Inexpensive light bar and relay wired to high beam switch

[Mak10]

I’ve been wanting to add a auxiliary spot led to mount under my headlights. It had to be slim enough so as to not interfere with my front fender on full compression. Also I wanted it to turn on/off with my high beams. It turned out really well.

Parts list of what I used:

Nilight spot led bar part#40001s-b

Harbor feight roadshock led relay/lightbar harness

Wire tap/connector to tap into pink high beam wire to trigger relay.

 

[Mak10]

I used the HF harness for ease and simplicity. You could wire up your own relay. It was inexpensive and I used the waterproof connectors from the harness. It is way longer than needed and I cut/soldered to a more manageable length to fit the bike.

Cut appropriate connector and solder to led light pigtail. I used heat shrink tubing on all solder joints.

This particular led light had a high and low mount bracket. If you use both it puts the mount spacing right at the bolt hole spacing on the Tenere. Longer bolts are required on the light.

 

[Mak10]

Cut the switch off the harness. Leave enough wire on the switch lead to go up to the high beam trigger wire.

Remove lower and upper side covers.

The blue wire is the trigger wire on this harness. That’s the one you want to connect to the pink wire on the factory harness.

The white wire is live, so tape/cover appropriately. I wired this directly to the battery. In the future it will go to a fuse block. The pink trigger wire only has power when the high beam shutter is activated. See picture for location of pink wire.

My bike is a 16 model year. I’m not sure if other years are the same. You can test this with a 12v test light.

 

[Mak10]

Run wire harness, appropriately for a clean install, select proper fuse for light rating, mount light.

I kept the plastic deflector on the bike behind the light. If you do this you will need longer bolts and spacers.


I don’t know how long this light will last. The wiring is the hardest part and in the future another light can easily be fitted. Under $60.

 

[Mak10]

Before

 

[Mak10]

After

 

[ballisticexchris]

That is really nice and a good price!! It looks tucked up and out of the way. LED technology has come a long way. The price you got it for can't be beat.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Nicely done! I've been running a set of auxiliary LEDs with Skene dimmer for years on both the Tenere and FJR. Makes quite a difference on those early morning / late night rides.

~G

 

[holligl]

Cut the switch off the harness. Leave enough wire on the switch lead to go up to the high beam trigger wire.

Remove lower and upper side covers.

The blue wire is the trigger wire on this harness. That’s the one you want to connect to the pink wire on the factory harness.

The white wire is live, so tape/cover appropriately. I wired this directly to the battery. In the future it will go to a fuse block. The pink trigger wire only has power when the high beam shutter is activated. See picture for location of pink wire.

My bike is a 16 model year. I’m not sure if other years are the same. You can test this with a 12v test light. View attachment 74645View attachment 74646

Nice writeup, thanks. The PO on my bike put a 6" light bar on, with a switch on the dash. Would be nice to get it wired with the high beams. Maybe a rainy day project to add a relay.

BTW, You missing a screw on the wind deflector?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[EricV]

I used the HF harness for ease and simplicity. You could wire up your own relay. It was inexpensive and I used the waterproof connectors from the harness. It is way longer than needed and I cut/soldered to a more manageable length to fit the bike.

Cut appropriate connector and solder to led light pigtail. I used heat shrink tubing on all solder joints.

This particular led light had a high and low mount bracket. If you use both it puts the mount spacing right at the bolt hole spacing on the Tenere. Longer bolts are required on the light. View attachment 74643View attachment 74644

Nice write up Mark. Are you just using the longer rear mounts to bolt the light to the bike? And the short ones are essentially spacers? It appears that they fit nicely against the bottom of the headlight area too.

 

[Mak10]

The longer mounts bolt to the bike. I just used the short mounts as a spacer. One could use washers or something else. It’s about 3/16 to narrow to line up exactly.

 

[Mak10]

BTW, You missing a screw on the wind deflector?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I cheated and used a photo from another member. I didn’t take a picture when I had mine apart. Taking that screw out would make it easier to get the screw out right there on the upper fairing.

 

[Johnwesley]

Based on your other posts I went looking for that light and found this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072QBGQM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

which is the same light with relay kit. Yesterday, when I ordered it, it was on sale for 34.99. Now it’s back up to 39.99

im really glad you posted this up. It does have great reviews

 

[JJTJ2]

Based on your other posts I went looking for that light and found this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072QBGQM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

which is the same light with relay kit. Yesterday, when I ordered it, it was on sale for 34.99. Now it’s back up to 39.99

im really glad you posted this up. It does have great reviews

This is the light that I have. I wired it to be on all the time. Since it is a 30w light it will only draw 2.5 amps. So I didn't use a relay.

 

[ballisticexchris]

Could you do me a favor and measure from top of fender in line with fork to bottom of light.

Baja Design’s quit selling that style in the Super Tenere specific category. I took measurements and confirmed the bottom of light goes through fender locks up front wheel before the fork reaches full travel.

I called Baja Designs Techs and they also say their light bars cannot be installed safely where yours is.

 

[Johnwesley]

I haven’t in stalled mine but it should fit with 1/2” or so to spare. I’ll measure for sure when it gets in

 

[Mak10]

It’s right at 8”

 

[Mak10]

I’m a big fan of Baja design lights. I couldn’t find one sized to fit this application.

 

[ballisticexchris]

I’m a big fan of Baja design lights. I couldn’t find one sized to fit this application.

Me either. I ended up getting a pair of Squadrons for mine. I have the amber caps and use them for daylight running. I'm not into the night riding unless forced or doing an Iron Butt.