Homemade MotoJack for Lifting Dropped Bike
- Thread starter holligl
- Start date
gunslinger_006
Well-Known Member
Here is one account i just found from the reviews on eastbound, a shop in the nederlands that sells a sweet jack like this one:
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That is a really nice compact lift kit, but I'm too cheap to pay over $200. What is the weight on it? I am still looking for a decent bead breaker. For the rear I use the side stand, but the front is tougher for me without a proper breaker. Fortunately the front lasts me a lot longer.That's a pretty slick system you fabricated up. I purchased mine from a small shop in the Netherlands. I ended up getting some modular tire tools as well. Well worth the money for those that want a plug and play unit. Works like a charm, is super compact, and super quick setup.
MotoWinch
Problems lifting a heavy tourer or Adventure bike? The ultralight and compact MotoWinch Motorcycle jack (4lbs/1.7kg) makes lifting your bike really easy!eastbound.shop
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Kruzzin5
Well-Known Member
In the video, is that a center stand dolly near the bike? Did you make that too?I made this from some 1" aluminum tubing and 90° angles and some slightly larger square punched steel. Bolts together. The crank is from a medium weight strap clamp. Total wt is 4lbs, max length 15". The original guy quit making them. There maybe another commercial version >$200 and twice as heavy. Guessing my parts were about $50 or less.
Here are the pictures:
Packed up in a couple cases I made. Obviously needs to be accessible from either side in case of a drop.
Showing the parts. The short Au tube is the middle, so the packed length can be minimized. The Au angles sandwich the 3 tubes and provide rigidity. The crank is permanently bolted to the steel square tube. The foot is also steel with some old tire treads attached. You might get by with something smaller, but I wanted it to work in sand if necessary.
Assembled, ~38" lift
Detail of the crank head. I wanted to push down to lift and maximize the lift height, so the crank needed to be on the opposite side with the strap running up and over. A couple pins and bends of the square steel pipe to keep it smooth. The crank is bolted to the steel with elevater bolts, top one to not interfere with the strap, and the bottom to allow the Au tube to slide in. If you have a welder that would have been easier. I ground the one bolt to maximize the strap capacity.
To maximize the lift, you can't let the strap double too much in the crank, just enough to get a good anchor. I have a loop and cam lock for attaching to the bike and eliminate slack in the lift strap before jacking.
In action, Hopefully it will display and play:
PhilPhilippines
Well-Known Member
Onto Rescue Services right now. HANG IN THERE!!
Kruzzin5
Well-Known Member
Looks good. Detail on how you made it?
I used scraps from an old roof rack and two steel plates. If I were building from scratch, I would still use the HF dolly (find a 20% off coupon). Strip off the jack and rollers. Use a ~15-18" piece of channel iron for the base plate. Use 4 elevator bolts to mount the channel iron to the dolly using good solid spacers to get the plate low to the floor without dragging. The center stand kick has to clear the out side of the dolly. Sorry, not home so I can't take pictures.
Word of advise, roll backwards whenever possible. Forward with care. If the dolly catches going forward with momentum the bike will come off the center stand. Not pretty.
Also note, the HF dolly has no locking castors, but hasn't been an issue for me. Takes a little learning to get it on and off, as you are higher than normal. It does work well to get the bike into a corner for storage.
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BaileyRam
Member
I just picked up the materials to make one of these. I'm thinking about doing 3 x ~12-inch sections of the square aluminum tubing so it'll fit in my top box. I can also then see if two sections together (somewhere between 24 and 30 inches of assembled height) would be tall enough. The extra height of the 3rd section might be really helpful though. I like having options...
Materials cost was about $140. I expect to have a good amount of the steel punched tubing left over, and that was the most expensive bit, but otherwise I expect to use pretty much all of the rest of the bits...
In case it's helpful to anyone else, here's my parts list:
36" - 1" square aluminum tubing
48" - 90 degree aluminum angle
36" - 1.25" punched steel square tubing
10 - M8 x 1.25 x 45mm socket cap screws
10 - M8 x 1.25 wingnuts
20 - M8 washers
I picked up a couple of bolts to attach the ratchet handle and one bolt with a spacer for the ratchet cord to run over. I don't have those sizes handy.
Materials cost was about $140. I expect to have a good amount of the steel punched tubing left over, and that was the most expensive bit, but otherwise I expect to use pretty much all of the rest of the bits...
In case it's helpful to anyone else, here's my parts list:
36" - 1" square aluminum tubing
48" - 90 degree aluminum angle
36" - 1.25" punched steel square tubing
10 - M8 x 1.25 x 45mm socket cap screws
10 - M8 x 1.25 wingnuts
20 - M8 washers
I picked up a couple of bolts to attach the ratchet handle and one bolt with a spacer for the ratchet cord to run over. I don't have those sizes handy.
I recently modified mine to simplify and speed assembly of the post. A little more bulky packed but simply slips together with no bolts to mess with. Permanently assembled the middle section and reinforced with steel bands JB welded in place. Assembles very quickly. No change to anything else.
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