mountainmaxman
New Member
Hey guys, I searched here and see a little info here and there about changing my tensioner to a manual adjusted one. can you point me to the thread on where to buy this and how to change it? Thanks so much
Manual timing chain tensioner info
- Thread starter mountainmaxman
- Start date
TOS
Member
There are many places to purchase and many different choices.
I choose the Graves manual, it is supposed to be one of the best, as the price reflects.
I did choose the manual, mostly because I didn't want the same problem again later with the oil pressure type. If you've researched this much you know, you Do Not want a cam chain/tensioner failure. It can cause some major engine damage and maybe even total it, depending on many specifics at time of failure.
I've put 5-6K miles on it since install and haven't had a single problem or heard a single chatter on start up.
I only have 2 or 3 pix of my install, but I bet you can find something on You Tube. I did Spark Plugs, Clutch Plates and Oil/Filter change while doing the Tensioner.
The main parts you need will be the Tensioner w/gasket and a Clutch Cover Gasket.
www.revzilla.com
Good Luck
I choose the Graves manual, it is supposed to be one of the best, as the price reflects.
I did choose the manual, mostly because I didn't want the same problem again later with the oil pressure type. If you've researched this much you know, you Do Not want a cam chain/tensioner failure. It can cause some major engine damage and maybe even total it, depending on many specifics at time of failure.
I've put 5-6K miles on it since install and haven't had a single problem or heard a single chatter on start up.
I only have 2 or 3 pix of my install, but I bet you can find something on You Tube. I did Spark Plugs, Clutch Plates and Oil/Filter change while doing the Tensioner.
The main parts you need will be the Tensioner w/gasket and a Clutch Cover Gasket.
Graves High Precision Cam Chain Tensioner Yamaha R1 / FZ-10 / MT-10/ Super Tenere | 5% ($9.35) Off! - RevZilla
Ride like the best with Graves Cam Chain Tensioners! Graves tensioners are professionally developed under strict guidelines for use in the Graves Yama…
www.revzilla.com
jrusell
Well-Known Member
There are a few videos on how to adjust a manual tensioner on YouTube. I have never seen one on a Tenere, but search for graves tensioner or manual cam chain tensioner install and you will find a few R1 videos which is exactly the same.
The biggest issue with the Tenere is the 270 degree crank which doesn't really have a spot where there isn't tension on the chain. Because of that there is a real possibly for the chain to skip a tooth if you are not very careful and keep tension on the chain when removing the stock tensioner.
Some other members have posted up how they did theirs. Search around and there are some good posts on how to do it. Probably the safest way is to plan to remove the valve cover and check the timing marks after you are finished. If it skips you run a real risk of serious damage, so be 100% before you start the bike.
Here is a link to a members site where he documents his procedure.. Scroll down the page an you will find the section on cam chain tensioner replacement.
thetenerist.wordpress.com
I did a graves install in the fall when I put my bike away for the winter, so I will give my method.
As mentioned tension must be maintained or serious damage can occur.
You need a tensioner. I chose Graves, but APE makes a good one or there are tons of cheap no-name versions out there. Make sure the tensioner locknut is loose and fully retract the tension bolt.
You need a tensioner gasket and a clutch cover gaskets well.
Put a socket on the end of the crank and turn the engine over to align the timing marks.
I chose to make a spacer to hold the cam chain tight. This way I didn't need to remove the valve cover. This greatly reduces the time needed to complete the job, but it comes at a risk.
Another member had a neat idea to make a spacer that fits behind the chain guide. I copied his idea and used a short bolt and nut. It fits snugly behind the chain guide and keeps everything nice and tight. (The zip tie in the pic is just for easy removal after.) Then remove the old tensioner and install the manual one.
After tightening down the mounting bolts, slowly turn in the tensioner until you feel it snug up. I tightened it by hand as much as I could. Then remove the spacer behind the cam chain guide.
Put your socket and ratchet back on the crank and slowly turn the engine over. While doing this use your other hand to hold tension on the the cam chain tensioner bolt. You will find as you turn the crank there will be a few spots where there will be a bit of slack and the tensioner will turn in a bit more.
Don't force it too hard just nice steady hand pressure. Probably after one full turn you won't be able to add any more.
