Maintenance Items, Part Numbers, & Accessories

[EricV]

I do appreciate all the work that went into the original post. It does have a disclaimer on filter lengths, etc. And I certainly can appreciate that you only wish to post data you personally have verified. That said, in some cases the data is no longer correct, and your emphasis on members checking back for the latest info as you update sounds great, except when it's not updated. The automotive oil filters in the 2.5" length have all or nearly all been changed by the manufacturers to 3" lengths, which don't fit some skid plates. Specifically, the Purolater 14612 which used to be 2.5". Not to mention the concave Vs convex issue at the threads that have recently been discovered, which prevents many auto filters from sealing properly.

Measuring an oil filter is not rocket science. I would think that if a forum member went to the effort to measure a filter and supply that info to you in the thread, it would be useful to add it or correct the existing info to current data. The 2000 character limit just means that some trimming is necessary if you, the OP, wish to add or alter data.

Thanks for your efforts Dallara. More people than you may realize still use that page.

 

[Dallara]

~


Some changes made to the list...

First off, please remember folks that this list is only a *GUIDELINE* and general resource to hopefully assist some of you in heading the right direction to find your parts. As it states quite clearly in the original post, it is *NOT* the "be all, end all" list of part numbers, etc. It can't be, as parts and their numbers, change all the time, and I simply do not have the time (nor the inclination) to devote my life to tracking any and all part number changes for the Super Tenere, much less running out and measuring any and all possible oil filters weekly. As with just about anything in this life it is up to *YOU* to make sure you get the proper parts for your bike.

And while we're on the subject of oil filters, there is no way I can go out and test fit any and all oil filters to see if they will leak or work with your own skid plate. If such a thing deeply concerns you then there is a very quick and simple solution - *USE THE RECOMMENDED YAMAHA OEM OIL FILTER!* After all, you've just bought an expensive motorcycle (and perhaps some expensive skid plate) that is a marvel of modern engineering... Why scrimp by trying to save money by buying other oil filters? And if you buy the Yamaha filter you will be absolutely sure it will fit, even with any skid plate, and it won't leak, either.

OTOH, if you want to use another brand of filter then you are on your own. Please don't expect this list to be the bible on the subject. It's not.

Hence, there is now a new disclaimer (Thanks, Checkswrecks!!!) on the list regarding oil filters, which reads:

"SOME OIL FILTER DESIGNS CHANGED IN 2015. BOTH OLD AND NEW STYLES MAY BE IN STOCK SO IT IS IMPERATIVE TO CHECK FOR A CONCAVE MOUNT AND PROPER LENGTH."

Funny, so many claim to want less and less of these kinds of disclaimers, warning labels, "Danger, Will Robinson" tags, etc., yet so often all sorts of whining, mewling, and cries of "why don't you save me from myself" warrant such inane things.

On other list news, I added links for both BUMOT and Holan panniers. Hope they help!

Dallara



~

 

[Checkswrecks]

Sources to try for electrical connectors:


http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html


http://electricalconnection.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=20_59

http://www.cycleterminal.com/motorcycle-connectors.html

 

[Shovelhead]

Tell ya what, I've looked at this several times and it's quite a comprehensive list. No doubt took a lot of time to compile.
Just wanted to say thanks
--- I really appreciate your effort Dallara. ::003::

 

[clansmanCRO]

Hi...
I'm new here...so i have some questions..
Are all vital parts same on european and canadian version of bike? Like brake pads, throttle cables, bearings etc.
Is it possible to buy clutch and brake repair set which is not yamaha OEM?
Did anyone know dimensions or model of front wheel bearings?
I will like to buy SKF, FAG or something like that, no need for OEM

THANKS

BTW...this topic is awesome

 

[Don in Lodi]

Hi...
I'm new here...so i have some questions..
Are all vital parts same on european and canadian version of bike? Like brake pads, throttle cables, bearings etc.
Is it possible to buy clutch and brake repair set which is not yamaha OEM?
Did anyone know dimensions or model of front wheel bearings?
I will like to buy SKF, FAG or something like that, no need for OEM

THANKS

BTW...this topic is awesome

Barnett does clutch parts, so yes. EBC does brake pads, so yes. Everybody does plugs. Cables can be fab'd up, so can hoses. It's old school, but shops are out there.
A lot of manufacturers and distributors have the ability to do cross-overs. Collect your OEM #'s and see if you can find a site that will let you enter them for a cross reference.

