How to remove flex in handlebars, 2014 and later models - FIXED!

[taskmaster86]

Update: If you are only interested in learning how to remove all of the flex from your handlebar mounts, please see reply#6 below.

I have a 2014 S-10 and was wondering if anyone has ever removed the rubber handlebar mount washer/damper things? The 2013 and older models have solid machined handlebar mounts so those models won't have this problem.

I never liked how much deflection (flex) or wiggle room the handlebar had on its mounts and with the addition of the 2" Rox pivot risers, it seems really bad. I can grab the handlebars and flex the whole thing up and down nearly almost an inch. I hope you can understand what I am saying here, I may take a video of this later to help show what I mean.

I know Yamaha added these rubber dampers to lessen the vibration felt through the bars but I just do not like be able to flex my handlebars this much. It looks like you could remove the rubber dampers, replace them with a washer or two and then have a very solid connection between the handlebar mounts and the upper fork clamp plate. This should remove any and all deflection in the handlebar but may increase felt vibration a little bit.

I wanted to ask around here before I went and tried it. Thanks for your input.

 

[scott123007]

Re: Remove rubber handlebar mount dampers, 2014 and later models?

You don't have to remove the dampers. Just add a washer on the top and bottom of each mount that the hole in the washer is big enough to accommodate the "inner race" of the damper and it will make the mount solid.

 

[taskmaster86]

Re: Remove rubber handlebar mount dampers, 2014 and later models?

I am having some trouble picturing what you are saying. So I should put a washer on both sides of the rubber damper and then re-torque the nut?

 

[Defekticon]

Re: Remove rubber handlebar mount dampers, 2014 and later models?

I have a 2014 S-10 and was wondering if anyone has ever removed the rubber handlebar mount washer/damper things? The 2013 and older models have solid machined handlebar mounts so those models won't have this problem.

I never liked how much deflection or wiggle room the handlebar had on its mounts and with the addition of the 2" Rox pivot risers, it seems really bad. I can grab the handlebars and flex the whole thing up and down nearly almost an inch. I hope you can understand what I am saying here, I may take a video of this later to help show what I mean.

I know Yamaha added these rubber dampers to lessen the vibration felt through the bars but I just do not like be able to flex my handlebars this much. It looks like you could remove the rubber dampers, replace them with a washer or two and then have a very solid connection between the handlebar mounts and the upper fork clamp plate. This should remove any and all deflection in the handlebar but may increase felt vibration a little bit.

I wanted to ask around here before I went and tried it. Thanks for your input.

Remove Rox risers, install high bend bars. Best decision I ever made was to get the Protaper Evo ADV High bend bars and get rid of the rox risers. Removed all the deflection, put the bars in the same position as with the rox risers.

 

[spam16v]

Re: Remove rubber handlebar mount dampers, 2014 and later models?

I changed mine after I baked them powder coating them. My fault, thought about making solid mounts but didn't. X2 on the Rox nonsense... They're a liability if you ask me.

 

[taskmaster86]

Re: Remove rubber handlebar mount dampers, 2014 and later models?

You don't have to remove the dampers. Just add a washer on the top and bottom of each mount that the hole in the washer is big enough to accommodate the "inner race" of the damper and it will make the mount solid.

After studying the handlebar mounts a little more today, it looks like the movement comes from a gap between the upper fork clamp and the bottoms of the handlebar mounts. This small gap allows the handlebar mounts to "float" a little and be isolated from vibration. I think If I un-bolt the handlebar mounts, add a washer that fills the gap and then put everything back together, that should make the handlebars solid again.

Different handlebars are a way to go also but changing handlebars is more work than I was interested in. There is nothing wrong with the ROX risers, they just add leverage to the handlebars, which in turn allows them to flex a little bit more in their floating, "vibration isolated" mounting system. That is the cause for the flex or deflection that myself and others have noted with the risers. The 2013 and older models won't have this issue because they use a solid handlebar mount that is machined into the upper fork clamp.

 

[taskmaster86]

Re: Remove rubber handlebar mount dampers, 2014 and later models - FIXED!

Ok so I found the solution to the flexing handlebars. This fix is very inexpensive and simple. It can be done even if you have totally stock handlebars but will make the most noticeable difference if you have bar risers or a taller aftermarket handlebar. This little fix will only apply to 2014 and later model Super Teneres. I did not notice any increase in felt vibrations in the handlebars. Your bike will feel much more solid and planted at highway speeds because the handlebars no longer flex in the wind when you are cruising at high speed (usually 70 mph or higher).