At this point back the bolt out 1/2 turn and tighten down the locknut.
When finished turn the crank over a few more times by hand to make sure your chain didn't skip. Last thing you want to do is hit the starter and bend some valves.
Reinstall the clutch cover and you are done.
The biggest issue with the Tenere is the 270 degree crank which doesn't really have a spot where there isn't tension on the chain. Because of that there is a real possibly for the chain to skip a tooth if you are not very careful and keep tension on the chain when removing the stock tensioner.
Some other members have posted up how they did theirs. Search around and there are some good posts on how to do it. Probably the safest way is to plan to remove the valve cover and check the timing marks after you are finished. If it skips you run a real risk of serious damage, so be 100% before you start the bike.
Here is a link to a members site where he documents his procedure.. Scroll down the page an you will find the section on cam chain tensioner replacement.
Yamaha Super tenere manual Cam Chain tensioner, valve adjustment re-write and moar findings!!
I’m currently going through a friends bike front to back. It’s sitting at 59 thou km of fairly hard use. No maintenance, except oil and filter. Earlier I posted about the inner shaft…
thetenerist.wordpress.com
I did a graves install in the fall when I put my bike away for the winter, so I will give my method.
As mentioned tension must be maintained or serious damage can occur.
You need a tensioner. I chose Graves, but APE makes a good one or there are tons of cheap no-name versions out there. Make sure the tensioner locknut is loose and fully retract the tension bolt.
You need a tensioner gasket and a clutch cover gaskets well.
Put a socket on the end of the crank and turn the engine over to align the timing marks.
I chose to make a spacer to hold the cam chain tight. This way I didn't need to remove the valve cover. This greatly reduces the time needed to complete the job, but it comes at a risk.
Another member had a neat idea to make a spacer that fits behind the chain guide. I copied his idea and used a short bolt and nut. It fits snugly behind the chain guide and keeps everything nice and tight. (The zip tie in the pic is just for easy removal after.) Then remove the old tensioner and install the manual one.
After tightening down the mounting bolts, slowly turn in the tensioner until you feel it snug up. I tightened it by hand as much as I could. Then remove the spacer behind the cam chain guide.
Put your socket and ratchet back on the crank and slowly turn the engine over. While doing this use your other hand to hold tension on the the cam chain tensioner bolt. You will find as you turn the crank there will be a few spots where there will be a bit of slack and the tensioner will turn in a bit more.
Don't force it too hard just nice steady hand pressure. Probably after one full turn you won't be able to add any more.
At this point back the bolt out 1/2 turn and tighten down the locknut.
When finished turn the crank over a few more times by hand to make sure your chain didn't skip. Last thing you want to do is hit the starter and bend some valves.
Reinstall the clutch cover and you are done.
Attachments
"slowly turn in the tensioner until you feel it snug up. I tightened it by hand as much as I could. "
Here's a tip:
Whatever manual CCT you buy, before you install it, run the tensioner in and out by hand to make sure there are no rough threads.
I installed a manual CCT and ran the tensioner in by hand till I thought it was all the way in. Turned out it was not, just a rough spot in the threads and when I released the chain it jumped timing.
Here's a tip:
Whatever manual CCT you buy, before you install it, run the tensioner in and out by hand to make sure there are no rough threads.
I installed a manual CCT and ran the tensioner in by hand till I thought it was all the way in. Turned out it was not, just a rough spot in the threads and when I released the chain it jumped timing.
gv550
Well-Known Member
With a manual cam chain tensioner installed, is there enough adjustment to back it off for camshaft removal (for shim changes) or do you still need to remove the tensioner from the engine?
~TABASCO~
RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
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Vendor
GV- Probably not. It will be just in your way, anyways. When pulling the cams, just pull any tensioner.
~TABASCO~
RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Vendor
Graves ! This is a fantastic engine, please don’t stick in some cheaply made MCCT.
I’ve installed MANY of all types. Do your self a big favor and install a Graves unit if you go down this road.
Graves is the only unit that provides the oil pressure relief bypass. This allows the oil pressure circuit to continue to flow and circulate through the motor. The other “E-Bay” units simply blocks off this oil circuit. Not what Yamaha engineers were probably intending.
Just fun learning info
I’ve installed MANY of all types. Do your self a big favor and install a Graves unit if you go down this road.
