IS ABS Module is a weak spot of this bike

Black_Magic

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Checkswrecks

Ungenear to broked stuff
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So you can get smaller "Duckbill valves" ...

Human breast milk pumps: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYNFVDS?tag=duckduckgo-brave-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1
Chainsaw parts: https://www.ebay.com/b/Homelite-Duckbill/85915/bn_7023360557
Tractor/earthmoving equipment/truck air filters (Usually 1 1/2" / 40mm kind of size though)

Now to carry on looking for why my ABS light may be on and the rear brake pedal goes to the bottom doing no braking.
Almost deleted this as spam. Had to look a couple of posts above at Nikoajsen's post to understand why it's here.
 

Jdandy

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Has anyone out there removed the pump from the ECM in an attempt to clean the valves and valve body? It appears that there're 4 torx bolts holding the two parts together. I contacted a service in Spain about refurbishment but was informed the ECM is sealed. My unit functions intermittently leading me to believe I have some moisture or corrosion in the pump body or valves. There is nothing to loose here it either works or I order a new part.
 

Checkswrecks

Ungenear to broked stuff
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Are you an adjuster or appraiser checkswrecks?
I've worked with a lot of both but am neither.
Semi-retired major aircraft accident investigator who started as a kid in a Suzuki Norton Triumph shop. Currently do a lot of EV and car work, mostly training firefighters how to put them out when burning.
 

Jdandy

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Quite interesting. I have attended many controlled burns as an insurance adjuster. Worked both with C&O as well as accident scene reconstructions. Was in that line of work for 35 years as well as a logistics officer USAR. Retired USAR 2014 had enough of insurance claims 2019.
 

2daMax

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I have seen videos of a mechanic running in some solvent/cleaner through the ABS valve body. Not sure what clear fluid it was. The mechanic doesn't want to reveal what it is but says 7 out of 10 Tenere's he's attempted to fix is successful. From the internet, some use denatured alcohol aka ethanol and compressed air to frees up sticky valve. These were ABS for a BMW M5.

Researching further on why the valves gets stuck or sticky, I came upon pictures of copper plated valves; where this would be abnormal. The valves are not copper plated but probably just stainless steel. With the plating, the diameters gets larger and is probably the cause of sticky valves. I also read that the copper comes from corroded brake lines that released Copper ions that are normally neutralized by good brake fluids. Once it reaches 200ppm of copper, there is a need to change the fluids, else the corrosion will accelerate. Now these free ions, when are not neutralized, goes onto any metal parts within the lines and starts plating them, with the presence of moisture (electrolysis).

I read about how to remove Copper plating and 1 part Hydrogen Peroxide mixed with 2 part of white vinegar could strip the plating. So if this is the method to use, it's best to just soak the Valve block passages only. Not been done on ABS valve block that I know of, so there is some element of risk what this solution could do.

My situation is a hard rear brake pedal, sometimes it recovers with full ABS function, normally after a 20mins ride (but requires to off and on back the bike and then do not use the rear until the front brakes are pulled quite hard a few times). Probably when the temperatures heats up, the UBS valve frees up. So far, I have done about 10X cycling with bleeding. Every 3 pedal pushes to bleed, 1X cycling. No joy, still sticks on the rear. A hard push on the pedal helps to gain back rear braking but not the UBS/ABS functionality. I will try another few rounds of bleed and cycling, and probably loosen a little of the zerk fittings to allow bleed while the pump cycles. (as long as there is some rear brake hydraulic pressure, the cycling can run).
 

Carlo

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I've just owned S10 for 3 months, my first service 600 mile I met another S10 Owner his bike is in service too, need to replace the ABS module, his was 2013 and only 12000m on ODO. He has to pay around 1800 USD for this ABS module, and just recently another bike from my local group; say that he has to change abs module, there was a brake fluid leaked under the rear fender. The dealer told him that is was leaked from the ABS module. I thought S10 was a bullet proof.
Sadly, you were wrong: SuperTen isn't a bullet proof. And you're right: ABS is its Achilles' heel. Mine failed and underwent reparation for that, too. Almost all and every SuperTen suffers catastrophic ABS module failure.
 

RCinNC

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I guess I qualify. I have 95,000 on my 2014. I flush the brake fluid every two years, and occasionally I'll trigger the ABS on my gravel driveway. And I make sure the drain holes in the module compartment aren't clogged. That's about it. And my ABS works fine.

That, of course, proves nothing about the actual reliability of the ABS module. But I do suspect that if you polled just the actively contributing members of this forum, you'd have a really difficult time reaching the conclusion that "Almost all and every SuperTen suffers catastrophic ABS module failure", even in that very, very limited sampling of overall Super Tenere ownership. Even if half of them had failures. which I sincerely doubt, that's still a far cry from "almost all and every".
 

audiowize

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I would be interested in knowing if there is anybody who has serviced their brake fluid every two years and had the ABS block fail.
 