 

[NoRush]

Really awesome effort D. Think you put most dealerships to shame. Thanks ::012::

 

[spinalator]

I looked and have not found it yet, is there a cross reference chart for Gen 1 S10 and the Gen 2 for all this stuff. I assume most still fits, but there usually are some small differences. I did some searching and skimming but have not been able to find it yet. Thanks!

 

[mebgardner]

My Thanks to Dallara and Moderators for providing, maintaining and updating this very good resource.

I've read through the "rear tire removal with pictorial", and "pumpkin removal" threads, and this entire thread.

The "pumpkin removal" thread discusses some spline lubes, some of which (Honda Moly 60) are apparently no longer available.

The other spline lubes listed in the "pumpkin removal" are exotics (ie: the Krytox) , and expensive, and then are prescribed to be mixed as an "additive" into a base lube.

Finally, the Honda M77 assembly lube is sometimes given as a replacement to the Honda Moly 60, and sometimes stated to be completely different. I cannot seem to become clear on that point.

I note the Honda Moly 60 is still listed here, so it may still be available, but most searches return with a pointer to the M77 product.

Sooooo...

May I please request a post, or a list update (which I understand has become difficult), to include all "popular", "appropriate", "available" (Low Cost?) spline lube product, for the job?

I'm of the "check it occasionally, follow the rust removal procedures if it's found, check for no leaks, and slap some appropriate goo on the interfaces.", kinda maintenance guy. I'll likely choose a goo off the shelf but not spend time searching custom goo suppliers or spend $100 per 3 oz., I'll apply it like I was told (like as I read in the threads). But am I gonna mix goo's together, looking for the 500 million mile forever cycle? No, probably not...

Having just read back, what I just wrote, I already know what the reply will be: Use the Yama spline lube goo already listed. Yup, I can do that!

But, if you can give me options, I would appreciate that too.

Thank You So Much for your help!


Edit:

I was reviewing what I'd read this morning, and then a lightbulb flashed on for me. I need to ask for something different than what I did ask for.

So, I think I remember reading that the drive line gets two different lubes: One lithium based (for the front splines, I think), and a Moly based lube for the rear splines (those inside the pumpkin, in the "oil bath").

That means I don't really need the Moly based recommendation as much as the Lithium based recommendation. With any luck, I will not have to use the Moly based goo.


Maybe put them both on the list, and indicate which is for what purpose?

 

[gv550]

I've not read all 9 pages of this thread so this may have already been discussed.
The Owners Manual for my 2016 S10 states in bold print 'Do not use (engine) oils with a diesel specification of CD or oils of a higher quality than specified.' The list includes Shell Rotella, which does have the C rating, and maybe some of the other oils do too, so perhaps they should be removed from the list?
Not to start an oil discussion, I use only Yamalube so I don't care what the list says.

 

[2daMax]

Compatible HDEO for motorcycle are rated API CI-4 or CI-4 Plus. These r for turbo diesel high revs engines and resist foaming from agitation. Shell Rotella the mineral type is also rated Jaso MA. Used oil analysis indicates good protection like any other motorcycle oil. Oil shears down within 3k km for the mineral type for Rotella so recommended to change early. Other API "C" should not be used. These HDEO n bike specific oil have something in common, they both contain high contents of barrier protection additives of Zinc n Phosporus, unlike regular passenger car oils which does not have them since API SH and above.

 

[Checkswrecks]

mebgardner - Good comments. I bought a fresh tube of Honda moly not too long ago so am pretty sure it can be found. Un fortunately, most of what is billed as containing moly has very little and people need to look for the percentage content. What I'd suggest is for anybody to feel free to add equivalents if they know of some.


gv550 - Remove Rotella? Are you trying to get me linched? Seriously, there are some good reasons for keeping it in the list for those who want it and those who don't have plenty of choices.

 

[Boris]

This is available for those in the UK http://www.draketooling.co.uk/Products/maintenance_workshop_anti-sieze/AS60

 

[mebgardner]

Boris:

At 60% Moly content, the MolySlip AS60 product appears to be a good alternative.

 

[mebgardner]

In the 1st page list, there is listed a

Final Drive Spline Lube:
- Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease - part # ACC-MOLDM-GS-10

This is probably not a good alternative to Honda Moly 60, for the drive splines within the pumpkin. The Yamalube Moly is a fine alternative for all other applications *within the final drive line components*, as every other application listed in the "big book" service manual lists "LS Grease", or Lithium Soap Grease (White Grease) as the correct grease for use.

