience based statement. I was there after all, where were you? What is your experience with punctures at highway speed running more or less straight with these bikes? On my ST1100, I had a rear puncture and the only indication was a heavy vibration under throttle that got worse and worse. There was no instability at speed running straight, I was actually worried about the U-Joint. I did not realize I had a deflated tire until reaching a right curve where it became obvious what was wrong. I pulled over immediately and found "0" PSI in the tire. On my ST1300 I've suffered two rear punctures and one front whilst underway in all cases at highway speed running mostly straight. In each case I was alerted by my SmarTire TPMS before any sense of instability was apparent. Then again perhaps I'm just a crap rider compared to you?

Lane splitting? What’s that? I’d never do that! Dangerous and illegal!!


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EricV

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I know that's tongue in cheek, but surely you know lane splitting is not illegal in CA?
 

WJBertrand

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I know that's tongue in cheek, but surely you know lane splitting is not illegal in CA?
I’ve only ridden bikes in SoCal for 45 years, admittedly my street experience is rather limited to only about 40 years though. How would I know anything about that?


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B

ballisticexchris

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I know that's tongue in cheek, but surely you know lane splitting is not illegal in CA?
Sorry Eric but lane splitting is 100% illegal in CA. OTOH it's perfectly legal to do lane filtering.:)
 
B

ballisticexchris

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I’m hoping someone can point me in the direction of reliable metal valve stems that work with the Tenere rims - without filing the flange.

I’m hoping to fit the Garmin TPMS to my 2012, but don’t wish to open up a can of worms with crappy and cheap valve stems that are going to leak periodically.

Thanks
Ok back to the metal valve stems for the Garmin sensors. I have been using the OEM rubber stem with my Garmin sensors mounted no issues at all for the last aprox. 1000 miles or so. I purchased some metal stems but forgot to install them when I did my recent tire change. I'm not sure if they are going to work but they look like they will fit with no modification. Here are the ones I got:

https://circuitperformance.com/shop/circuit-performance-shorty-vs33-33mm-bolt-in-valve-stems/
 

Fortech

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Any comments on whether these will work with the Tenere rims?

Show Chrome Black Straight Valve Stem - 5-801BK

974F1ABC-91B9-4007-A8BC-DE07AE860C73.png
 

OldRider

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Ya'll need to quit trying to reinvent the wheel. There is no better valve stem on the face of the earth than the old true and tested rubber valve stem, changed at every tire change.
 

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Fortech

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These appear to be 8 mm diameter, the Tenere wheels have 12 mm holes, I can't imagine how that could work. The NAPA stems I show fit 12 mm holes
Thanks, I wasn’t aware of the size of the holes for the Tenere wheels.

I appreciate you posting your NAPA found valve stems. The weight of them do deter me a little, but I will visit my local NAPA in the coming days to pick up a couple in the event I can’t find a compatible lightweight alternative.
 

Fortech

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Ya'll need to quit trying to reinvent the wheel. There is no better valve stem on the face of the earth than the old true and tested rubber valve stem, changed at every tire change.
I agree, cheap and very effective.

In my case, I am looking to install a TPMS that recommends against running rubber valve stems - thus the reason for me trying to find a metal alternative
 

Checkswrecks

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I'd suggest searching the threads of what TPMS systems have worked for others.
 

Jlq1969

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If someone has the need to put a metal valve, with nut outside, and does not want to retouch the rim, so that the nut enters, there is another type of valves and nuts, it is a question of looking for them. maybe you can retouch the faces of the washer
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F5714293-2A0F-4A53-84E7-16C86DC5E3C5.jpeg
 
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RCinNC

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Every time I see "TPMS", all I can think of is the movie "Office Space".

I now return you to your regular programming.
 

Tenman

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Ya'll need to quit trying to reinvent the wheel. There is no better valve stem on the face of the earth than the old true and tested rubber valve stem, changed at every tire change.
Couldn't agree more. Overkill for me. But to each his own.
 
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