Go to your local hardware store and buy (2) 5/8" steel washers. Unbolt the 2 nuts that secure the handlebar mounts using a 14mm wrench or socket. A ratcheting wrench makes this job a lot easier. The nuts are located under your upper fork triple tree clamps.

Now place the washers over the handlebar mount bushings. Re-install the handlebar clamps and securely tighten the nuts under the triple tree. You are done, enjoy your totally solid handlebars, no more flexing or wiggle!



A few tips and notes-

1. You do not need to remove the handlebar itself from the clamps. You are only removing the handlebar clamp MOUNTS. You can lift the entire handlebar assembly and it's clamps off of the upper triple tree once you unbolt the 2 nuts under the tree, as shown in the pic above.

2. You do not need to use loctite on the 2 nuts under the upper triple tree. The nuts are "prevailing torque" style lock nuts and will lock themselves in place when they are tightened. Yamaha has very cleverly used this style of lock nut in several places on the S-10. If you lose or damage the factory nuts, I would use Ny-lock style nuts or at very least regular nuts with blue, medium strength loctite on them.

3. The washers will stick out slightly around the base of the handlebar mounts but it is hardly noticeable. The 5/8" washers can be zinc plated, stainless steel or galvanized. You could also paint or powder coat the washers any color you like if it will match the rest of the bike better.

I hope this helps, enjoy!

 

[AZ Dean]

Now that some folks have implemented this, how do you like the change? Does it really add much vibration? I personally think I would like less flex and a little more vibration, but would like to hear some first hand feedback.

 

[taskmaster86]

It removes most of the wiggle in the bars but not all. It does not add any extra felt vibration because the handlebars are still going through the rubber bushings. I would say go for it either way.

The more I study it and think about it. I do not like the design of the gen 2 upper triple clamp and handlebars. The gen 1 was a simpler, stronger design that may give a little more felt vibration but has much less parts and room for wiggle/wobble. This is especially true on the highway when the wind speeds are so strong. The gen 1 design is totally solid where as the gen 2 designs allows the handlebars to flex and wiggle in all of the crosswinds.

 

[dmulk]

I wanted to post an update to this thread.

First: thank you to the OP. Really appreciate this simple solution.

Added Rox risers and love the easy upgrade, however the increased leverage definitely creates a problem with the newer rubber based mounts.

Happy to report that this definitely helps. It doesn't remove all flex but I'd say it removes about 90%. Definitely worth the $2.00 and time hunting them down at Lowe's.

Cheers,

<D>

 

[Sierra1]

My handlebars are flexing?? ???

 

[RonH]

My handlebars are flexing?? ???

Only an issue with risers or other attempts to raise the bars.. Leave off the risers, the factory bar mount works perfectly fine rubber mounted.

 

[Sierra1]

Only an issue with risers or other attempts to raise the bars.. Leave off the risers, the factory bar mount works perfectly fine rubber mounted.

Cool. Still stock. Even tried to make them flex....nothing. Having long-ass monkey arms is sometimes an advantage. ::012::

 

[ace50]

Wow, there is one thing better on the gen1 vs the gen2!?
I know when I added 3.5" height to my bars, they were still solid as before! ::26::

 

[Defekticon]

Only an issue with risers or other attempts to raise the bars.. Leave off the risers, the factory bar mount works perfectly fine rubber mounted.

Yeah Chumps. Grow longer arms

I'm going to give this a shot. My Protaper adv high bars do put some leverage into the rubber mounts.

 

[taskmaster86]

Yeah Chumps. Grow longer arms

I'm going to give this a shot. My Protaper adv high bars do put some leverage into the rubber mounts.

Having arms proportionate to the rest of my body and lifting weights for the last 20 years allows me to apply more leverage and flex to the bars. Having long, skinny, noodle arms masks this problem.

The rubber mounting system was a good idea..... in theory, not in actuality. In trying to reduce some felt vibration in the bars, Yamaha created a solution with side effects greater than the initial problem..... ::010::

The bushings should have been made out of Delrin or something harder than soft rubber. Or at very least Yamaha could have made the bushings easily replaceable.

Another alternative fix to this would be to just weld the handlebar clamps directly to the upper triple tree. Then there won't be any flex.

 

[myzter.red]

Its okay, i saw from your photo, need a little zoom.. Left side is the washer seated on the busher.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[myzter.red]

Thanks @taskmaster86 for sharing this. I tried and it resolve the issue im having with the flexy handle. Hahaha.

Here is mine,

 

[fac191]

I had a look at this but couldnt move the nuts to unbolt them, its very tight in there. Any tips ?

 

[Checkswrecks]

It should also prevent other keys on the key ring from getting pinched in the gap.