How Do I Remove a Broken Spark plug on a 2012 Super Tenere?

EricV

Riding, farkling, riding...
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Thanks for coming back and giving us the end game report. :D Stick around and share more stuff. We have a great community and you have provided an experience that others will benefit from down the road. Don't be shy about telling us where you went or what you did to your Super Ten, play the tag game, etc. The more involved our members are, the more value this forum has to everyone.

Like it or not, you're one of us now. We share your pain and your triumphs. ;)
 

Tenere man

Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2019
Messages
56
Location
Selby, Near York, England, UK.
just curious, did they manage to get the head off the block with it still in situ in the frame ?
Only asking, god forbid, it ever where to happen to any other Tenere owner.
Its good that your now back on the road, with your pride and joy, enjoy yourself, and ride safe, eh.
 
R

RonH

Guest
I never use antiseize on anything, but if you do, do as Chris says and keep torque to low level. Putting a plug in dry, follow torque specs in the manual, use a torque wrench you can trust, chances of problems are minimal.
 
B

ballisticexchris

Guest
I never use antiseize on anything, but if you do, do as Chris says and keep torque to low level. Putting a plug in dry, follow torque specs in the manual, use a torque wrench you can trust, chances of problems are minimal.
I pretty much use NeverSeeze whenever any dissimilar metal combinations are mated. And also in high temp applications. It messes with torque values so yes you have to be careful for sure.
 

Scoti49

Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2019
Messages
33
How Do I Remove a Broken Spark plug on a 2012 Super Tenere ?

Same as you would for any other year model Super Ten ...........................................................sorry
 

mike25

Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Messages
34
Location
michigan
Has anyone here actually removed, and replaced a cylinder head with the engine still in the frame?
 

Squibb

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Joined
Aug 10, 2014
Messages
1,067
Location
Bedford, UK
I heard of a similar case on another forum here in the UK, a late Gen1 S10. The collective wondered whether it was another example of fake NGK spark plugs, but that's another story. Turned out that whoever had changed the plugs last time had omitted to torque them down - 3 were just hand tight, as we assume was the the 4th that broke & was seized in place due to corrosion as good old h2o had been leaking past the coil stick seal. The owner fixed it with a head-off job for safety sake. I can't recall whether the coil stick was salvageable - probably not.
 

Treadb88

New Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2020
Messages
12
Location
Richmond, VA
I just purchased a used 2012 Super Tenere, my first Super Ten, this week with 30K miles. I was excited to do some maintenance before an upcoming trip to Florida from Virginia and was awaiting my DMV tags. Two days after the purchase, l replaced the oil, filter, shaft drive fluid, and cleaned the K&N air filter, as well as the bike in general. Then I opted to replace the 4 plugs that were two years Old with 12k miles since last plug change.

I started with the far left plug which removed easily but had some corrosion around the hex nut. The rest were in good condition, no corrosion around the hex nut, and had nice tan coloration around the insulation at the tip.

I started to install the first plug on the front far left port.

I used a torque wrench set to 13Nm to install the first plug and managed to shear off the plug casing in the cylinder. I had To use adapters with torque wrench and this led to over tightening the plug. luckily, the insulation didn’t break off.
IMG_0862.JPG
As I pulled out the plug minus its casing that remained stuck in the cylinder, I searched this site and discovered this similar posting.

My heart sank when I read the estimates of $2500, etc. I decided to go all in and try and remove the casing. This was my first such experience with a sheared off plug casing in the cylinder head port. I called my stepdad who had rebuilt airplane engines in the past and he walked me through a recommended process.

I used the following to undertake the task:

Spiral Easy out #5 that I attached to a 9/32nds Socket (12 point and 3/8 inch). I used a hammer to drive it onto the easy out's square base. I then attached it to a six inch extension and had to use 1 inch adapter to get the right height to use a ratchet (I would try a square easy out in the future)
3:8 extension 10mm 12 point socket and #5 easy out.JPG
It was difficult to align the tool in the center of the casing but after six attempts of patiently turning the ratchet ever so slowly to align it as best as I could in that tight space, it finally bit into the spark plug casing and extracted it from the cylinder plug port.

However, after the casing came out, it was scored deeply at the tip and all the way up one side. I suspected that I may have scored the port threads in the cylinder head and thus decided to use a 10mm x 150 thread chaser to clean the threads in the port. All I was thinking is this was either going to be a great success or end up in an even more expensive mechanic repair bill!
Plug casing scored length.JPGPlug casing scored tip.JPG
I used a 1/4 inch driver type handle, a 10mm 12 point socket driven onto the 10 mm x 150 Spiral Thread Chaser. I hammered the 10mm socket onto the 10mm x 150 Thread chaser with a hammer with several light taps. It was on fairly snug and appeared to be solid enough to do the job.
Screw Driver 1:4 inch with thread chaser.JPG
It took a half dozen attempts to get the tool aligned in the cylinder spark plug port. I started the rethreading effort and felt solid resistance - not a good feeling. I could not keep it perfectly aligned throughout the process and was concerned that it may not fix the problem but add more damage to the threads. I continued using a 3/8 inch ratchet and adapter until I got to a point the resistance increased more and then stopped and then decided to back it out. The thread chaser didn't want to back out using the ratchet and I switched to a driver setup (pictured) and it took several different adjustments on the angle of the 1/4 inch driver before I could finally back out the thread chaser which was still attached to the socket.

