Low speed wander

grumpybear

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Jul 14, 2015
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My 2015 ES with 81000 km has developed a low speed wander. At 30 to 50 kph {20 to 30 mph}, the bike wants to wander left or right very slightly. Nothing serious ,just a bit or unintended wander you might feel when there is a bit of wind.

I have changed the rear and front tire, changed the seals and bushing in the front forks. Tops of the forks are equal on both sides of the clamps. The wander is more pronounce at 32 frt and 36 rear pressures. Lowering the front pressure will decrease the wander but not eliminate it. Retorqued the fork clamps to spec and checked for loose front end and rear swing arms but nothing noticed or felt. Front tire wear appears even and nothing unusual shows on the treads of either tire. Panniers on or off makes no difference. Wheel bearing felt smooth.

Is this an indication of a steering head bearing issue?
 

RCinNC

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I'd go with checking the torque on the headset bearings. Mine didn't exhibit any weird symptoms, but the first time I did my headset service, I found that the steering stem nut was just a little over finger tight; it's supposed to be at 94 ft/lbs of torque. That led me to believe that it was never checked properly prior to leaving the dealership, because I doubt that a nut torqued to 94 ft/lbs would ever get that loose on its own.

Adjusting the torque on the headset bearings is easy, but you do need a special tool to grab the lower ring nut so you can set it to the proper torque. I got mine off of eBay; it looks like a letter "C". If you don't use the Yamaha tool or a close knockoff and use some sort of socket, then I believe the torque values in the service manual won't be correct and you'll have to recalculate them for the socket/torque wrench combination you're using.

If you don't have a service manual, these are the steps for adjusting the steering head bearing torque:

Initially tighten the lower ring nut to 38 ft/lbs using the steering nut wrench and torque wrench. Torque wrench should be at a right angle to the steering nut wrench.

Now loosen the lower ring nut completely, and re-tighten it to 13 ft/lbs.

Check the steering head for looseness or binding. If any is felt, remove the lower bracket and check the position of the upper and lower head bearings.

Install the rubber washer.

Install the upper ring nut.

Finger tighten the upper ring nut, then align the slots of both ring nuts. If necessary, hold the lower ring nut and tighten the upper ring nut until their slots are aligned.

Install the lock washer, bend the tabs into the slots on the ring nuts.

Install the upper bracket.

Install the steering stem nut. Tighten to 94 ft/lbs.

The tool I use that I got on eBay looks just like this one:

Steering Head Tool.jpg
 

scott123007

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There are only two issues with steering head bearings that will make the bike wander. The first one is from worn/notched bearings and the other is from the steering stem nut/s being over torqued. More than likely, your problem is worn/notched bearings, because as they age they never get tighter, unless of course, somehow , they have become rusted. More often than not, an under torqued steering stem nut/s is the cause of premature worn/notched bearings.
RC has detailed the proper torquing order, but I'm afraid your bearings need replacement first.
 
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Squibb

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but I'm afraid your bearings need replacement first.
Absolutely right. Don't be tempted to try to adjust play from worn/notched steering head bearings - it may improve feel in the straight ahead, but conversely there will likely be tight spots as you turn the steering, which can range from disconcerting to feeling downright dangerous.
 

RCinNC

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Tight spots are easy enough to detect once the steering head bearings are properly torqed. If a bearing is bad or one of the races is notched, it'll be pretty evident when the OP turns the bars from side to side. I'm a firm believer in taking maintence in steps, and I wouldn't start pulling steering heads and knocking out bearing races until I was sure it wasn't just a simple adjustment issue. If the adjustment is all it needed then the OP just saved himself a ton of work plus the cost of parts; if it's apparent that the steering is hanging up as he turns the bars through the arc, then he can proceed with the next steps. For the symptoms the OP described, I wouldn't automatically default to the worst case scenario of bad bearings/races until I confirmed it with a proper adjustment.
 