Graves is the only unit that provides the oil pressure relief bypass. This allows the oil pressure circuit to continue to flow and circulate through the motor. The other “E-Bay” units simply blocks off this oil circuit. Not what Yamaha engineers were probably intending.
Just fun learning info
tabasco,
can i ask your opinion of the APE ones as i can get this in the UK, but not the graves one if i could i,d buy the graves
rob
can i ask your opinion of the APE ones as i can get this in the UK, but not the graves one if i could i,d buy the graves
rob
~TABASCO~
RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Vendor
Ive seen and installed many... They work.....
IMOP, I feel the oil passage is important... Here is the Graves unit in the UK..... You can also pick the dealers that will carry the part depending on where you're located. Your local sport bike shop can probably get one easily
Graves Motorsports Yamaha R1 Frame Sliders UK
Graves Motorsports Yamaha R1 Frame Sliders - No Cut 2009-2014
www.veloxracing.com
Find a Dealer - VeloxRacing.com - FTecu Flash-tune Rotobox Graves Motorsports Europe
FTecu flashtune veloxracing dealer locator europe, germany, france, italy, USA, canada, japan, thailand, signapore, africa
www.veloxracing.com
Here is the close up of the oil passage im talking about.
Last edited:
thanks alot for the uk linkIve seen and installed many... They work.....
IMOP, I feel the oil passage is important... Here is the Graves unit in the UK..... You can also pick the dealers that will cary the part depending on where you're located. Your local sport bike shop can probably get one easily
Graves Motorsports Yamaha R1 Frame Sliders UK
Graves Motorsports Yamaha R1 Frame Sliders - No Cut 2009-2014
Find a Dealer - VeloxRacing.com - FTecu Flash-tune Rotobox Graves Motorsports Europe
FTecu flashtune veloxracing dealer locator europe, germany, france, italy, USA, canada, japan, thailand, signapore, africa
Here is the close up of the oil passage im talking about.
View attachment 65809
rob
IMO the stock CCT doesn't work off of oil pressure. I Think the oil is only there to lube the CCT.
jalal
New Member
My stock CCT makes a nasty noise when I fire it up from cold. It is a 2013 with 24K miles. I am about ready to do this since I am stuck at home anyways. A couple of easy questions from your great explanation:
1- To turn the engines, which crank/bolt do I use, is it safe to use the rear wheel in top gear ?
2- which alignment marks am I looking for ? (I see the K pointing up in your photo) ?
thanks!
Chaz
Well-Known Member
Guys stop scaring me!
Mine is a 2012 with 70 000km (58 k miles ish)I can hear it rattle for a 1/4 sec on start up...
Mine is a 2012 with 70 000km (58 k miles ish)I can hear it rattle for a 1/4 sec on start up...
Boris
Well-Known Member
Isn’t that about 44k miles? Less mileage, less worry
jalal
New Member
That noise is embarrassing when I am with other riders.
Boris
Well-Known Member
A lot of the noise from the Gen 1 bikes is from the clutch. Mine was shockingly bad, until I changed the basket to a Gen2. So much quieter now.
jalal
New Member
I have yet to tackle the clutch upgrade. Did you use the old plates/springs with the new basket ?
Boris
Well-Known Member
Only changed the basket. Even re-used the gasket and main nut. Steel and fibre plates were reused.
Doesn’t have traditional clutch springs, has a pressure plate.
For my bike, this basket change made such a significant improvement. Not just in less noise, but also much smoother, almost eliminated vibration, it’s revs up cleaner too.
Doesn’t have traditional clutch springs, has a pressure plate.
For my bike, this basket change made such a significant improvement. Not just in less noise, but also much smoother, almost eliminated vibration, it’s revs up cleaner too.
Ghost69
Member
What n how do u use to hold the chain tension when u remove the cct"slowly turn in the tensioner until you feel it snug up. I tightened it by hand as much as I could. "
Here's a tip:
Whatever manual CCT you buy, before you install it, run the tensioner in and out by hand to make sure there are no rough threads.
I installed a manual CCT and ran the tensioner in by hand till I thought it was all the way in. Turned out it was not, just a rough spot in the threads and when I released the chain it jumped timing.
Thank you
