Karson's Barnett clutch swap, DMM HID lights, bar risers

Karson

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

snakebitten said:
Having said all that, my favorite thing about this Barnett kit is it's cool looking. :)
Too bad you can't just sit and stair at it after it's installed.
That's why I took some pictures, so I can remember what's in there 5 years from now after I've loooong forgotten. :D

Thanks for the tip on the Morimoto. If you haven't seen or heard of any issues with the stock wiring handling the initial load of the Morimoto 3five (35W) ballasts when they're warming up, then I'll take the risk of them being big enough gauge. I read the 3five's pull ~6A at startup before setting in around 3.2A fully warm...

That was my only concern and reasoning for getting it at the time.
 

avc8130

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

Karson said:
That's why I took some pictures, so I can remember what's in there 5 years from now after I've loooong forgotten. :D

Thanks for the tip on the Morimoto. If you haven't seen or heard of any issues with the stock wiring handling the initial load of the Morimoto 3five (35W) ballasts when they're warming up, then I'll take the risk of them being big enough gauge. I read the 3five's pull ~6A at startup before setting in around 3.2A fully warm...

That was my only concern and reasoning for getting it at the time.
The stock bulbs are 55W.

P=VI?

55W = 12V *IA

Solve for I.

I = 4.5A

ac
 

Karson

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

I was erring on the very cautious side and looking closely at the 6A startup draw. How long startup is i dunno...again just being cautiously curious regarding specifically that. I knew the 55w halogens < 35w hid ;). But can you remember what the gauge of wiring is from all the cooked headlamp posts? 18 gauge? Smaller?
 

twinrider

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

Don't forget to seal around the wires going through the rubber grommets and around the grommets themselves with RTV.
 

avc8130

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

Karson said:
I was erring on the very cautious side and looking closely at the 6A startup draw. How long startup is i dunno...again just being cautiously curious regarding specifically that. I knew the 55w halogens < 35w hid ;). But can you remember what the gauge of wiring is from all the cooked headlamp posts? 18 gauge? Smaller?
I don't remember off hand.

You are exactly right, the duration f time the high startup draw lasts will determine if this will really become a problem over the long run.

I am 23k miles into it on this bike and the wiring seems ok. If it becomes a problem I will probably just run an entirely separate feed for the HIDs and abandon the failed stock wiring in place.

ac
 

Karson

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

You can see in this video that draw starts dropping pretty quickly. Of course, I'm not well versed in HID ballasts to know if this drop would be consistent if the ballast was already "warm" from prior testing and results in quicker settling period, or if it doesn't matter if its cold/warm, it'll take the same amount of time.

Morimoto 3Five Ballast Start Up.

I'm confident y'all are correct (never a doubt :) ) that that nominal 6A load for that short of run for that short of time will stretch the capacity of the OEM harness wiring.

Just saved me a lot of time and brainstorming of wire routing! ::003::
 

Karson

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

Today I had the chance to install the long lines - have not put on the 2" Rox Risers yet, but will shortly after posting this. Needed to cool down ::008::

Parts needed
1/4" ratchet
3/8" ratchet
torque wrench - i did mine in in. lbs.
razor blade
14mm wrench
17mm wrench
10mm flare nut wrench
6mm hex (i used external hex socket)
14mm socket

1) I started on the clutch side first. Remove the "holder" from the frame by using an 8mm socket. The bolt is sorta hidden, but you can see it if you look at a weird angle. Then, to give yourself more room yet, release the plastic clip holding the group of wires. Either gently pry on it with a little eyeglass screwdriver, or slide it laterally to release. Keep this bolt for the line holder included in the kit as it will require a shorter bolt (step 6)


2) Once the "holder" is removed, I cut the rubber grommet off the brake line to give my 17mm wrench more area to grab onto. It's metal underneath, so don't worry about going too deep and causing a mess (this is the line you're replacing).


