Karl
Active Member
That is totally fine.
How easily should the front wheel spin?
- Thread starter MFP
- Start date
Nikolajsen
"Keep it simple"
I sounds like your brake is a little tight on the brakedisc.
Could only be because of a little rust, if it have been standing...
But could also be the pistons that need som maintenence, and grease on the pins
like chris wrote.
I also do that, but of course NOT on brake pads and brakedisc.
But, go for a drive, and check again....it is not a lot..
Could only be because of a little rust, if it have been standing...
But could also be the pistons that need som maintenence, and grease on the pins
like chris wrote.I also do that, but of course NOT on brake pads and brakedisc.
But, go for a drive, and check again....it is not a lot..
s.ga.rider
Well-Known Member
Looks fine to me. This thread became pretty entertaining. lol
Boris
Well-Known Member
I sounds like your brake is a little tight on the brakedisc.
Could only be because of a little rust, if it have been standing...
But could also be the pistons that need som maintenence, and grease on the pins
I also do that, but of course NOT on brake pads and brakedisc.
But, go for a drive, and check again....it is not a lot..
The metal scratchy sound is throwing me off. I guess I need to do a caliper clean up and grease job.
Can anyone recommend a good how-to vid? The ones I am pulling up are not the best.
2talltoo
Well-Known Member
Where is Eric V. at a time like this?
He will pop in on this thread, he is probably out riding all weekend.
Boris
Well-Known Member
OP - this video is good and the bloke is quite thorough. Not a Super Tenere, but the principle is the same.
I’m fully aware that we all have preferred maintenance and cleaning methods, but this does cover all you need.
I’m fully aware that we all have preferred maintenance and cleaning methods, but this does cover all you need.
Boris
Well-Known Member
Basic principle,
Fresh can of brake cleaner, soft tooth brush, some soft rag, a few cotton buds (Q- Tips?), paper towels.
Remove calipers, one at a time only, from the fork leg.
Remove tiny R clips from each end of the centre retaining pin, put them somewhere safe.
Note how the spring plate sits and pull the pin out, you may have to push through a tad from one end.
The spring plate will now fall away, releasing the pads, be ready to catch them.
Hold caliper, with rag or paper towel covering one side (to catch excess spray)
Spray the whole inside of the caliper with the brake cleaner, using buds/toothbrush/rags to clean/wipe off dirt and/dust, including around the pistons.
Gently pull brake lever to expose a bit more of each piston and clean again. You may have to hold a piston or two if you have a lazy piston, thus forcing it to move first. NOTE - be VERY careful not to pop a piston fully out.
Clean the centre pin and spring plate with brake cleaner. Rub the centre pin down a little, with some fine sandpaper.
Reinstall the pads, spring plate, centre pin and R Clips, put a suitable implement between the pads and push the pistons back ( I use a small spanner, usually a 6 or 7mm) and reattach the caliper to the fork leg, 40NMs.
Pump brake to get pressure back, 3 or 4 pumps should be all it takes.
Repeat on other caliper.
Fresh can of brake cleaner, soft tooth brush, some soft rag, a few cotton buds (Q- Tips?), paper towels.
Remove calipers, one at a time only, from the fork leg.
Remove tiny R clips from each end of the centre retaining pin, put them somewhere safe.
Note how the spring plate sits and pull the pin out, you may have to push through a tad from one end.
The spring plate will now fall away, releasing the pads, be ready to catch them.
Hold caliper, with rag or paper towel covering one side (to catch excess spray)
Spray the whole inside of the caliper with the brake cleaner, using buds/toothbrush/rags to clean/wipe off dirt and/dust, including around the pistons.
Gently pull brake lever to expose a bit more of each piston and clean again. You may have to hold a piston or two if you have a lazy piston, thus forcing it to move first. NOTE - be VERY careful not to pop a piston fully out.
Clean the centre pin and spring plate with brake cleaner. Rub the centre pin down a little, with some fine sandpaper.
Reinstall the pads, spring plate, centre pin and R Clips, put a suitable implement between the pads and push the pistons back ( I use a small spanner, usually a 6 or 7mm) and reattach the caliper to the fork leg, 40NMs.
Pump brake to get pressure back, 3 or 4 pumps should be all it takes.
Repeat on other caliper.
Highwayman
Well-Known Member
Another "shes fine"
Cycledude
Well-Known Member
Looks pretty normal to me.
B
ballisticexchris
Guest
I just went out and spun mine. Very light brake drag but not as much as MFP.
I agree with (all) what Ballistic said.
I did my brakes maintenance this winter (including brake fluid which i saw no one had mentioned... when was that changed ?)
I found out (and the bike had 19K Km, 5 years for the records) that the caliper pistons were far from moving freely. two of them were almost stuck and working very bad ...they were not coming back
...i did something like what Boris described two posts above (including lubing and rotating the pistons in the way) AND i changed brake fluid.