Squibb

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I hear what you say RC, but I really can't recall any bike I have ever worked on , with 50k on the clock, that didn't require new head bearings, indeed many had only 20-25k showing. Maybe conditions are different in NC.

Manufacturers are famously sparing with the grease & head bearings are no exception, unless they have been re-packed as part of the regular service regime - a rare event in my experience, even when it is in the schedule. Couple that with Alberta (NE of Edmonton) weather & I would be very surprised if the OP doesn't need to budget for a new head bearing set. Time will tell.
 

RCinNC

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Your experience is probably more vast than mine, since the only bikes I ever work on are my own, but my experience hasn't been the same as yours. My 2014 Super Ten has just over 81,000 miles on it, and I've had the steering head completely disassembled twice to inspect it, and the bearings and races are still good. I even bought a new set of bearings and races for the last inspection, and I ended up not needing them. Both times I just repacked the bearings with BelRay waterproof grease and reassembled them.

It's definitely true that I'm not riding in the same conditions as someone in the piney northlands.
 

grumpybear

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Thanks for all the information. I checked my step motor plug ins and discovered they were 180 opposite from each other and not aligned as per my shop manual instructions. I did do a test for a notch or sticky point with the front tire off the floor and everything felt smooth through the arc. I will likely proceed with pulling things apart and inspect the bearings in the future.

Thanks again, greg
 

grumpybear

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Some follow up.

I changed out my steering head bearing and after a short ride, looks like my problem is gone.

I was a bit hesitant to change the bearings after raising the front end and not finding any problems with the handle bars through the steering arc. I pulled the front wheel off, checked the steering arc again, still no problems with the arc. I then removed the forks and tried turning the handle bars through the steering arc and I discovered a catch/bump as the bars rotated past the middle of the arc.

Changed the bearings, followed torques specs in the shop manual and the steering arc feels smooth. Just back from a short test drive, the wander is gone.

Thanks for the recommendation to change the bearings.

greg
 

whisperquiet

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I have 56,000 miles on my ‘15 S10 and started to experience the low speed wandering. I could feel a slight hitch with the front wheel off the ground. So, I replaced the steering head/stem bearings today…..the new lower frame race was a major PITA to install as it would not go in straight with my bearing driver. I finally got it in, everything greased/adjusted, and the rest of the stuff reinstalled. It feels super smooth and I will take it for a ride tomorrow.
 

Kenack

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I need to do my 2015 ES because it's notchy. What should it cost to replace them at a shop? I'm not comfortable to doing it myself.

Ken
 

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Another thing to consider and over looked at the time is the rear axle. Many folks and shops will install the rear axle and then tighten the pinch bolt, then tighten the axle nut. And send you down the road. This puts undo stress on the rear swing arm and I’ve seen the rear wheel track down the road wonky.
Make sure that after the rear axle nut is TQ’ed go back and loosen the rear axle pinch bolt and even tap the swing arm with a rubber mallet. Then properly TQ the pinch bolt. 9 times out of 10 I see this issue.
This just might be part of your puzzle and something to look at and double check.

Side note: make sure the front headset bearing races are “square”. I’ve posted in the past that I have seen a slew of top races cock-eyed in the frame steer tube. It’s pretty evident when you pull the bearings. Make sure they are seated square in the frame.
 

Boris

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I need to do my 2015 ES because it's notchy. What should it cost to replace them at a shop? I'm not comfortable to doing it myself.

Ken
i recently changed the head bearings in my Gen1 bike. In the UK the parts from Yamaha were £85, about $115USD. I reckon about 3 hours Labour in a workshop with a decent mechanic.

Most of the job is pretty straightforward stuff. The only hassle is removing the lower bearing on the steering stem.
 

sandro1973

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Jan 26, 2018
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Portugal
Had the same exact issue on mine...the steering would catch slightly with the handlebars in the middle position, the bike would easily wander right or left on low speed riding, it felt like a flat tyre. Changing the steering head bushings fixed it.
 
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