Said a different way: The Yamalube is not a good alternative replacement for the Honda Moly 60, but it is a good alternative for drive line usage specifying LS Grease.

The Yamalube has 1-10% Moly according to it's MSDS. The Honda Moly 60 has 60% Moly.

This stuff is like an oil thread, and I'm sorry I've opened it. I'm still looking at it today, and I have in mind to correlate all the info from the last 5-10 years from the various forums, and launch it as a new thread.

So, for folks who want to offer a different opinion about this, please give me a couple days to "get it together".

The point of this message is, the Yamalube is *not* the equivalent of the Honda Moly 60, that's all.

 

[mebgardner]

mebgardner - Good comments. I bought a fresh tube of Honda moly not too long ago so am pretty sure it can be found. Un fortunately, most of what is billed as containing moly has very little and people need to look for the percentage content. What I'd suggest is for anybody to feel free to add equivalents if they know of some.

Checks: The Honda Moly 60 product is now unobtanium, anywhere. The good news is, there's plenty of good alternatives. The TS-70 Moly Paste listed, is one of them. I believe Boris has listed another. Locitite lists a couple different part numbers that also appear to be good alternatives, and I'll say more about these later.

 

[mebgardner]

I believe Loctite Moly products are suitable for rear driveline use, in any application including substitution for Lithium Soap.

Loctite Series LB8012, approx 65% Moly, 8 oz. p/n 51048, 16 oz. p/n 51049

Note within the MSDS, this product uses petroleum base oils. This is a problem I think I see with the M77 series of Moly lubes. I believe they may use silicon base oils. I don't know that yet for sure, but I suspect it's true. I'm still digging...

MSDS:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS00014/00270256-20170512.PDF

P/N 51048, 8 oz. at Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWBSJW?tag=vs-powersports-convert-amazon-20
$38. + free ship.

Note the increased costs of Moly paste products. They are increasing at a much faster rate than US inflation. I'm not saying that you should run for it, but if you need to put some on the shelf, it's not going down in price, and has not for years. There is no lack of source, it's just getting pricier.

 

[mebgardner]

Honda M77 Assembly Paste.

The interwebs information regarding this lube is a quagmire of conflicting data.

I'll write what I've learned, and you decide about whether or not to use it yourself. At this point, I've determined to go with the TS-70, or the Loctite products. Either of them are clear in their documentation.

Honda M77 assembly paste has no MSDS or product description maintained by a well known chemical distributor. Honda does not publish regarding it's content by anything other than the container.

I believe the Honda M77 is re-branded Dow Corning M77 "Molykote" Moly paste product. I can not prove this, but it's what I believe to be true because most of he interweb links, link the Honda product to the Dow product when searching.

Dow Corning does publish and maintain MSDS and product specification on Dow Corning M77 Molykote here:
http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/details.aspx?prod=01005103&type=PROD

The data point that keeps me from clearly calling the product suitable is, the Dow Molykote is a "Silicone based MoS2 paste".

That statement, from Dow, is the thing that keeps me from recommending it for our rear driveline applications.

I *do not know* if a silicone based lube is suitable, I just don't know.

The Dow product sheet does not actually specify how much Moly is in the M77 paste by percentage, but lists it as "1.95 grams / cc", which is a density (mass .vs volume) specification. Go figure.

It does state this:
"Suitable for lubrication points with low to moderate loads and low speeds which are subjected to water and extreme temperatures."

... and this:

"Used successfully on metal/metal combinations with frictional and contact surfaces, brake anchor plates and the brake pistons of disc brakes."

... and also says this about it's composition:
"Polyphenylmethyl siloxane oil, *Lithium soap*, Molybdenum disulphide".

 

[msch]

I have a 2017 European Supertenere XT1200ZE.
The following brake pads spec fits my bike?:

EBC Front Brake Pads: FA380 HH
EBC Rear Brake Pads: FA319/2 HH

 

[Checkswrecks]

I have a 2017 European Supertenere XT1200ZE.
The following brake pads spec fits my bike?:

EBC Front Brake Pads: FA380 HH
EBC Rear Brake Pads: FA319/2 HH

These are shown on the first page of this thread and are for all models.