That changed the pistons and the brake lever from night to day ....and i can confirm the front wheel (almost) free spins without any dragging
I did my brakes maintenance this winter (including brake fluid which i saw no one had mentioned... when was that changed ?)
I found out (and the bike had 19K Km, 5 years for the records) that the caliper pistons were far from moving freely. two of them were almost stuck and working very bad ...they were not coming back
...i did something like what Boris described two posts above (including lubing and rotating the pistons in the way) AND i changed brake fluid.
That changed the pistons and the brake lever from night to day ....and i can confirm the front wheel (almost) free spins without any dragging
This weekend I will do as the both of you suggested.
Chris, when you mention grease the pins are you referring to the caliper pistons or the actual pin?
Which brake cleaner do you both recommend?
With chlorine or without chlorine?
Are the piston seals & gaskets okay with contact to brake cleaner?
Thanks in advance.
EricV
Riding, farkling, riding...
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You guys have been doing fine w/o me. I'm so proud.
I prefer non-chlorine brake cleaner and yes they are fine with the seals and gaskets. You want lots of ventilation when using brake cleaner. This stuff is powerful and toxic. Any brand will do from the local auto store. Pick up some brake caliper grease there too.
You don't grease the caliper pistons. Chris is referring to the pins that the pads slide on. (On auto floating calipers you grease the pins that the caliper slides on that have a rubber boot over them.) It's also common practice to put grease on the back of the pads, usually just where they contact the pistons or caliper. You don't need to coat the entire back of the pad, only where contact occurs. If so equipped, some grease between the anti-rattle shims and pads as well. You will see marks on the back of the pads from contact on used pads. This reduces squeaks and rattles.
It's important to understand that there is a specific type of grease to use for brakes. It's a high temp grease made for this application. I prefer synthetic, but like any oil thread, tastes vary. A little goes a long way. I've been using this for decades - Sta-Lube synthetic brake grease.
Like Chris mentioned, I lightly lube the axles with normal grease to prevent corrosion. I have seen corrosion on axles, even living in the desert on bikes that no one gave any attention to and especially that didn't get the wheels pulled very often, (like years apart).
I don't think your brake drag is significant, but some maintenance is never a bad thing. Boris outlined an excellent and thorough method. The only difference in my process is that I use a special pair of pliers that spreads things and a flat aluminum bar to spread/ push the pistons back in. I have many times seen a ring of crud around the base of the pistons. And I've seen a ring of corrosion on bikes that never got the brake fluid changed in several years too.
The single biggest mistake I've seen people do when cleaning brake calipers is to use a wire brush on the pistons and damage the surface finish. Stick with the toothbrush. If you need some help on stubborn crud and the brake cleaner isn't helping, use brake fluid to soak the area a bit, then go after it again with the toothbrush.
My crusty old tube of synthetic brake grease.
I'm so proud. I prefer non-chlorine brake cleaner and yes they are fine with the seals and gaskets. You want lots of ventilation when using brake cleaner. This stuff is powerful and toxic. Any brand will do from the local auto store. Pick up some brake caliper grease there too.
You don't grease the caliper pistons. Chris is referring to the pins that the pads slide on. (On auto floating calipers you grease the pins that the caliper slides on that have a rubber boot over them.) It's also common practice to put grease on the back of the pads, usually just where they contact the pistons or caliper. You don't need to coat the entire back of the pad, only where contact occurs. If so equipped, some grease between the anti-rattle shims and pads as well. You will see marks on the back of the pads from contact on used pads. This reduces squeaks and rattles.
It's important to understand that there is a specific type of grease to use for brakes. It's a high temp grease made for this application. I prefer synthetic, but like any oil thread, tastes vary. A little goes a long way. I've been using this for decades - Sta-Lube synthetic brake grease.
Like Chris mentioned, I lightly lube the axles with normal grease to prevent corrosion. I have seen corrosion on axles, even living in the desert on bikes that no one gave any attention to and especially that didn't get the wheels pulled very often, (like years apart).
I don't think your brake drag is significant, but some maintenance is never a bad thing. Boris outlined an excellent and thorough method. The only difference in my process is that I use a special pair of pliers that spreads things and a flat aluminum bar to spread/ push the pistons back in. I have many times seen a ring of crud around the base of the pistons. And I've seen a ring of corrosion on bikes that never got the brake fluid changed in several years too.
The single biggest mistake I've seen people do when cleaning brake calipers is to use a wire brush on the pistons and damage the surface finish. Stick with the toothbrush. If you need some help on stubborn crud and the brake cleaner isn't helping, use brake fluid to soak the area a bit, then go after it again with the toothbrush.
My crusty old tube of synthetic brake grease.
Last edited:
Boris
Well-Known Member
Good call Eric, re ventilation. Brake Cleaner really isn’t something you want to be breathing in.