3) In the picture below, I've got the 10mm flare wrench on the hard line nut that stays on the bike and goes back to the ABS motor, my fingers are around that thin 17mm nut you will need your wrench for. Pull down on the flare nut wrench and hold the 17mm open end wrench up. It doesn't take a crazy amount of effort, but be sure both wrenches are securely on their appropriate nuts. :D Place a bunch of paper towels under here because a small amount of brake fluid will run out.


4) I don't have a lot of pics of this process, but once you loosen that, the 17mm nut spins to separate the lines. Now you go up to the clutch fluid reservoir and use your 6mm allen/hex socket and take the banjo fitting off. Again, put some paper towels around here as when it comes off, fluid will start to drain (small amounts).

Make sure that both washers (inner and outer) on the OEM banjo come off with the line and you don't somehow double washer your long lines in the installation. You will want to make a mental note of the general soft line routing through the fork tubes so the new longer lines follow that same path.

5) Remove the old banjo fitting bolt with a 6mm hex. Keep a paper towel under here as well to catch the small amount of fluid that comes out of the reservoir. Below is my new clutch line hooked up. Make sure there's a copper washer on both sides of the banjo fitting, take your 14mm socket and torque down to 22 ft lbs.


6) Remove the bolt from the square bracket holding the front brake line to the frame. Again, 8mm socket like the clutch line. Keep the bolt as this will be the bolt for the clutch line holder you took off earlier.


7) Continued from step 6 - Same deal here - remove the hard line from the soft line with a 10mm flare and ??mm open end wrench. Get a paper towel under there to catch the drips. Now remove the banjo fitting from the brake reservoir with a 6mm hex and paper towels to catch the brake fluid. My new line installed below.


8) Purge air from new lines. This is the fluid I chose to use.


Simply remove the caps from the reservoirs and slowly pump the lever to let the air come up. You can shake the lines to assist in this process going faster. Just be damn sure you don't allow the reservoir to go empty or you'll have to bleed the line completely. The neat thing about this mod is that you don't have to do a full system bleed, you CAN if you want, but absolutely not necessary.

Thanks to Jaxon for his help on the phone, took almost as long to write this as it did to install the lines knowing what to expect when before I dug in. Glad I did it and love the 2" Rox Risers!

Hasta!
K
 

avc8130

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

Karson,

Glad your lines worked out so easily for you.

I did another set today on SwampyVT's bike. I didn't even bother meddling with them installed on the bike. We pulled the tank and air box and pulled the lines out of the bike. Working on a vice it was much easier to make sure nothing stripped.

Either way works, on the bike is definitely faster.

ac
 

Karson

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

Front brake feel was a teeeeny bit softer than before I started on a quick test ride yesterday. Left it sit overnight and any trace amounts of air must have found their way to the reservoir overnight. Nice and firm again.

Shooting myself for not doing this earlier, ergos are much, much improved. I must have midget arms.

 

snakebitten

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

Better late than never. :)

So now you have your risers on?

You are gonna be amazed how much nicer standing up is.
Especially since you are tall. (And have those short arms you just claimed)

But before you celebrate mission complete, are you still using that silly OEM sweep bars?
 

Karson

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

Yep I went with the standard 2" Rox, no anti-vibe. I'll have to put some miles on and see if the new angles cause any issues with the wrists. That'll be determined over the winter.

You running the flexx or protapers on yours?

I've still gotta do my airbox mods, headlights, and new dash. Then I'm done (yeah, right...)
 

snakebitten

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

I have the flex. But it wouldn't matter which bar you switch to as long as you mount some with more traditional Dirt bike geometry.

It is better on road, but WAY better when conquering those standup challenges. (Solo, obviously)

I find this bike to be amazing while standing now. It just works. So natural.
 

ridefire

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

Bump ! Hey Karson how did you resecure the lines to the neck of the bike , did you use the stock clamps ? how did you secure the throttle cables on the clutch side , thanks, this thread helped a ton !
 