2daMax

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After 27X of cycling the ABS while bleeding the rear (spread out in 3 occasions), i did not encounter the rear hard pedal early in the ride which has plagued me recently. There is light at the end of the tunnel. Will bleed and cycle a few more times just remove as much as the corrosion on the valve stems. From now on, it would be yearly brake fluid and clutch fluid bleeds.
 

Longdog Cymru

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Sadly, you were wrong: SuperTen isn't a bullet proof. And you're right: ABS is its Achilles' heel. Mine failed and underwent reparation for that, too. Almost all and every SuperTen suffers catastrophic ABS module failure.
You need to retract that statement, because it is totally untrue. You have no proof whatsoever.
If you do not service the ABS pump as per service schedule, then, as brake fluid is hygroscopic, there is a possibility that there could be corrosion in the system that could lead to the ABS module failing. The same is true of any ABS system fitted to almost every bike out there, I think you will find that they are all either made by Bosch or made under licence from Bosch.
So, if your ABS module fails because you have not had it serviced correctly, then don’t blame Yamaha.
 

Specialtom

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I am now experiencing the pain of abs module issues.

I am not getting a hard pedal, but a pedal that will go all the way down to the stop without much resistance and even when all the way down only very gently applying any braking force.

Keen not to spend a fortune fixing it as the bike came to me in a poor state and financially it would be a bad decision to go above a few hundred. Any tips for those that have repaired this themselves? Is it possible to dismantle the module and remove individual valves for inspection/repair?
 

bimota

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I am now experiencing the pain of abs module issues.

I am not getting a hard pedal, but a pedal that will go all the way down to the stop without much resistance and even when all the way down only very gently applying any braking force.

Keen not to spend a fortune fixing it as the bike came to me in a poor state and financially it would be a bad decision to go above a few hundred. Any tips for those that have repaired this themselves? Is it possible to dismantle the module and remove individual valves for inspection/repair?
you can by pass the rear brake part on the pump so you have a good rear brake without abs, here you are page 2.

rob
 
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scott123007

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I'll throw my 2 cents in here for what it's worth...
I had a '12 model with 60,000 miles on it before I sold it. Went pretty much everywhere with it off road. I think it was Limey, back when we had the Tenere meet in Ouray, that was the first to experience ABS failure when his rear brake kept going soft. I not sure if that is when I remember hearing about the plastic tray that houses the ABS unit filling with water, but it was sometime around that time. All I know is I immediately drilled the bottom weep hole/s (don't remember if there was only one, but made two) to around 5/16". Back then I only had around 3000 miles on it. Of course, during its lifetime, the ABS was cycled constantly, because of all the off-roading. I may have bled the brakes once in the six years that I had it, and only by putting new fluid in the front master container and bleeding it through both front calipers. (same way with the rear} I NEVER cycled the ABS when bleeding. My '14 now has 40,000 miles on it, is nine years old, has the same holes drilled in the tray, and has had the brakes bled exactly twice. Same way as with the '12. All of this is to say that these ABS failures may be more about water ingression in the tray, or not cycling the ABS regularly, than not changing the brake fluid enough, because I have never had an issue with ABS failure. (yet, lol) As usual, YMMV.
 

bimota

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I'll throw my 2 cents in here for what it's worth...
I had a '12 model with 60,000 miles on it before I sold it. Went pretty much everywhere with it off road. I think it was Limey, back when we had the Tenere meet in Ouray, that was the first to experience ABS failure when his rear brake kept going soft. I not sure if that is when I remember hearing about the plastic tray that houses the ABS unit filling with water, but it was sometime around that time. All I know is I immediately drilled the bottom weep hole/s (don't remember if there was only one, but made two) to around 5/16". Back then I only had around 3000 miles on it. Of course, during its lifetime, the ABS was cycled constantly, because of all the off-roading. I may have bled the brakes once in the six years that I had it, and only by putting new fluid in the front master container and bleeding it through both front calipers. (same way with the rear} I NEVER cycled the ABS when bleeding. My '14 now has 40,000 miles on it, is nine years old, has the same holes drilled in the tray, and has had the brakes bled exactly twice. Same way as with the '12. All of this is to say that these ABS failures may be more about water ingression in the tray, or not cycling the ABS regularly, than not changing the brake fluid enough, because I have never had an issue with ABS failure. (yet, lol) As usual, YMMV.
scott,

can i ask you say you cycled the abs regular but not bleed the brakes that much did you then just pull the bike up on the stand and run the cycle procedure without brake fluid change can you do that, or to cycle the abs pump you have to do a fluid change

rob
 
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