I then fashioned several 1/2 inch diameter to 1/4 inch diameter clear tubing to a shop vac to vacuum out any shavings that may have dropped into the cylinder head.
Vacuum with adapters.JPG
I used this to vacuum out the cylinder head as best as possible for any shavings that may have dropped into the cylinder head.

I reinserted the new plug using a magnetic swivel 5/8 inch spark plug socket with extension by hand but had to resort to 3/8 inch ratchet to get it started. It then went in easily and seated. I then gave it a 1/4 turn more vice using the Torque wrench - I did not want a repeat.
Swivel Socket 5:8 magnetic.JPG

The rest of the plugs installed with no issue. I used anti seize and 1/4 turn past seating the plugs based on above recommendation.

I will get the bike back together later this week and see whether or not the repair to my mistake worked. Plus I will be able to actually ride it!
 
Last edited:
B

ballisticexchris

Guest
Great job on the repair Sir! In the future try using a spiral flute tap when going into a blind hole such as a spark plug. This way the chips will not fall into the hole.
 

magic

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2015
Messages
747
Location
WISCONSIN
I just purchased a used 2012 Super Tenere, my first Super Ten, this week with 30K miles. I was excited to do some maintenance before an upcoming trip to Florida from Virginia and was awaiting my DMV tags. Two days after the purchase, l replaced the oil, filter, shaft drive fluid, and cleaned the K&N air filter, as well as the bike in general. Then I opted to replace the 4 plugs that were two years Old with 12k miles since last plug change.

I started with the far left plug which removed easily but had some corrosion around the hex nut. The rest were in good condition, no corrosion around the hex nut, and had nice tan coloration around the insulation at the tip.

I started to install the first plug on the front far left port.

I used a torque wrench set to 13Nm to install the first plug and managed to shear off the plug casing in the cylinder. I had To use adapters with torque wrench and this led to over tightening the plug. luckily, the insulation didn’t break off.
View attachment 70408
As I pulled out the plug minus its casing that remained stuck in the cylinder, I searched this site and discovered this similar posting.

My heart sank when I read the estimates of $2500, etc. I decided to go all in and try and remove the casing. This was my first such experience with a sheared off plug casing in the cylinder head port. I called my stepdad who had rebuilt airplane engines in the past and he walked me through a recommended process.

I used the following to undertake the task:

Spiral Easy out #5 that I attached to a 9/32nds Socket (12 point and 3/8 inch). I used a hammer to drive it onto the easy out's square base. I then attached it to a six inch extension and had to use 1 inch adapter to get the right height to use a ratchet (I would try a square easy out in the future)
View attachment 70415
It was difficult to align the tool in the center of the casing but after six attempts of patiently turning the ratchet ever so slowly to align it as best as I could in that tight space, it finally bit into the spark plug casing and extracted it from the cylinder plug port.

However, after the casing came out, it was scored deeply at the tip and all the way up one side. I suspected that I may have scored the port threads in the cylinder head and thus decided to use a 10mm x 150 thread chaser to clean the threads in the port. All I was thinking is this was either going to be a great success or end up in an even more expensive mechanic repair bill!
View attachment 70412View attachment 70413
I used a 1/4 inch driver type handle, a 10mm 12 point socket driven onto the 10 mm x 150 Spiral Thread Chaser. I hammered the 10mm socket onto the 10mm x 150 Thread chaser with a hammer with several light taps. It was on fairly snug and appeared to be solid enough to do the job.
View attachment 70414
It took a half dozen attempts to get the tool aligned in the cylinder spark plug port. I started the rethreading effort and felt solid resistance - not a good feeling. I could not keep it perfectly aligned throughout the process and was concerned that it may not fix the problem but add more damage to the threads. I continued using a 3/8 inch ratchet and adapter until I got to a point the resistance increased more and then stopped and then decided to back it out. The thread chaser didn't want to back out using the ratchet and I switched to a driver setup (pictured) and it took several different adjustments on the angle of the 1/4 inch driver before I could finally back out the thread chaser which was still attached to the socket.

I then fashioned several 1/2 inch diameter to 1/4 inch diameter clear tubing to a shop vac to vacuum out any shavings that may have dropped into the cylinder head.
View attachment 70416
I used this to vacuum out the cylinder head as best as possible for any shavings that may have dropped into the cylinder head.

I reinserted the new plug using a magnetic swivel 5/8 inch spark plug socket with extension by hand but had to resort to 3/8 inch ratchet to get it started. It then went in easily and seated. I then gave it a 1/4 turn more vice using the Torque wrench - I did not want a repeat.
View attachment 70417

The rest of the plugs installed with no issue. I used anti seize and 1/4 turn past seating the plugs based on above recommendation.

I will get the bike back together later this week and see whether or not the repair to my mistake worked. Plus I will be able to actually ride it!
I hate to rain on your parade, but what you have pictured is not a thread chaser. It's a taper tap and it's the wrong thread pitch. The spark plug has a M10x1.00 thread. Your problems may not be over.
 

Treadb88

New Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2020
Messages
12
Location
Richmond, VA
Tenman,
Thanks for the correct pitch - yes my problems may be far from over...And thank you for the feedback.
 
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