Karson

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Time for some fun...pics inside

No problem. The lines are the hydraulic clutch and brake rubber line replacements, nothing throttle related. They simply make your rox risers safe(r).

As far as mounting them I used the OEM locations on both sides as they bolt right up when you're done. The only reason you unbolt any clamps is simply so you can get a wrench on the connections securely.

I think the kit comes with a longer bolt for the brake side clamp down underneath by the right fork.
 

ridefire

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

I installed the new lines before my first post , I confused myself when I went to secure lines to the neck because I think I reversed the lines , one of the new long lines has a new connector on it to re attach the line to the neck , I put it clutch side when I think it should have gone brake side , the install went smooth other than THINK I I DID THE LINES BACKWARDS ! totally makes sense to me know, the new line with the clip replaces the brake line in place of the metal square ends oem line .! Im going to have to do it all over again , THAT SUCKS! oh well at least I'm well practiced now . thanks again
 

lacofdfireman

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

Thanks for the Pictorial. I gotta get this done on my bike and have been a little reserved on doing it. I've never had to bleed lines before. But I like to learn and this thread will help out a lot...
 

greg the pole

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

I'd like to contribute to this thread by pointing out that

Karson, At 6'3", must have midget arms. This is politically incorrect. ::005::

They are T-rex arms! I have the same issue. Hence my 3.5" Rox risers, and I'm only 5'9"
 

AndyCBR

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

Thanks Karson for the clutch writeup. It was a nice visual reference while doing the job.

A few general questions;

What is the purpose of the offset of the last 2 plates versus the dimple? Balance, Alignment? Why 4 or 5 spaces as long as the last two are offset from each other? It was my understanding the notches in the friction plates were remnants of the manufacturing jig only.

Also, the basket has 2 dimples (circular) and 2 triangles. I wonder what the triangles are for? I can only assume some type of balancing of the assembly takes place during manufacture.

I assume the position of the notch in the clutch plate versus the dimple in the basket for all other clutch plates is irrelevant?

BTW I got my moneys worth out of this clutch pack!



 

~TABASCO~

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

The clutch is designed with 'anti-chatter'... the first 2/4 plates to go in are also different from the rest... when your in there don't forget to replace the circular spring... also, I would suggest the push rod that pushed against the throw out bearing be replaced along with the ball behind it and the rubber O-ring that rides on the shaft..... these few parts about $20, replace them... :)
 

AndyCBR

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Re: Time for some fun...pics inside

~TABASCO~ said:
The clutch is designed with 'anti-chatter'... the first 2/4 plates to go in are also different from the rest... when your in there don't forget to replace the circular spring... also, I would suggest the push rod that pushed against the throw out bearing be replaced along with the ball behind it and the rubber O-ring that rides on the shaft..... these few parts about $20, replace them... :)
Actually I think only the first friction plate (from the outside) is different from the next 7. And then the one as part of the cushion assembly has its own part number.

Still curious as to what the indexing of the plates versus the circular mark on basket does or doesn't do with regards to the last two.

As far as the spring goes I am replacing that assembly entirely with the Barnett setup I purchased from you over a year or so ago. The short push rod, ball, and o ring are being replaced also along with the big needle bearing. There was a little wear on the clutch boss but unfortunately that part is on backorder with Yamaha until late June so the old one will have to do.

I wouldn't say I "abused" the clutch but hard off road riding while fully loaded requires a lot of time in the friction zone and I think the increased pressure with the Barnett black springs will let the clutch engage quick when I let go of the lever.

The clutch in the state shown in the pictures still engaged well and didn't slip uncontrollably under full load for the rest of the trip. I think it just got really hot and the frictions glazed and then it slipped more than it should have and led to the excessive heat in the motor.

To be fair the bike has been over the Alpine loop fully loaded 2 times and Lockhart basin finally did it in as the bike itself was actually overheating due to the heat and slip.
 
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